Rose & Cuir by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
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Rose & Cuir is a new perfume by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle for women and was released in 2019. The scent is floral-green. It is being marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBourbon geranium, Blackcurrant, Nepalese Sichuan pepper
Heart Notes Heart NotesVetiver, Cedarwood
Base Notes Base NotesLeather

Ratings

Scent

8.3 (9 Ratings)

Longevity

7.9 (9 Ratings)

Sillage

7.4 (9 Ratings)

Bottle

8.1 (14 Ratings)
Submitted by OPomone, last update on 20.09.2019
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Reviews

10.0/10
Moenti

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Moenti
Moenti
Greatly helpful Review    13
Hard to fathom magic!
The first thing that comes to my mind is a warmth that is by no means sweet. (Where's the rose? Where's the leather?) - Then there's something cool-woody, yes: Rosengeranie, I'm thinking Geranium pour Monsieur, but this is much more complex. What was Ellena doing?! I can't get away from my arm. I "wait" in vain for the leather, but it is probably what makes this sublime scent earthy and so round and attractive. Just as you don't experience the oud as an oud in M7. I'm trying to associate a target group. Men. More like men. Not quite young, distinguished and very fashion-conscious, if not slightly eccentric. Unfortunately, the least of it applies to me - so what? "Rose & Cuir" Still gets at the top of the wish list ;-)
6 Replies
10.0 8.0 8.0 8.5/10
Rivegauche

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Rivegauche
Rivegauche
Greatly helpful Review    26
Un Jardin pour Frédéric?
Right at the front, Rose & Cuir is neither really rose-heavy nor really concentrated on leather notes.
The top note opens tingling sour, fruity & fresh with grapefruit & black currant, so that one can immediately recognise Jean-Claude Ellena's style to continue with a rather reserved heart note of rosy germanium, accompanied by stony & herbaceous green facets, where pepper seems to contribute a fine and somewhat reserved spiciness. Elegant! At this point I feel for the first time tempted to call the fragrance "Un Jardin pour Frédéric", because everything from the famous universe of Ellena's by Hermès seems present: naturalism, airiness & reduction with fruity, fresh and woody, spicy & green facets...and not only the black double looped leather bracelet in the video on the Frédéric Malle website immediately gave me the feeling "Hermès reloaded."

The base only slowly reveals the typical leathery facets of Isobutyl Quinoline, the synthetic substitute for once natural birch tar, to achieve the scent of leather in perfumes. I perceive Isobutyl Quinoline here as wonderfully bitter brown and smoky woody. Actually I feel a bit reminded of Aramis, Bandit & Cabochard here...but more like a vague reminder of the past times of Jazz Age, as you can read on the Frédéric Malle website...here apparently still in the base flanked by green earthy woody vetiver and certainly some musk to enhance the durability. Often I have a problem with the for me rough leather notes of Aramis and his cronies, I am more inclined to the softer leather notes à la Cuir de Russie, Cuir Cannage or also the wonderful Mont de Narcisse. The airiness of the fragrance throughout and the overall sparing use of the leather note "like a brushstroke" help to turn this aversion into affirmative approval.

And even now I think it's a "Jardin pour Frédéric"? The fragrance, with its short and precise formula, clearly bears the signature of Ellena, but the execution is clearly Frédéric Malle. Fréderic Malle seems to have created his perfumes like Vetiver Extraordinaire, Bigarade, Geranium pour Monsieur, Monsieur. and last but not least French Lover for himself, because he wears them himself as he said. Rose & Cuir shows a consistently clear and cool freshness with naturalistic green leathery and floral contours, is durable & present (not very Ellena), is grown up and absolutely unisex, quite cool, it combines modernity with timeless classicism (sounds like Bauhaus, if I think about it further) and is far away from any cosy cuddliness, which wouldn't even fit to Monsieur Malle himself...and scents of this character are also fortunately almost in vain in the Mallschen fragrance portfolio.

Since Rose & Cuir neither reveals really dominant rose facets nor has a really strong leather character, it seems to be labelled almost wrong. Even those who expected a delicate rosy fragrance with warm leather notes will be disappointed. But if you're looking for a friendly markance, you might find it here.
12 Replies
8.0 7.0 8.0 8.0/10
Profumo

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Profumo
Profumo
Greatly helpful Review    28
Rosy geranium, yes, but where's the leather?
Actually, the rose is quite well represented in the catalogue of the Edition de Parfums: 'Une Rose', a full, juicy rose solflor; 'Portrait of a Lady', a rose worn by patchouli and frankincense, and - no rose, but the scent of Geranium is closely related to it - 'Geranium pour Monsieur', the rosy-minute freshness for men.

Now 'Rose & Cuir', a fragrance that marks Jean-Claude Ellena's return to the circle of perfumers around Frédéric Malle. Angélique sous la Pluie', 'L'Eau d'Hiver', and the two Bigarade fragrances are due to him, 'Rose & Cuir' fits in seamlessly: a typical Ellena, through and through.
As already with 'Cologne Bigarde', respectively 'Bigarade Concentrée' he manages to let his central note shine in such a way, only slightly accentuated by fresh, green and discreet light-woody accents, that you don't want to stop sniffing at the scented skin area.
The rose here (actually no rose, but rose geranium again, as in 'Geranium pour Monsieur') smells so natural - as if you were holding your head directly in a bouquet of blooming geraniums.
Wow, that's great, I love the smell of geranium!

But, and this must unfortunately also be said: the fragrance does not give off much more. Anyone who thinks that leather, the supposed second protagonist of this fragrance, has a say in the matter is unfortunately mistaken. Leathery nuances are there, yes, they also appear more clearly in the course of the fragrance, but ultimately they hardly play a greater role than the finely chiselled traces of vetiver and cedar.

Frédéric Malle writes about it: "...vetiver and cedar forms an earthy bed of dark, mysterious leather with IsoButyl Quinoline at the center - an intensely bitter molecule, largely forgotten since its use in the daring perfumery of the Jazz Age."

With IsoButyl Quinoline Germaine Cellier has enriched her legendary 'Bandit' and in her fragrance you can still experience it today in all its bitter-leathery facets - but in 'Rose & Cuir'? Well, well, there it is, and right at the end of the fragrance process I actually smell it quite clearly. But the first three to four hours I have always wondered: where please is the 'Cuir'?

I think you shouldn't make the mistake - and I probably did - of assuming that the leather notes à la 'Knize Ten' or their reinterpretation, Marc-Antoine Barrois' 'B683' are overly clear and penetrating. Rose & Cuir' simply doesn't wait up with them, he is too committed to the flowering freshness of the geranium.

Another fragrance I had to think of when I read that Malle was launching a fragrance with such a name was good old 'Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme'. Also here, a strong rose surrounded by rich leather notes - but in what x-fold potency!
Well, I might have known: Jean-Claude Ellena is, and remains, as it seems, the master of sublimation. Under his hands everything is much finer, airier and more transparent without losing presence.
So also here: the rose, respectively the geranium, is far away from the full heaviness of the rose in Fléchiers 'Une Rose', as well as the leather, which only constitutes the breath of intensity of the leathery funds of Bandit/VC&ApH.

Probably you have to resort to an old scent by Jean-Claude Ellena herself to find a comparably constructed and composed scent: 'Rose Poivrée' for The Differnt Company. Also here a wonderfully naturally fresh rose chord, characterized by slightly peppery nuances, but above all by a few hearty drops of civet secretion. Later, the proportion of civet was significantly reduced, roughly to the level that 'Rose & Cuir' uses leather today.

So far, so good. One should just know that 'Rose & Cuir' is a typical Ellena fragrance. My last acquired scent from the Editons de Parfums was 'Music for a while': also a scent that focuses on two protagonists - lavender and pineapple - but so lushly and richly staged that you miss hearing and seeing.

No, Rose & Cuir is not such a caliber, of course. But a wonderfully radiant, rosy Geranium scent, with finely sublimated leathery base, for men as well as women, best suited and blessed with really good durability and pleasant projection power - that's already!
9 Replies

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