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"PATCH! He's gotta move in..."
Usually I keep myself actually
rather in the designer segment, but there are some niche houses, where I also find. As there would be bspw. Creed and now - for a short time - also Frédéric Malle.
The Malle fragrances tested so far by me liked me namely all good to very good. And with this Monsieur. I have recently discovered one, in which I fell in love in fact immediately shock.
Frédéric Malle, a French author and businessman, founded
at the turn of the millennium 'Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle'. In the same year, they already brought nine(!) Fragrances on the market, including 'Musc Ravageur', until today probably one of the most popular perfumes from the house.
He (Malle) himself sees his company as a kind of publisher, where the perfumers can develop freely and without any restrictions - that is, with all creative freedom - to pursue their creations.
The concept is that the fragrances are distributed under the name of the respective perfumer. World-renowned people such as J. C. Ellena, Dominique Ropion, or Pierre Bourdon, to name just a few, already worked for this company.
Behind the creation of this Monsieur's. however, is Bruno Jovanovic, a perfumer of the
IFF (International Flavors&Fragrances Inc.), a company based in New York and one of the world's largest manufacturers of fragrances and flavors.
In the industry, Jovanovic is considered an intellectual proponent of Kant's theory that "beautiful is that which is universally pleasing without a term" and is said to have decided as a child in a department store that he would one day enter the world of perfumery.
And I personally am very happy that he has taken this path. Because probably otherwise I would never have known this fantastic fragrance...
In a very interesting interview for Noseparis, a BeautyConcept store based in the French capital, Jovanovic called patchouli his favorite note ever (source:
This fragrance here is said to contain just an unusually high concentration (50%) of that ingredient. And I think if I secretly consider the 'Givenchy Gentleman Original EdT 1974' as my signature scent (even if I don't list it as such here), it's no coincidence if I also say that patchouli is probably my favorite note among all.
And this Monsieur. is indeed a real patchouli bomb, but only at the beginning...
He starts namely very intense and patchouliastig; who does not like this note, it will be difficult to like the fragrance. I claim that now simply times. But what I find so impressive about this is its noble, unique and multi-faceted development.
As I mentioned earlier, it opens with a full blast of tart, woody, dark and very earthy top notes that remind me of my "signature" mentioned earlier. However, I feel them at this Monsieur. even a tad more intense, which I find but incredibly attractive. Especially since it is equipped here also with a very fine perceptible tangerine note, which gives it a fresh touch, but this evaporates already after a few minutes.
But what happens afterwards so in the further course, is simply brilliant, I think. After about 1-2h this initial patch hammer retreats, becomes softer and mixes with a rum note that is clearly perceptible to me, but still surrounded by various woody and slightly spicy notes. The fragrance evolves (for my nose) consequently to a woody-spicy piney cedar smell, which just pulls a rum accord with it.
Towards the base, the woody-spicy nuances so slowly but surely more and more leave the stage and it joins the rum note a pleasantly sensual and unobtrusive mix of vanilla amber. These form the soft-sensual finish, in which one can only - if at all - very minimal woody undertones catch.
On my skin, it has a very good durability with about 7-8h. In the first 2h I perceive him on myself clearly, before he then withdraws somewhat and for the rest of the time
is still close to smell.
Except in summer I think you can wear it at any time of year. But I would personally recommend a little less sprays, because he can be just at the beginning possibly too strong (in my case it would be here 3-4, otherwise I belong namely rather to the so-called. Vielsprühern).
I would call Monsieur. a neo-classic, which creates it mMn in a very sophisticated way, classic ingredients (in this case just patchouli) with "modern" ingredients aufpeppen.
For all patchouli lovers I can recommend it without hesitation, it will make your heart beat faster.
Even though Jovanovic has already produced a fragrance for F. Malle in cooperation with the Belgian fashion designer Dries van Noten, Monsieur. is considered to be his very first creation.
The naming, by the way, stems from the fact that Jovanovic was/is always just called "Monsieur" by Malle (so uncomplicated it can be sometimes).
My thanks go to JonasP1, who has made it possible for me through his sample to discover this fascinating hammer fragrance and he thereby got on my WL.
With me it's made immediately "patch" and I was immediately after the first test clear: "The must move in..."
Thanks for reading!