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10/31/2023
loewenherz
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Embers under the ashes
The worst thing, I once heard a wise person state, about growing old is the loss of friends. When those are gone who knew us when we were other than we are today, who can still bear witness to our lives and our defeats and victories, then we feel truly alone. When those are gone who have always been with us.
We need this. With people as with things, certainly including perfumes. It's fun to get to know new things and try out whether they can fit into our lives, perhaps make them more beautiful and richer. But we also need the ones we've always had. For those moments when it's more about remembering than dreaming. Such as Youth-Dew.
Youth-Dew is arguably the archetype of women's fragrance today - with a certain lack of empathy towards its lovers - now referred to as an 'old fragrance'. Perfume users who grew up with La Vie est Belle and with 1 Million may find it disturbing - after all, it tells of a time when perfumes were made so completely differently. Youth-Dew is an opulent floral oriental that roars over the sweet waters of the present like a thunderstorm, weighty, powerful, passionate. It plays virtuously on the keyboard of sepia-toned alto tones that were once girl tones seventy years ago and are now so much more woman than girl. In my commentary on the Eau de Parfum, I called him 'stunner'. That's what he is and yet also much more: memory and melancholy - and under the ashes of his years hot, red, never extinguished embers.
Conclusion: soon the last ones who were young with him will go. And while he may be the fragrance of bygone days from the present point of view, he still exists - and still celebrates life. Celebrates strength, sensuality and femininity. It made Estée Lauder - the ambitious and enterprising daughter of Eastern European immigrants from New York City, and later her company - famous, and the kitchen in which she mixed the first ointments a global corporation. But there are still those who can bear witness to his path, who were once young like him. Let's celebrate them.
We need this. With people as with things, certainly including perfumes. It's fun to get to know new things and try out whether they can fit into our lives, perhaps make them more beautiful and richer. But we also need the ones we've always had. For those moments when it's more about remembering than dreaming. Such as Youth-Dew.
Youth-Dew is arguably the archetype of women's fragrance today - with a certain lack of empathy towards its lovers - now referred to as an 'old fragrance'. Perfume users who grew up with La Vie est Belle and with 1 Million may find it disturbing - after all, it tells of a time when perfumes were made so completely differently. Youth-Dew is an opulent floral oriental that roars over the sweet waters of the present like a thunderstorm, weighty, powerful, passionate. It plays virtuously on the keyboard of sepia-toned alto tones that were once girl tones seventy years ago and are now so much more woman than girl. In my commentary on the Eau de Parfum, I called him 'stunner'. That's what he is and yet also much more: memory and melancholy - and under the ashes of his years hot, red, never extinguished embers.
Conclusion: soon the last ones who were young with him will go. And while he may be the fragrance of bygone days from the present point of view, he still exists - and still celebrates life. Celebrates strength, sensuality and femininity. It made Estée Lauder - the ambitious and enterprising daughter of Eastern European immigrants from New York City, and later her company - famous, and the kitchen in which she mixed the first ointments a global corporation. But there are still those who can bear witness to his path, who were once young like him. Let's celebrate them.
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Rachelg
