06/29/2023
Elysium
808 Reviews
Elysium
Helpful Review
7
Steadfastly Vibrant
I was very, very curious to discover this fragrance, and I immediately added it to the watch list when it appeared among the novelties a long time ago. I know the Emanuel Ungaro brand well and am fond of the old compositions. In the 90s, unfortunately, I was lucky enough to use Ungaro pour L'Homme II Eau de Toilette, discontinued today. A very unconventional perfume, opulent, rich, with glorious notes of carnation and civet that in modern perfumery are now extinct or are hardly used anymore. Besides this jewel, I still own Ungaro pour L'Homme III Parfum Aromatique, Ungaro pour L'Homme III Eau de Toilette, the magnificent Ungaro pour L'Homme III Oud, and some U-shaped bottles like Man, Blue Ice, and Silver. And just today, I was lucky enough to find this perfume at a ridiculous price for the 100ml format, just €20. The test on the paper strip convinced me on the fly, nothing disruptive or innovative; Dior Homme and Valentino Uomo have explored this stage long before, a reinterpretation of a classic olfactory style in a modern way, but the test on the skin has engraved so much on the purchase, very pleasant, comfortable, and intriguing. Just to anticipate my impressions, the essence is based on the triplet composed of black pepper-iris-tonka, although the latter is not mentioned in the olfactory pyramid. And I would like to say the bottle, a sandblasted blue denim glass with a matt finish. To the touch, it is as if it were made from porous stones.
So, what does this perfume tell us? The first nuances are rich in spice. Black pepper is the master of the opening; it expands and occupies all the air that surrounds me, deep, penetrating. Without falling into vulgarity, I dare say that this peppery explosion is similar to an orgasm, intense but fleeting, ephemeral. The powdery aspects of the iris emerge prematurely on my skin and most likely on my nose.
In contrast, the fruity notes of the velvety peach and the citrus ones of the bergamot are shy, almost imperceptible, perhaps obscured by the spices and rhizomes. I don't get any syrupy or pulpy peach. I don't define the beginning as a fruity or citric accord, but definitely spicy and powdery.
In no uncertain terms, the presence of the Florentine iris announces the heart's entrance. Now the powdery and powdery aspects of the rhizome dominate the scene without that nuance reminiscent of the carrot. Supporting this noble flower are the silvery leaves of sage intertwined with violet-lavender flowers. The whole look fougére. If the opening turns out to be fleeting, the central part remains stable for a few hours before heading toward the final act.
I realize that L'Homme has reached its finale when a strange sweetness takes possession of the scene. Nothing to do with exotic vanilla but something toasty similar to Tonka. The sweetness is proportionate, not from annoying sensations. It is balanced by a pinch of patchouli that dirties the dry-down just enough, together with a woody nuance provided by cedar wood, whose dry and resinous sawdust nuances are unmistakable. Now I feel the leathery accord, very smooth like the one generated by birch bark, not at all animal or rough. In all phases, L'Homme gives me pleasurable, pleasant and relaxing sensations. Never too pushy, pushy, or arrogant.
If I had to sum up L'Homme with a few adjectives, it would be earthy, woody, powdery, spicy and slightly leathery, with a fougére tendency. Miserably underrated, a little gem I find ideal for mid-seasons, it can work well on summer evenings outdoors, while it is a bit weak to face the cold winter months. Preferable during the day and discreet for the office, its performance is below average, with moderate projection but great longevity. However, I think it is sufficient to cover almost a whole day. Suppose you like the leathery and powdery genre of Valentino Uomo Intense and Dior Homme Original (2011) Eau de Toilette. In that case, you should consider this cheap, high-quality alternative without synthetic splinters. It's so inexpensive and not on anyone's radar.
I'm formulating my impressions on a bottle I've owned since June 2023 (BC 2227901).
-Elysium
So, what does this perfume tell us? The first nuances are rich in spice. Black pepper is the master of the opening; it expands and occupies all the air that surrounds me, deep, penetrating. Without falling into vulgarity, I dare say that this peppery explosion is similar to an orgasm, intense but fleeting, ephemeral. The powdery aspects of the iris emerge prematurely on my skin and most likely on my nose.
In contrast, the fruity notes of the velvety peach and the citrus ones of the bergamot are shy, almost imperceptible, perhaps obscured by the spices and rhizomes. I don't get any syrupy or pulpy peach. I don't define the beginning as a fruity or citric accord, but definitely spicy and powdery.
In no uncertain terms, the presence of the Florentine iris announces the heart's entrance. Now the powdery and powdery aspects of the rhizome dominate the scene without that nuance reminiscent of the carrot. Supporting this noble flower are the silvery leaves of sage intertwined with violet-lavender flowers. The whole look fougére. If the opening turns out to be fleeting, the central part remains stable for a few hours before heading toward the final act.
I realize that L'Homme has reached its finale when a strange sweetness takes possession of the scene. Nothing to do with exotic vanilla but something toasty similar to Tonka. The sweetness is proportionate, not from annoying sensations. It is balanced by a pinch of patchouli that dirties the dry-down just enough, together with a woody nuance provided by cedar wood, whose dry and resinous sawdust nuances are unmistakable. Now I feel the leathery accord, very smooth like the one generated by birch bark, not at all animal or rough. In all phases, L'Homme gives me pleasurable, pleasant and relaxing sensations. Never too pushy, pushy, or arrogant.
If I had to sum up L'Homme with a few adjectives, it would be earthy, woody, powdery, spicy and slightly leathery, with a fougére tendency. Miserably underrated, a little gem I find ideal for mid-seasons, it can work well on summer evenings outdoors, while it is a bit weak to face the cold winter months. Preferable during the day and discreet for the office, its performance is below average, with moderate projection but great longevity. However, I think it is sufficient to cover almost a whole day. Suppose you like the leathery and powdery genre of Valentino Uomo Intense and Dior Homme Original (2011) Eau de Toilette. In that case, you should consider this cheap, high-quality alternative without synthetic splinters. It's so inexpensive and not on anyone's radar.
I'm formulating my impressions on a bottle I've owned since June 2023 (BC 2227901).
-Elysium