Astor 1880Cologne

Astor (Cologne) by Geo. F. Trumper
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8.4 / 10     49 RatingsRatingsRatings
Astor (Cologne) is a popular perfume by Geo. F. Trumper for men and was released in 1880. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesCaraway, Petitgrain, Lemon
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmine
Base Notes Base NotesAmber, Sandalwood

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (49 Ratings)

Longevity

6.6 (41 Ratings)

Sillage

6.0 (45 Ratings)

Bottle

7.9 (50 Ratings)
Submitted by Pazuzu, last update on 12.08.2020.
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Reviews

8
Scent
6
Longevity
6
Sillage
7
Bottle
FvSpee
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FvSpee
FvSpee
Top Review    27  
Colonial goods IV: Nasen-Köm
Astor and Wellington are brothers in scent. They are both about 150 years old, both from Trumper and both from the Cologne series named after British generals and statesmen (Marlborough, Curzon, Wellington - but I don't really know who Astor is). Both combine the classic citrus freshness of a colognes with some quirky, quirky additions typical of the old-fashioned English men's perfumery craft.

However, these additions are as brown as brown can be with Astor, which is why I have classified Astor under the colonial goods and thus separated the brothers. Above all, Astor, in my opinion, in contrast to Wellington, has been successful despite all eccentricity.

My first scent impression (which may be the decisive one for a cologne, top note dazzling is much more likely to be allowed for scents that sometimes exhaust themselves in the top note than elsewhere), even before looking at the ingredient information: One half is a beautiful, atypical, elegant, silvery-matt citric; the other half is a pungency that at first seems a bit strange in a fragrance, but is quite appropriate, not unpleasant, clearly kitchen-like. I thought first of onions, second of horseradish (both sound worse than it smells), then I couldn't stand it any longer and looked at the scents.

Caraway seeds, of course! When you know it, you wonder how you didn't know it right away. Astor smells of caraway. In the opening phase, which lasts about half an hour to an hour, Astor is a citrus caraway scent, or, since citrus is so normal that it is not noticeable at all, actually a caraway scent, a nasal aquavit. There. You have to digest this first, whereby caraway is supposed to be very helpful
As a fragrance, caraway is not as rare as one might think. Parfumo lists 428 scents with caraway, including such disparate products as Diorama (women's fragrance by Dior, 1949), Polo, Azzaro Pour Homme and Tuscany Per Uomo (three powerhouse men's fragrances from 1978 to 1984), Le Male (needless to say, 1995), the millenarian (2000) Bruno Banani Men, Epic Woman (Amouage, 2009) and the hardcore niche product Ma Nishtana by Prissana (2019). Also two fragrances I own and love, Bel Ambre by Jacques Fath and Baudelaire by Byredo, contain caraway seeds.

But I don't know of any other fragrance except Astor, in which caraway plays the first, or at least a second violin that aggressively pushes itself into the foreground. It takes some getting used to, but together with the citric, I find it round and fitting.

There are no unpleasant surprises in the further course of the project either, on the contrary. Everything happens with wondrous precision and harmony: You think the scent is completely linear until you notice that the caraway is no longer there (after two hours at the latest). Its place at the side of the citrus freshness is completely unnoticed, and as if by magic, it is taken by a woody and towards the end also quite discreetly sweet (perhaps the musk) base. In this final phase Astor is still old-fashioned British, but no longer as eccentric culinary and spicy as in the beginning, but more conventional and inconspicuous.

After about four to five hours - with generous spraying - the simple, minimalist but thoroughly beautiful spectacle is over. The scent could probably last the whole day if it was sprayed. I'm probably not anglophile, brave or eccentric enough to buy a fragrance like Astor or wear it regularly. But it is successful, very special and worth a test.
22 Replies
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
DasguteLeben
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DasguteLeben
DasguteLeben
Very helpful Review    14  
Mr. Astor, gentleman
Gentry from Kent. Lives a long time in London. Eton, Cambridge, Sandhurst, a few years India, Italy, Berlin, then Ministry. One hears very well read, Patriot, of course, but a cosmopolitan - he likes to eat caraway. Knows Elgar personally. The suits of Anderson & Sheppard. Always muted, classic, unobtrusively elegant, but pay attention to the handkerchiefs - discreet eccentricity, sense of humour and an aesthete, always a jasmine blossom in the lapel - he has contacts to Kew - and can be sent by regimental colleagues sandalwood from India. Often at the Liberal Club. Really the perfect gentleman this Astor. A very fine chap indeed.
10 Replies
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle
Stinki
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Stinki
Stinki
   4  
i've never consumed more of any of them,
i think I now have the fifth or 6 100ml bottle in use and it is a kind of signature fragrance from me. Caraway with lemon, in the finish creamy, valuable Sandalwood gently accompanied by some salty jasmine (very good) and amber. Amber m.M.n. has never been used better as a softening element. The whole thing with a nostalgic Old World touch, all kept very dry. That's it? Yeah, that's it, that's why he's so incredibly good. More intended for autumn and winter days, in summer I think the caraway note is too thick. Gentleman scent !
10
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
10
Bottle
NotAmused
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NotAmused
NotAmused
Helpful Review    3  
Astrum Astor
Astor is the third oldest Cologne in the Trumper Collection and the fourth oldest Cologne from Geo still available today. F. Trumper (Wild Fern has a spray bottle and does not belong to the collection, but dates from the same period). To make the timeframe more tangible: Astor is as old as Cologne Cathedral. This was also completed in 1880, but the history of its 600-year construction phase is so horrible that I don't want to go into it further with such a beautiful fragrance.
If you look at Astor in the context of the Trumper Collection, you can say that this is the first time that a clear scent with partly playful elements appears. With the Curzon, which appeared later, this is even more pronounced, but Astor, in my opinion, strikes a much better balance between matter-of-factly reserved and surprisingly friendly greetings in between and also has fewer ingredients. But one by one,
Astor is a Splash-Cologne and should be used in the same way. I had two samples and filled one of them into a (of course meticulously cleaned) spray bottle, which turned out to be a mistake. I have no idea why, but from the spray bottle it smelled different, quite sharp and the course was somehow "broken".
When I took the sample directly from the tube and dripped it directly onto my wrist without rubbing, I immediately and almost alone said hello to the caraway. Immediately citric notes were added, the bitter orange is clearly perceptible, the lemon somewhat more reserved for me. The whole thing results in a wonderfully balanced, spicy citric top note that has completely surprised me and does it again and again.
In the further course the caraway remains present, as soon as the hesperid notes fade away, the jasmine steps into the picture and gives it a beautiful sweetness without making the composition sweet. Every now and then a little cloud of the finest Chinese jasmine tea bounces from the shirt cuff, which always makes me smile. The sandalwood now becomes increasingly perceptible and creates in the later course together with the restrained, but fixing ambergris a great warmth.
Astor manages with just a few ingredients and gives everyone enough space to be noticed. One can probably assume that these are also of largely natural origin and that the composition was not reformulated. This did not fit at all into Trumper's traditional philosophy. And that's what you smell. It's not like that anymore. This water is so old that it could also come from another star, which is why I always internally call it "astrum". In any case, I like it very much and it is already reserved for the next Cologne purchase.
1 Replies
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
10
Bottle
Konsalik
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Konsalik
Konsalik
Top Review    9  
On the neck, not on the hand
There are perfumes that somehow overtax or even alienate you under classic "test conditions" (back of the hand, wrist). The "Astor" from the traditional English house Trumper, counting around 140 Lenze, belongs to this category for me. As a deliberately simple eau de cologne of Anglo-Saxon colour, composed from a few elements, the reviewer concluded for himself: "Aha, let's go with the trunk, as long as something can be smelt." But wrongly thought: The Cologne fresh caraway note is so persistent and pungent and radiant at a short distance that my nose of the 21st century, which is hardly used to intensive caraway in perfumes, soon had to paint the sails. About

Nose to brain: "Smells totally interesting, but I can't take it anymore!"
"Okay, I'm causing a headache, then the Heini with the unhealthy sniffing will surely stop soon."

The jasmine note in the heart seems to support caraway rather than replace it. Whew! And that's what I'm supposed to wear? Two weeks went by, the "Eucris" launched three decades later was tested and found to be very good (though also difficult to carry) and I was almost ready to declare the scents from this house incompatible with my sense of smell. My internalized cliché of a "classic English men's fragrance" did not coincide at all with what was presented here. But then one morning I'm in an unusual hurry, standing helpless in front of the perfume shelf. "What the hell!" Three, four sprayers from the sample tube (thanks again to dear Yatagan!) and down the stairs.

I already realized in the car that something was wrong. The scent impression from the first test was still present, the "self-projection" was quite strong, but by no means unpleasant and exhausting as in the back of the hand test. On the contrary, the florally framed caraway had a refreshing and invigorating effect. Only completely different from what the classic Kölnisch Wasser formulas almost universally prescribe. Until the early afternoon I was delighted and focused by Astor waves that were always rising again. The fragrance essentially retains its unusual character, but at the same time becomes successively rounder and softer (will be the amber, which may not appear as such otherwise). In my opinion, durability and sillage are not adequately reflected by the mean values of the perfume ratings: He's holding on!

A fragrance that needs a few centimeters as the crow flies to the nose to do what it's supposed to do. Then he does it excellently.
5 Replies
6
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Tar

261 Reviews
Tar
Tar
   0  
Indoor swimming-pool
ASTOR COLOGNE is a really poor fragrance - in a good meaning. It is minimalist, serves to your nose an aquatic, smoky fragrance, that does not change so much. Chlorinated water and incense, that is what I can detect, a perfect scent for a real gentleman (wilder youngsters maybe prefer something louder or more extreme). Projection and endurance are moderate.

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