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Jazzbob
Top Review
20
Synthetic in the best sense (but not only)
Pure natural fragrances often have the disadvantage of already seeming too dense - synthetics can help lighten them up, make them lighter. And then there is a wide world in between, as Akigalawood shows. The fragrance is fractionated from patchouli oil, removing its more grungy facets and ultimately creating a very different impression. Bois Impérial is heavily influenced by it and various synthetic components, so much so that - as many here have already noted - the comparison to Escentric Molecules suggests itself. The important difference is revealed in the fact that the latter often seem too soulless to me, while here the balancing act between synthetic and nature succeeds.
What I liked during the first tests, is the fact that the fragrance already seems rather simple, but I could still filter out each time different nuances, which I had not noticed before or hardly. To begin with, there is not only the combination of the citrusy freshness, which is neither too sharp nor too sweet, with the dry woodiness (1), which is present from beginning to end, but also a very subtle floral component (2). This doesn't make Bois Impérial seem floral, but it does add brightness and some richness that would otherwise be lacking. Green freshness fits in just as well, whereby the vetiver note does not come across at all classic-old-fashioned, as is sometimes the case.
(1) Ambrofix = Ambroxan: If you know Molecule 02, you know what I mean.
(2) Petalia: "rose-like with nuances of lily of the valley." I would have thought of Hedion next to it.
The fragrance seems therefore consistently bright and transparent, because no heavy components complement the base accord, but with Georgywood (= Iso E Super) and Akigalawood always maintain an airy texture. The latter note is difficult to describe, as it still has slightly earthy and green facets of patchouli, but just seems much lighter and cleaner. With Supræ of Aether (even drier) or Nisean of Parfums de Marly (darker, balsamic), for example, you can also perceive it well.
My girlfriend does not like the fragrance, by the way, because she immediately had the association with something pickled. Maybe that comes from the slight acidity and some spice. Now I feel the fragrance as a little softer than at the beginning, where I saw the dry-woody side as the most dominant. Possibly it needs some time to 'settle in'. For everyday wear, Bois Impérial is optimal as the longevity is really extremely good - especially on clothes. The sillage can also be easily underestimated and I have therefore rated it with 7, because you are not slain by the transparent effect of the fragrance, but he radiates at the same time relatively far.
Also, an important question with perfumes is how they make you feel when you wear them: Bois Impérial has on the one hand this light-hearted, universally wearable, on the other hand, the fragrance definitely has a mood-lifting effect
Thai basil
Grapefruit
Nepalese Sichuan pepper
Haitian vetiver
Petalia®
Indonesian patchouli
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