Thirty Three 2013

Thirty Three by Ex Idolo
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8.4 / 10     142 RatingsRatingsRatings
Thirty Three is a popular perfume by Ex Idolo for women and men and was released in 2013. The scent is floral-woody. Projection and longevity are above-average. It is still in production.
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Perfumer

Matthew Zhuk

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBlack pepper, Candied mandarin, Natural rubber
Heart Notes Heart NotesChinese white tea, Chinese rose, Taif rose, Iris, Metal
Base Notes Base NotesOud, Patchouli, Heliotropin

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (142 Ratings)

Longevity

9.0 (118 Ratings)

Sillage

8.1 (123 Ratings)

Bottle

7.2 (97 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 15.08.2020.
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Reviews

9
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
Rosie88
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Rosie88
Rosie88
Top Review    11  
1:1 comparison of Thirty Three with Madame de Maintenon
When I first tested Thirty Three, I felt as if I had smelled a very similar scent before... Yes, and I even have it in my collection...

It was or is Madame de Maintenon of Château de Versailles... (please wait with throwing the stone and read a little bit more first ;-P

If you compare the two fragrance pyramids with each other, the two have only 1 thing in common: Patchouli...

Nevertheless, I can't let it go, because in my nose the two are soo similar.
So a 1:1 test had to be made ;-)

Left on the arm the Thirty Three - and right the Madame de Maintenon sprayed on...

The Thirty Three begins strongly spicy, almost a bit "biting" - thanks to the pepper, I suppose. Then follows a fruity note, a dripping rose, fleshy-fruity and lustful... A very full-bodied and slightly intrusive yet proud rose... a little dirty maybe...
And then there is the note that reminds me so much of Madame de Maintenon... It's a chlorous saffron note...! Yes I smell saffron, even if it's not listed! I suspect it's a combination of patchouli and Typhoon Rose that makes me smell chlorinated saffron... The earthy darkness of Patchouli surrounds the fresh Taif Rose, that must be it...
So now let the stones fly, if you like ;-) Or do you smell the same as I do?

Later, after about 2 hours, the intensity of the rose diminishes a little - but it is always there - just not as strong as at the beginning....

Something woody is added, which gives the fragrance a wonderful durability . The wood carries the rose on hands and they enter into a wonderful symbiosis... Still resonates the chlorous saffron note, which I really appreciate very much ..
The scent has an enormous durability and even after a night + shower - it is still to be sniffed very close...
Sooo, then it's Madame's turn, which I had sprayed on the left side before:
Madame de Maintenon generally starts out a little less intense and by no means sharp, like the Thirty Three ....
The chlorous saffron note is in the lead here from the beginning and is actually very similar - like the one on Thirty Three, which appeared there after about 5 minutes...
Yes, in my opinion this is effectively the parallel of the two fragrances ...

The chlorous saffron note of Madame de Maintenon is joined by a restrained jasmine and a wonderfully earthy patchouli... The patchouli was used here more discreetly as with the Thirts Three, with which it only supports the jasmine and does not tear it down into the hole in the ground....

Madame de Maintenon stays in chlorous saffron-jasmine patch suit for a long time and then slowly weakens... The sandalwood gives the Madame a good hold, but she doesn't have such an enormous breath like the Thirty Three for a long time...

Even if the two are very similar in my opinion, there are still big differences... In general the Madame de Maintenon is more flowery and "friendly" than the Thirty Three - who is a little bit more cheeky, "dirty" and spicy...

Here is my ranking:

Scent:
Thirty Three: 10
Madame: 10

Durability:
Thirty Three: 9
Madame: 8

Sillage:
Thirty Three: 8
Madame: 7

Flacon:
Thirty Three: 8
Madame: 9

All in all, I would say to myself that you only have to have one of the two... But which one it is, you have to decide for yourself... Since I have the Madame already in my collection, I will enjoy her for now :-)

10 Replies
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
Very helpful Review    5  
Dull and costly
A spicy rose-oud scent as much decent as dull and in the vein of dozens of others, from Montale to Xerjoff to well, two thirds of niche brands. I admit though, that this may sit just a tiny tad above many of them, because of both some moderately interesting nuances, and its overall quality. The smell is in fact enough thick, faceted and natural to result in something a bit (just a bit) more intriguing and fulfilling that several other average niche oud scents. Both rose and oud seem good quality, especially the rose note, which has a quite appealing texture of soapy, resinous, camphorous nuances, a bit as in Aramis Calligraphy Rose, with some sharp sort of spicy edges (I get cloves, definitely, and pepper). The same for oud, it smells a bit flat, but not overly artificial to my nose, and cleverly toned-down to act more as just a smoky, weightless, kind of cold yet gloomy dry-medicinal base for rose. I appreciate so much the absence of any cheap dry rubberiness as in the near totality of synthetic ouds.

Besides the faceted rose infusion, the “interesting nuances” I mentioned (interesting for me, of course) would be mostly a deeper woody-smoky-peppery vein with a sort of dry-mossy feel which kind of reminds me of some vintage masculine chypres (I guess it’s patchouli), that sort of austere dark green-mossy dryness with camphorous nuances infused with a hint of dusky flowers (rose) and something reminding me of civet – that peculiar sweaty-indolic-sultry feel. I see no civet here, but I believe that oud plus some sweet nuances and the powdery feel of the floral notes may create something like that. They create an overall sort of cold, dirty feel, which is quite fascinating – as long as it lasts (not much, sadly).

And that was the good part, basically. Fun subtle variations on a trite theme – this leading us to the bad side of this scent: rose and oud combos and variations are so ubiquitous, so abused and over-done, that it’s really hard for a scent to stand out, especially with absurd price tags such as Ex-Idolo’s ones. Thirty-three is somehow nice, it is refined and competently put together, but not really enough for being bottle worthy in my opinion. I mean: it’s decent, but it’s still just rose and oud again. So many others are equally nice and are cheaper than this. If it cost a third of its price, I’d consider it fine, but for $185 / 50 ml I want something outstanding, magic and memorable, and there’s none of it here (for my idea of “outstanding, magic and memorable” applied to a rose oud scent, just check any Abdul Samad Al Qurashi fine oil).

6/10
1 Replies
8
Scent
Tinctureall

94 Reviews
Tinctureall
Tinctureall
Very helpful Review    5  
Aged oudh with the young fresh rose
If you have a passion for oudh anyway, the lure of trying this is irresistible. Ancient oud of this vintage cannot be resisted. The soft rose and the dark oudh here are old partners, These have lived and loved together for centuries. This is like a time machine of a fragrance, taking these old lovers and giving them infinity. The gift of time has worn all the hard edges away from the oudh and the woody notes are soft like velvet. The newly plump rose caresses your senses like the brushings of a freshly picked petal on your cheek. They recline together intertwined in an enveloping shawl of soft sandalwood that has been lying on patchouli leaves. There is a trace of the peppery but it is more like the soft peppery of skin in the warm sun. The slight sweetness and fruity twist to the heliotropin adding the layers to this sumptuous nose feast.

Complete and utter love for this. For oudh lovers it is a must have. It rivals the best.
1 Replies
8
Scent
Kxnaiades

50 Reviews
Kxnaiades
Kxnaiades
Very helpful Review    5  
many oud+roses out there, but not all are as fair
This is pure heaven. Its in the same vein as Kurkdjian's Lumiere Noire Pour Femme, another heartbreaking love of mine. This is the kind of rose I have decided I really like, non powdery, dark dark DARK rose and in your face oud and patchouli of amazing, headshop quality but with some ritz. Patchouli haters steer clear of this one. Those who have migraines triggered by strong scents, stay away from this one. Another super plus point of this is the fantastic sillage and longevity, it's Amouage style and more. I blind bought this to celebrate my 33rd year on this planet and this has to be the best blind buy ever.
8
Scent
10
Longevity
10
Sillage
ScentFan

327 Reviews
ScentFan
ScentFan
Helpful Review    8  
A Rescued Love
Hubby bought Thirty Three, didn't like it, and gave it to me to sell, exchange or give away. Luckily I tried it before doing that or I wouldn't own this marvel. I found its beauty unexpected, like splatters of paint on a canvas deemed high art. I mean, rubber? That note took some getting used to. Damascus steel (I assume that's not a flinty rose)? Fortunately, the rubber calms down, its place taken by beautiful roses, (my favorite floral next to Jasmine) and by Iris. In the base is Patchouli, my 2nd favorite wood (next to Sandalwood), and there’s an oud this gal can love, possibly because of its maturity. Also Heliotropin. Hmm ... what’s that again? Pulling it from my trusty perfumery notes kit ... ah, yes, cherry/vanilla. I can smell every one of these notes: the sultry black pepper, the zest of candied mandarin, the astringency of white tea, the flowers. To me they blend to paint a picture of a knight astride his horse, decorated with a floral garland made by his lady love. There’s the smell of horseshoes fresh from the anvil, of a newly-sanded wooden lance and its sharpened blade. Someone hands him a mug of mulled wine. For me, Thirty Three is beauty and adventure in a bottle. I wear it when I want to feel more alive.
10
Scent
Coutureguru

223 Reviews
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
Top Review    8  
Big Oud!! Big Rose!! BIG FANTASTIC
Thirty Three by Ex Idolo is lauded as the 'next generation' of Oud fragrances in many of the reviews I have read around the web. A relatively new release, I couldn't resist the opportunity of having the pricy little 30ml bottle muled to me by a friend from London I saw a few days ago. £90 per 30mls is steep in any parfumisti's book … but extremely worth it imho.

Right out of the gate, I'll admit that the chance to smell authentic 33 year old Oud was an enticing drawcard! To my surprise, I realized that I had smelled and loved this fragrance before (at least for the first few minutes) in Montale's Black Oud … and then it began to develop.
A combination of Rose Oil from China and the unmistakable woody Rose from Ta'if begins to subtly claw it's way out of the Oud's fullness, beginning deep and dark like a bouquet of almost black red roses. This melange of Roses becomes brighter (I've often compared Ta'if Rose to the whirling of a scimitar through the air) but also sweeter and velvety … stopping just short of being overly gourmand.
As a self confessed Oudie, I find that note to be quite a revelation here, especially after the multitude of synthetic Ouds I've had my nose on recently. Some of the Oud used in this fragrance is apparently wild harvested in China, while the origin of the vintage Oud used in this creation is shrouded in mystery. This is probably the smoothest, richest and most beautiful Oud that I have had the pleasure of sampling since the use of this note has become so popular … it's truly enchanting!!
Above average sillage and longevity make the cost of this fragrance a lot easier to bear. One has to wonder, however, if the quality will remain the same in coming years. How much vintage, 33 year old Oud is out there?

Whereas I am one of the people that find Montale's Black Oud to be wonderful, I can't help admitting that Ex Idolo's Thirty Three has forever altered that perception … indeed changed the way I feel about many of my favorite Oud fragrances. This fragrance is a game changer …
5 Replies
8
Scent
10
Longevity
10
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Drseid

742 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Top Review    9  
The Journey Of The Ever-changing Rose...
Thirty Three opens with a slightly sweet boozy dried fruit accord with hints of dark dulled rose peeping through. As the composition moves to its early heart the rose takes command, gaining in its depth and breadth as it turns jammy with the boozy fruit replaced by supporting rubbery Oud and relatively sanitized patchouli rising from the base. During the late dry-down the rose remains the star though now more airy and dewy, with the supporting patchouli joining near-transparent smooth Oud sans rubber coupling late with slightly powdery heliotrope. Projection is outstanding, as is longevity at well over 15 hours on skin.

Thirty Three has been marketed as featuring "vintage Oud" aged thirty-three years before its use (hence the composition's name). That said, it is clear early-on that the rose is the real star, and it changes in its characteristics throughout the composition's relatively linear development. The rose starts off dark and slightly dull before blooming into a jammy full dominant rose in the heart and then a light and airy natural smelling dewy rose at the finish. The smooth vintage Oud used is detectable throughout, but my guess is it is enhanced by some synthetic Oud to create the rubbery effect early before it smooths into the composition during the late dry-down seamlessly eschewing its rubbery facet. While the official notes list has some fancy esoteric ingredients listed like "Damascus steel" I confess I did not detect them after multiple wearings on skin. The composition is really a more classic rose, Oud and patchouli elixir distinguished by the way the rose changes as the composition develops, exhibiting excellent execution. The bottom line is the vintage real Oud in the $120 per 30ml bottle Thirty Three is what most likely will get people to try it, but it is the ever-changing characteristics of the rose that makes the composition the "excellent" 4 star out of 5 success it is.
5 Replies

Statements

BoBoChampBoBoChamp 37 days ago
7.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
After a pronounced spicy opening, this fresh and clean (metallic) powdery-floral Spring fragrance slowly settles to a soft earthy-woody base
HermeshHermesh 5 years ago
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Starts bit (oudy) sharp, but soon becomes a field of roses. Rose is deep and slightly sweet. A pleasure.

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