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To the 100th a few thoughts about fauns and ELdO
The brand Etat Libre d'Orange has only 14 years on the hunchback and yet it already has a quite remarkable fragrance spectrum. At the moment 43 fragrances are listed here, I know 11 of them. I only got to know this brand here during my active time on Parfumo.
Etat Libre d'Orange was literally proclaimed in 2006 by Etienne de Swardt, who described the year as the year zero of perfume art. It is considered a virtual nation, a state in which fragrance freaks consider their creations entirely as art and create their works simply following their inspirations. That's what makes them so different from the interchangeable drawing board fragrances that are becoming more and more prevalent in the design world.
The name of the fragrance house is derived from the Orange Free State, an independent Boer Republic in South Africa, which existed between 1854 and 1902. Etienne de Swardt was born in Pretoria, so the name was not chosen by chance.
I don't want to talk about the painful history of South Africa, that would go beyond the scope of this article and this is also not the right platform for it.
This brand attracts attention with very unconventional fragrances with equally unconventional names. It is said that Sécrétions Magnifiques is one of the most terrible fragrances of all. I don't know it, but I have read quite a bit about it. It wouldn't be a fragrance I'd have to put on my watch list Now a small and very interesting test series recently came into my hands and I took the opportunity to deal extensively with the fragrances.
Of the scents tested, The Afternoon of a Faun made the most impression on me.
And I thought I could write a few lines about the scent.
The fragrance is built entirely around the Immortelle. The immortelle or strawflower belongs to the daisy family and has a characteristic fragrance. I would describe the fragrance as strongly spicy, aromatic and curry-like. I also perceive the fragrance as very dry, somewhat dusty and medicinal. In any case quite idiosyncratic and not everyone's cup of tea.
The Immortelle remains the dominant theme throughout the entire process. If you can't do anything with this fragrance, you won't be happy with it either.
The strawflower is joined by a few other floral notes, but these are used sparingly and remain in the background. Resinous spice is still present and gives the fragrance a warm undertone. It also becomes greenish, moss brings a certain dull and creaky touch. And a touch of cinnamon adds a bittersweet note.
All of this is very skillfully interwoven, because I can't really make out a top, heart or base note in this fragrance. The notes all come together and surround the main protagonist Immortelle, giving her an exciting framework.
The scent shows slight hints of a chypre scent, a direction I am still very much in favour of In the course of time the fragrance changes only a little bit, it gets a little deeper and a note that reminds me of Maggi comes into play. This is not directly unpleasant now, but fragrances that remind me too much of kitchen spices or herbs are not really my preferred direction.
Overall, the fragrance is not heavy or somber, although I cannot deny its bulkiness.
The shelf life of 10 hours is very successful, but in the course of the first hour the fragrance becomes very close. The somewhat quieter tones, which are struck here, I find very suitable here What does this have to do with a faun now? A faun is a deity of nature and the forest, protector of farmers and herdsmen, of cattle and fields. In its appearance as a mixed creature of man and billy goat, it is supposed to protect and monitor the fertility of man, animals and plants.
The Afternoon of a Faun is based on the poem of the same name by Stéphane Mallarmé, which was adapted into a piece of music by Claude Debussy. This in turn was first performed as a ballet in 1912. Furiously choreographed and danced by Vaslav Nijinsky, it became a scandalous success because it was full of sexual allusions. Unthinkable at that time.
This play tells the story of a faun that wakes up from its afternoon nap and talks about what it has experienced during the day. Maybe they were just dreams
With this fragrance you want to remind of this work. It's quite well done, I think. The fragrance is a bit stubborn on the whole and with this mix of tart, floral, spicy and slightly animal notes it interprets this somewhat surreal mood of the piece quite well, even if I don't find it scandalous.
However, the fragrance will not be a candidate for purchase, because although it is very good, it would definitely be one of those fragrances that are hardly ever worn. So it remains a very interesting and enriching test experience and I thank Ergoproxy very much for the opportunity to test it.
And with the 100th comment I wanted to report about a very impressive fragrance.
Thanks for the attention so far!