The dark roses of the East
This was a blind mystery sniff given by a fellow perfumista. I'm giving you this straight off the notepad as it was smelled with no prior knowledge at the time of its origins, title, make, perfumer or price range.
On skin, initially quite a mysterious, chemical composition, a dark powdery gourmand, vanillin, a sharpish herbal spike like a thyme or oregano, tonka type sweet, cashmeran musty, rich and fruity like plum, iris type deep floral, clean. Drying down to patchouli-esque amber. A touch of something naughty in here, like old sex or mucky animal, civet-like. A second wearing found more woods, a transparent quality like dry paper, like the norimbanol note. The unidentifiable flower came over as more towards a hyacinth/chemical muguet the second time with a tonka feel, like a touch of the classic Guerlain spicy sweet powdery accord.
On paper, less shouty, less sweet and more floral, like a narcissus influenced very rich lily/rose, possibly orange side of citrus, fruity, sweet fruity orrissy powdery, possibly violetty/irissy. Cleaner fresh but interesting darker note like stones. Definitely a patchouli in here. Second trying detected a boozy quality, and the flower was hard to identify blind. It didn't jump out as a straighforward flower, it seemed darker, spicier and more mysterious than any I could identify.
The rose/saffron/oud became obvious on the reveal of course. Some of the perfumes guessed, just to position this scent and not for direct comparison, were, Dry wood by Ramon Monegal, Timbuktu by L'Artisan, Opus V by Amouage, Arabian nights by Jesus del Ponto, Oud Shamash by the Different Company, Midnight Oud by Juliette has a gun, Harrods Bond No 9 Oud Patchouli or New York Oud.
It took me a long time to guess this one. Dark, fairly harsh initially, and very mysterious. It gets softer as it dries down with the dry woody papery note remaining.