Golden Fruity Ricey Iris
It is rare for me to rave about a fruity-floral perfume, but Gianfranco Ferré FERRE edp (2005) is an exceptional case of such a creation fully realized. The fruits named in the hierarchy are undeniably present--melon and pineapple--but somehow they are executed much better than usual. Ironically, melon and pineapple are two of my least favorite notes in perfumery, yet in this composition they really work.
The feeling of this creation, smooth and golden, luxurious but casual, is perfectly reflected by its color, and the nobility is well conveyed by the gorgeous bottle. The iris and the rice note combine to impart a rich and creamy texture to the composition, which boasts a number of other floral notes, though I consider this primarily to be an iris perfume.
Pierre Bourdon is the perfumer, and back when I tested Frédéric Malle IRIS POUDRE, the very first thing I noticed was that it seemed like a cousin to FERRE edp. There are a couple of important differences, however. First, IRIS POUDRE is more formal and has a significant aldehydic facet, which is entirely absent here. Second, FERRE is much fruitier and has a unique texture--apparently imparted by the rice note.
Having nearly reached the bottom of my 100 ml bottle of this elixir--and it will not be my last--I continue to marvel over the fact that FERRE edp seems to have such a meager following. This can only be attributed to the complete absence of any effort to market this creation. If there have been any ads whatsoever, I certainly have not seen them. I was introduced to this perfume by a fellow fragrant traveler with great taste who also first sent me a decant of Prada INFUSION D'IRIS. Three years have since elapsed, yet I feel just as enthusiastic about both perfumes as I did back then!
In my ongoing testing frenzy, I sometimes neglect staples in my wardrobe such as FERRE edp, but every time that I return to this perfume my belief in its worthiness is reconfirmed. I was recently reminded of FERRE while testing CHLOE LOVE, which also features iris, sweetness (heliotrope?), and a rice note, and has a similar spirit. Anyone who likes CHLOE LOVE is bound to love FERRE edp--it's a better perfume, it seems to me.