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Rice pudding for adults
At first I had adjusted myself to a kind of half-hearted middle thing between the sibling fragrances 'Rose d'Arabie' and 'Oud Royal', so the preliminary assessment while sniffing at the test bottle (thoughts of Rose) and at the paper strip (thoughts of Oud). Even immediately after application, a wood note at least resembling oud and a comparatively juicy rose provide a somewhat sandy mixture of the two. Within minutes, however, the true protagonists approach. Saffron dust, plus waxy soap, which is probably Noreenal, a supposedly "new aldehyde". Jasmin is concisely represented with his soap-strong part.
First of all, I'm irritated by the mixture. Does saffron give off this strange rice pudding for which the rose comes across as the blob of fruit? In the next moment I sit with the Chinese and at the same time the scent from the rice pot and from the cup of jasmine tea rises into my nose. Let's keep the keyword "rice pudding" in mind, it will still be significant, even though it only became completely clear to me on the second test day.
Anyway, the eponym now demands our attention: lots of white musk. The cool atmosphere reminds me spontaneously of Il Profvmo's 'Musc Bleu', only that the latter is much more floral. A parallel test shows little open-smelling similarities - only one in style, because in both cases the fragrance does not develop any small girl attitude à la for example 'Puredistance I' despite the isolated, relatively light-harmless musk, but offers adult seriousness in each case.
Today we succeed as follows: Firstly, a latent tary-oily turn in the rose quotes stinkers like Dior's 'Oud Ispahan', thus the musk puts a small toe into the animal world, so to speak, via substitution. Secondly, the softly musty saffron secretiveness and a strict "unflowery florality" dance together. Thirdly, I imagine (even if it is because of the frequent appearance of the combi) that from time to time a trace of Oudiges came out, strictly basal-serviceable and tart priming.
And how does rice pudding come into play now? On the second day of testing I suddenly thought of guaiac or Palo Santo, which takes on a note of burnt milk in Carner's scent of the same name. With the knowledge of this, this aroma always revealed itself much more quickly and clearly. And it works in many ways. It also contributes a mite to the severity and it breaks the acidity of the rose to the top without using too much sweetness for it. It also promotes a kind of sugary amber illusion with a little distance from the skin. We must not get too close with the nose, otherwise all this will dissolve into charred, coquely milky- sweet. But with some distance: apart!
After about eight hours 'Musc Shamal' reflects on his name and shows more musk. Garnished with a pinch of vanilla sweetness. A good ending, at this time of course entirely in order.
Conclusion: 'Musc Shamal' has succeeded, although it does not come close to the size of 'Rose d'Arabie' and 'Oud Royal'. In particular, the original use of one of my least appreciated flavours, cokey milk, commands me some respect. I won't wear the fragrance, anyway, it's more likely to be in the ladies' world.
PS: The friendly young man at the Armani stand in the Alsterhaus pointed out to me by the way that the samples were filled by hand in a workshop for the handicapped, and that the elaborate spray head was deliberately avoided in order to avoid plastic. I didn't expect either - very laudable.