The Whole Rose
It was at a Frederick Malle counter that I first learned Malle doesn't make his own scents. Under his Editions de Parfums, begun in 2000, he wanted "the world’s greatest noses [to] compose exclusive, creative fragrances that would be sold under their creator’s names" and the Frederick Malle brand. If Une Rose is any sign, Malle succeeded. It's a simply stunning rose solifore in which you can smell not only the rose, but the stem, the leaves, the damp soil in which it grew. I'm not big on castoreum, but I love the note in this. Karanal? Hadn't encountered it before. It's said to be "dry, ambery, oily, woody, and there is a certain greenness to it" It works. I have some ISO-E-Super, also an ambery note, and thought I didn't prefer it. I adore it here. Not sure exactly what Blue chamomile smells like. The geranium and wine sediment are easy to detect in the top note, so Blue chamomile must lend the airiness. The star, of course, is the Turkish rose, no doubt the famous Rosa Damascena grown in fields that supply most of the world's rose oil. Patchouli and Vetiver add familiar woody and green notes, but as in any great perfume, the whole substantially exceeds the parts in Une Rose. It is a potent fragrance, long on projection, longevity and sillage. Not a shy, retiring flower in the least, beautifully it announces its wearers presence: enter rose in its magnificence. I loved it on first sniff then planned a visit to a Malle counter to see what else glorious he had up his sleeve. That's how I found En Passant, but I'll discuss that elsewhere. For now, applause to Une Rose.