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Notes08/08/2015
WildGardener
100 Reviews
WildGardener
1
Semi aquatic, semi oriental, semi original
A thick layer of powdery sweetness beneath which lies a dark, bitter kernel of orange bergamot with a petitgrain woody undertone.
There's a salty aspect which seems to be built from a discrete melon type marine background, with the hard dessicated lemony essence of hydroxy adding its yellow crystal aura, and a denatured blackcurrant that feels like its been put through a boil wash before going in.
And here's a neutral oily note expressing olives and pollen and which meets up half way with a sweet floral accord dominated by neroli - rather methyl anthranilate like, and where linalyl acetate adds it strong sweetness. Also some Jasmin petal with its characteristic plasticy texture.
This is good classical perfumery in the semi synthetic mode.
While there may be some real flowers from north Africa here, and I am inclined to believe there are, it is disingenuous to imply that mainstream perfumery is the product of bee nourishing flowers grown under wide sun drenched skies. Bergamotto Marino is obviously made of aroma chemicals in the main, and its no worse for that. In fact, this juice would not be half as good if it were 100% natural. Seek out some 'natural' perfumes in a health food store and you will see what I mean.
This is not one of Pierre Bourdon's most avant garde works. After all, its necessary for creative perfumers to demonstrate a safe pair of hands from time to time to reassure the bean counters, but it is original - in a derivative way.
The genealogy is Aquatic - salty, which descends from Cool Water via Voyageur, sweet amber Oriental somewhere between Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, and it tips a nod to Roudnitska's melon.
It settles as a salt air, sweet powdery oriental with dark orange colour value.
Not bad at all, but too sweet for my taste which is why I sometimes layer it with Jo Malone's LB&M.
There's a salty aspect which seems to be built from a discrete melon type marine background, with the hard dessicated lemony essence of hydroxy adding its yellow crystal aura, and a denatured blackcurrant that feels like its been put through a boil wash before going in.
And here's a neutral oily note expressing olives and pollen and which meets up half way with a sweet floral accord dominated by neroli - rather methyl anthranilate like, and where linalyl acetate adds it strong sweetness. Also some Jasmin petal with its characteristic plasticy texture.
This is good classical perfumery in the semi synthetic mode.
While there may be some real flowers from north Africa here, and I am inclined to believe there are, it is disingenuous to imply that mainstream perfumery is the product of bee nourishing flowers grown under wide sun drenched skies. Bergamotto Marino is obviously made of aroma chemicals in the main, and its no worse for that. In fact, this juice would not be half as good if it were 100% natural. Seek out some 'natural' perfumes in a health food store and you will see what I mean.
This is not one of Pierre Bourdon's most avant garde works. After all, its necessary for creative perfumers to demonstrate a safe pair of hands from time to time to reassure the bean counters, but it is original - in a derivative way.
The genealogy is Aquatic - salty, which descends from Cool Water via Voyageur, sweet amber Oriental somewhere between Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, and it tips a nod to Roudnitska's melon.
It settles as a salt air, sweet powdery oriental with dark orange colour value.
Not bad at all, but too sweet for my taste which is why I sometimes layer it with Jo Malone's LB&M.
