Noir Epices - Black Spices
Noir Epices is one of Frederic Malle's pioneers. It was published back in 2000 with the first line-up of the EDPFM collection.
It is interesting that along with Noir Epices from Michel Roudnitska, Le Parfum De Therese made by his father Edmond Roudnitska (made for his wife and Michel's mother - Therese) also came out in the same line-up.
Old school perfume made with the idea of being and remaining old school. I believe that this fragrance could be the "old lady smell" for newcomers of our dear hobby, as well as for the audience that did not try too many Frederic Malle fragrances or niche in general.
The opening is based on a very realistic sweet orange. Kind of more syrupy and bitter-sweet than a fresh orange as we can find in summer/citrus fragrances. In addition to a strong dose of orange, there is a good amount of black pepper, cinnamon and a lot of slightly animal cloves. There is also a gentle touch of geranium to soothe the blow of black spices.
Throughout its life, this perfume has a thick creamy, slightly bitter note of nutmeg, which in some moments actually gives the impression of a regular full-fat walnut.
After 30-60 minutes, we'll have a well rounded fragrance full of spices, orange, with calming geranium on a woody base of sandalwood and a modest dose of patchouli.
It's a very interesting experience, never linear and never boring to follow from start to finish and special enough so that people will always ask you what it is...
It's unisex, do not be afraid to wear it!
I have to mention that I managed to get an older/vintage bottle of Noir Epices (80% formula) from the time before FM was sold to Estee Lauder, so my version is not reformulated, and the spices are a bit stronger because IFRA approved them back then, especially cinnamon and cloves. I have also tried a new version several times, which is almost identical after 45-60 minutes. The main difference is in that stronger and more animalic opening. Don't worry about the production date of the bottle - every bottle is great and the performance is the same.
Same IFRA regulations back in 2015/2016 toned down Musc Ravageur (some would say destroyed, although that is not true) because of musk, cinnamon and cloves bans.
Longevity is great, as with most FM perfumes. 12h + on my skin, then a couple of more as a skin scent.
The projection is solid... it's around you all the time. I'm pretty happy with how it works under all conditions. Although you can link Noir Epices with a mulled wine, and therefore with the winter - it works great on hotter days because of orange and geranium. It's great for all seasons and for almost all occasions.
Noir Epices personally knocked me off my feet when it was over 30° Celsius while I was with my wife in Paris, and because of that, in my book - Noir Epices is for nice weather, good days and even better memories.
A rose without a rose
You're not a fan of spicy and dark rose fragrances? Even though Malle is famous for his spicy and oriental roses - there is a fresh and green rose offering from the house of Frederic Malle! It is actually a rose without a rose. Geranium will...
Very interesting ''old school'' perfume. Frederic Malle asked JC Ellena for a stronger and more intense version of Angelique Sous La Pluie. JCE worked on the formula for several months and he almost finished it - however at the time he signed the contract...