Archives 69 by Etat Libre d'Orange
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Archives 69 is a perfume by Etat Libre d'Orange for women and was released in 2011. The scent is spicy-fruity. It is still in production.

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Perfumer

Christine Nagel

Fragrance Notes

Mandarin, Pink pepper, Pimento leaf, Orchid, Plum, Frankincense, Camphor, Benzoin, Patchouli, Musk

Ratings

Scent

7.0 (80 Ratings)

Longevity

6.8 (57 Ratings)

Sillage

6.1 (61 Ratings)

Bottle

6.6 (64 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 08.10.2018

Interesting Facts

The name of the fragrance refers to the address of the flagship store of Etat Libre d'Orange:
69 Rue des Archives in Paris.

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Reviews

Bottle 6.0/10 Sillage 4.0/10 Longevity 9.0/10 Scent 6.5/10
Helpful Review    2
Fruitchouli With A Few Twists
Upon wearing Archives 69, I initially thought of it as a regular fruitchouli: ripe sweet plum, rosy fruity pink pepper over a slightly medicinal and earthy patchouli base. However, to my surprise, it doesn't become gooey jammy in texture like many gourmand fruity patchouli does, and it's got a few tricks up its sleeves as well.

Christine Nagel's "rotten fruit" note: an overripe, almost sour mandarine lurks underneath the ripe plum during the opening phase of Archives 69. Its ripened sweetness is a natural extension of the succulent plum, while its sour aftertaste helps to balance the potentially over-the-top fruity sweetness.

Another interesting addition is the camphor. Personally, I don't find it manifests as a distinct element. Rather, it feels like a refreshing breeze blown out of patchouli into the otherwise thick fruity fog. The same goes with the orchid and incense accords. Smell-wise, they feel more like an extension of the fruity notes into floral and woody territories, but texture-wise, they help to maintain a powdery, relatively dry one in order to limit the saccharine sensation.

Besides all of the above, the most interesting part for me, is a prominent balsamic and even slightly cumin-animalic muskiness in the dry down. Combined with the camphor tonality, it actually reminds me of the camphor-cumin pairing of Cadavre Exquis. This combination in Archives 69 is of course a far cry and is extremely diluted and tamed compared to that of Cadavre Exquis, but it still adds an unexpected sensuality to the dominant fruitchouli centerpiece.

Archives 69 has a moderate to soft sillage and a 12h+ longevity on me.

Overall, I still regard Archives 69 primarily as a fruitchouli fragrance, because the sugary plum and the earthy patchouli largely overshadows the other elements on my skin. However, even though these supporting elements only tangentially show themselves, they effectively keep the sweetness at bay. Being usually wary about the syrupy nature of many gourmand fruitchouli, I actually find the slightly powdery texture of Archives 69 much improves its wearability to me. I'd definitely recommend it to those who enjoy fruitchouli combo but would like a few subtle twists embedded within.
Bottle 9.0/10 Sillage 6.0/10 Longevity 10.0/10 Scent 8.5/10
2
Camphorous musky delight
Yes it's medicinal, yes it's a sweet, camphorous musk and yes it's moreish!
It's light but lasts, I find this strange, medicinal smell comforting somehow?
It's not a crowd pleaser, it doesnt conform to regular everyday scent standards and for that I love it more.
Bottle 7.5/10 Scent 8.0/10
Helpful Review    7
First impression: wow
Archives 69 gets a high grade for being daring and original. It opens with paprika/pimento contrasted with some mandarin. In the heart the most important notes appear: a blend of prickly camphor and fresh incense. Its prickly freshness challenges ones nose, like pepper does. Also in the heart there's a medium strong 'pink' orchid and a little sweet plum underneath. This is the magical phase of this fragrance. Heck: 9 out of 10! :) But only for the wonderful heart phase. Later, in the dry down I have to downgrade it to a 7.5, which is still good. After the plum and orchid have faded (much too soon), the airy, prickly camphor-incense mix stays strongly. It's lightened by some musk. There's a tiny dose of benzoin and patchouli in the base.

The heart gets a 9 for me because it accesses strange corners of my brain that I didn't expect. It made me think of a swimming pool (well, the good part of the swimming pool): all-pervading prickly chlorine (taking the place of the camphor) joined by sweet shampoo (orchid) and other clean pleasant body care products (plum). Yes it's a clean but strange fragrance.

Let me compare with another fragrance that has incense and that is a bit smoke-like: Comme des Garçons 2 Man. Well, Archives is stranger and more difficult to like. It is very unisex. Archives is the better fragrance, due to nuances. Try this if you like YSL Nu or Lush Breath of God. A challenge to wear. Cool stuff.
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