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Notes07/03/2018
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Meggi
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Meggi
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If you work a lot with Excel, you will occasionally come across funny formula names in the breathtaking possibilities of this program. RANGE.SHIFT is one such, because nothing is shifted at all, only a range of cells is addressed depending on a position.
But first to the fragrance: Restrained freshness, anything but a citrus blast. Relatively much green. In addition, essential oil as if a drop of eucalyptus or Japanese mint oil were involved. I think that is the source of the "clarity" of Italian Bergamot already diagnosed in the opening commentary. This also has some proximity to the oily from the citrus peel.
The restraint is of course not a shortcoming per se, it may arise from the effort not to shoot the whole powder right at the front, but to offer a certain continuity. Let's see...
Besides, I smell wood. Vetiver won't get me there, I'm betting on cedar. Soon a little bit of green spice is created in the background, a freshness prolonger from the herb corner, which unfolds a slightly soapy impression as it progresses. Again, it seems to me that there are some tensts involved. This is the keyword: after half an hour the bergamot has shrunk to its bare size. Only for a while does a trace of sugary sweetness conceal this fact, which carries in a latently sweet twist. Rosemary is fine with me, but far less spicy than green. Well, actually it has nothing to do with spices.
After about two hours, the fragrance has turned into a practically sillage-free, minimally acidic green body with a gently soapy-creamy-foamy flap, which darkens somewhat over the course of the day (and reveals a ladle of chemistry). Vetiver can now be better guessed upon request. I feel reminded of TDC's "Limon de Cordoza" in this respect. The latter, however, took the path of a gradual substitution of citrus peel by vetiver more consistently - which, in spite of all the pitiful projection comparable to Zegna, still gives him a small originality bonus.
Conclusion: One would have to SHIFT the entire RANGE of Italian Bergamot on the volume/durability scale a good deal upwards. The present behaviour is disappointing.
But first to the fragrance: Restrained freshness, anything but a citrus blast. Relatively much green. In addition, essential oil as if a drop of eucalyptus or Japanese mint oil were involved. I think that is the source of the "clarity" of Italian Bergamot already diagnosed in the opening commentary. This also has some proximity to the oily from the citrus peel.
The restraint is of course not a shortcoming per se, it may arise from the effort not to shoot the whole powder right at the front, but to offer a certain continuity. Let's see...
Besides, I smell wood. Vetiver won't get me there, I'm betting on cedar. Soon a little bit of green spice is created in the background, a freshness prolonger from the herb corner, which unfolds a slightly soapy impression as it progresses. Again, it seems to me that there are some tensts involved. This is the keyword: after half an hour the bergamot has shrunk to its bare size. Only for a while does a trace of sugary sweetness conceal this fact, which carries in a latently sweet twist. Rosemary is fine with me, but far less spicy than green. Well, actually it has nothing to do with spices.
After about two hours, the fragrance has turned into a practically sillage-free, minimally acidic green body with a gently soapy-creamy-foamy flap, which darkens somewhat over the course of the day (and reveals a ladle of chemistry). Vetiver can now be better guessed upon request. I feel reminded of TDC's "Limon de Cordoza" in this respect. The latter, however, took the path of a gradual substitution of citrus peel by vetiver more consistently - which, in spite of all the pitiful projection comparable to Zegna, still gives him a small originality bonus.
Conclusion: One would have to SHIFT the entire RANGE of Italian Bergamot on the volume/durability scale a good deal upwards. The present behaviour is disappointing.
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