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Greatly helpful Review18
As "noir" as it gets
A very friendly mail from my dear user Yatagan gave me the opportunity to test two old trumper classics, which I've been planning for quite some time anyway. It was also my intention not to fall back into my (certainly tiring for the readers) "Everything used to be better, except for asbestos and the dental possibilities" lament. I've thought it through in my imagination and in almost every comment I've made it sound somewhere, so why tell again why I don't feel at home when it comes to scents in the present (i.e. the years since Cool Water, which means nothing against Cool Water)?
But, dear people, forgive me: Just now, when almost everyone has already thrown something onto the market with "night", "dark", "black", "extremely black" and the like - and hardly any of these scents in me really evoked the primary perception of black, dark, melancholic, depths, which was actually evoked by the naming, without words or forms, I simply have to say: a good hundred years ago it worked out. And this in a clarity that could almost tempt me to stick this review of comments and statements on this fragrance together. Such a collage would have hardly less news value than my considerations: Many reviewers seem to have felt similar, although the impact was more severe for me. The first fragrance impression is really amazing, especially for a relatively inexperienced perfume, because the elements of this fragrance pyramid can really not be found in variation at every corner. First thought: "So this is how sadness smells." Not wild grief, not the hot tear. Habitual resignation, deep melancholy, patient but doubtful desire for redemption. Immediately the thought of an old edition of an art book from the 10s ("Der stille Garten"), which I once bought cheaply in Düsseldorf: Dark violet cover picture with Art Nouveau floristics. About this Stefan George ("Come to the dead park", you know...) and Trakl. You could also say: That's what a Trakl poem smells like, but even fewer people would want to follow.
How does it smell? In fact, initially black currant, but without any superficial fruitiness or acidity that, it seems, only contingently adheres to it in its capacity as an actual fruit - rather, we can smell the currant in its idea, from which everything commercial was taken off. Violet, viscous drops. I suspect that it is the lily of the valley that supports the purification work on the berry, but I am not sure. Slightly late, but with great seriousness (first as with Astor from the same house) now the caraway comes in and gives the currant with its both ethereal, as well as slightly moldy spice (pale) shine and frame (with water damage). Really, you can't imagine a sharper antipole to an "uplifting" Fresh-Feelgood fragrance. On the other hand, every gothic patchouli cliché scent is an ode to carefree cheerfulness smashed in the head voice (especially as I seldom feel patchouli as dark anyway, but that doesn't belong here).
10 points for the bold, clear design, with simple, few strokes. This is a fragrance for lonely hours with a heavy chest, a swab on the wrist, especially as it can be strenuous. If you use 100ml of Eucris in one lifetime... well. Trakl.