Palais Jamais

(1989)
Palais Jamais by Etro
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7.7 / 10     77 RatingsRatingsRatings
Palais Jamais is a popular perfume by Etro for women and men and was released in 1989. The scent is green-spicy. It is still in production.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamot, Mandarin, Lemon, Coriander, Cardamom
Heart Notes Heart NotesBirch wood, Musk, Sage, Arabic jasmine, Paraguayan petigrain, Mate absolute, Pepper
Base Notes Base NotesOakmoss, Vetiver, Clary sage

Ratings

Scent

7.7 (77 Ratings)

Longevity

6.4 (52 Ratings)

Sillage

5.8 (47 Ratings)

Bottle

7.2 (54 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 11.01.2017
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Reviews

2 Awards
A Summer Storm
First impression: the first drops of a summer storm hitting blocks of dusty sandstone, the smell rises hitting your nose with a mineral, earthy and dry yet humid scent. As the fragrance develops, this image becomes cloudier, citruses and herbs enter the picture, the scent becomes woodier, I do get the liquorice roots reference, with that earthy, dusty almost leathery sweetness, a perfect example where the perfume is more than a sum of the parts (vetiver, birch and oakmoss). This perfume is all but simple. At first I dismissed it, only upon second wearing did I really grasp the creativity. I expect I will continue to discover this fragrance with its subtle facets. All in all, great fragrance, perfect for reflecting on perfume as an art form. A refreshing attempt to create art and not a commercial people pleaser.
Sillage 7.5/10
Longevity 7.5/10
Scent 8.0/10
Helpful Review    6 Awards
Greenish, Smooth Oakmoss Chypre
Etro is a funny house for me. I do not always fully understand their creations, but I sense that they are all made of high-quality ingredients, featuring many natural components. PALAIS JAMAIS is a case in point. As I have enjoyed sniffing my way through a generous house-manufactured carded sample, I have become more and more smitten, which makes me wonder whether these creations do not simply require a bit more time to fully digest.

This perfume is an incredibly beautiful, entirely unisex, herbal-moss chypre--sort of. It's actually a bit difficult to describe. The oakmoss (and yes, it's evernia prunastri, according to the text printed on the card), is in full evidence, but it is balanced by enough bright elements that the overall effect is not gray but light green.

I feel that this composition is perfectly blended, and I wonder whether it is being reformulated to conform with the IFRA restrictions. This is an excellent case where if I knew that I could acquire the perfume in my sample vial as a full bottle, I'd jump at the chance. Unfortunately, it's always a gamble these days. If I run into a physical bottle somewhere (unlikely to happen, I realize), I'll read the label, and if what is listed is the same (evernia prunastri, not furfuracea), I'll gladly add this perfume to my collection.

PALAIS JAMAIS is refined and subtle, but gorgeous.
4 Replies
jtd
Helpful Review    6 Awards
Distinctive/Oddball. I can't really see the line.
Palais Jamais should be a mess. Citrus, floral, smoky, herbal, vetiver. Was that rubber? Was it supposed to be leather? Palais Jamais somehow keeps its parts distinct and well behaved. From top to base, PJ maintains an ungainly balance. The elements don't come together---that would be the mess---they just follow their courses. The lighter elements recede, the heavier notes come forward, and PJ's drydown is suggestive of a sharp, dry, smoky tea. PJ manages to suggest dry, wet and burnt simultaneously. Great trick, actually. Always captivates me.

There's something objective in tone about PJ. It doesn't come off as blended or harmonious. It doesn't become a skin scent. It stays put and asks you to approach it, to consider or admire it as you might a piece of abstract art. A successful if oddly modern attitude for such a staid design house like Etro.

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