Xeryus 1986 Eau de Toilette

Xeryus (Eau de Toilette) by Givenchy
Bottle Design Catherine Krunas, Atelier Dinand
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7.7 / 10129 Ratings
Xeryus (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Givenchy for men and was released in 1986. The scent is spicy-woody. It is being marketed by LVMH.
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamotBergamot Green notesGreen notes JasmineJasmine LavenderLavender Lily of the valleyLily of the valley Mandarin orangeMandarin orange MaceMace RoseRose VioletViolet Ylang-ylangYlang-ylang LemonLemon
Heart Notes Heart NotesCyclamenCyclamen TarragonTarragon CarnationCarnation GeraniumGeranium CorianderCoriander PetitgrainPetitgrain SandalwoodSandalwood Juniper berryJuniper berry CinnamonCinnamon CypressCypress
Base Notes Base NotesAmberAmber Balsam spruce OakmossOakmoss LeatherLeather MuskMusk VetiverVetiver FrankincenseFrankincense CedarCedar

Ratings

Scent

7.7129 Ratings

Longevity

7.799 Ratings

Sillage

6.6104 Ratings

Bottle

7.2111 Ratings

Value for money

7.316 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 21.05.2022.

Interesting Facts

The fragrance was re-released in 2007 as part of the collection "Les Parfums Mythiques".
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Reviews

9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
8
Pricing
Carlitos01

350 Reviews
Carlitos01
Carlitos01
Top Review    7  
You Know!
Hubert James Marcel Taffin Givenchy, a giant of 1.98 m, became famous for having helped create the fashion myth of the "little black dress", which in his hands always remained simple and very tasteful.
During his career, he dressed divas such as Jackie Kennedy, Princess Grace of Monaco, the Duchess of Windsor, Jane Fonda, and Audrey Hepburn for whom he nurtured a strong friendliness for many years. Audrey was a true muse for Givenchy and they became inseparable accomplices after the shooting of "Breakfast at Tiffany's" in 1961. The bond of deep friendship between the two, lasted more than 40 years. It was to her that he dedicated his first perfume, L'Interdit (1957) Parfum.
Hubert has always been the paradigm of a true aristocrat. He was born in 1927 and his parents were the Marquises Lucien and Béatrice Taffin de Givenchy. He never got to meet his father who died when he was two years old. Perhaps this contributed to him growing up with a profound admiration for his mother, a sophisticated woman from whom he inherited elegance and a physique worthy of a movie star.
His grandfather, on the mother's side, owned a textile factory and had a huge display of fabrics that fascinated him. Naturally, he began to develop a strong interest in fashion design from the age of ten. A few years before Paco Rabanne, he began working in the atelier of Cristóbal Balenciaga who was his mentor. Influenced by the sculptural creations of the Spanish designer, he decided on his future far from the law studies that his family used to push him towards.
In 1945, at the age of 17, he settled in Paris and enrolled at the School of Fine Arts, already determined to dedicate himself to haute couture in the French capital. In 1952 he presented his first collection and two years later he launched his first ready-to-wear garments line. In the field of perfumery, and after the initial success achieved in 1957 with L'Interdit (1957) Parfum, he launched Monsieur de Givenchy Eau de Toilette in 1959, Givenchy III (1970) Eau de Toilette in 1970, the remarkable Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Toilette in 1974 and Ysatis Parfum in 1984. Still owner and master of all creative and managerial decisions of his brand, he launched Xeryus Eau de Toilette in 1986. The name derives from the Greek "Ξεριυς" and means "you know".
In 1988, the "Maison" with his surname was purchased by the luxury brand conglomerate LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) for $45 million. On that day, Givenchy said farewell to 36 years of independence but opened the door to the brand's continued expansion. Hubert remained Givenchy's creative director until he retired in 1995.

Xeryus Eau de Toilette is a seemingly simple, elegant, discreet, fresh, spicy and woody perfume, but with an enviable smoothness. Personally, I consider it a complex perfume, very well elaborated and where each note plays a primary role in the harmony of the whole. The fragrance can both be considered an aromatic and woody Fougère, as well as a moderately woody, and slightly spicy floral Fougère.
Due to its complexity, it is a real challenge to identify the notes individually.
The aperture is very citrusy, herbaceous, flowery, and lavender aromatized.
In the heart, and while the notes of citrus fade, the fragrance becomes a little spicier, and woodier, besides showing hints of green with cypress and juniper notes.
The base evolves in a woody and mossy way. It dries down with nuances of balsamic and leathery accords.
The original perfume was denser than the newer version, and this characterised the fragrance in a very special way. The longevity has changed little and, with three sprays of the current version, one is guaranteed to perceive the perfume for over eight hours. However, the sillage, which previously extended for a generous six feet and ensured almost three hours of projection, has given up that glow and shrunk to a 3~4-foot radius and less than two hours of projection. The fragrance remains very up to date, even if the strong vintage character has been transformed into a clean and pleasant barbershop. The perfume that now seems clean and bright, was once darker and more mysterious.

Time for rating this smooth woody Fougère:
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
- Opening: 9.0 (Citrusy, clean, fresh and smooth aromatic Fougère).
- Dry Down: 9.0 (Mossy, balmy, leathery and woody)
- Longevity: 8.0 (3 sprays last 8 hours)
- Sillage: 6.5 (up to 3~4 feet and two hours projection with 3 sprays)
- Uniqueness: 9.0 (Quite unique, but the scent reminds you of some other like the younger Égoïste Eau de Toilette from 1990 or the same age New West for Him Skinscent)
- Wearability: 9.0 (For any type of hot weather; it's a day perfume)
- Versatility: 9.0 (An "any place" perfume)
- Praise: 8.0 (A consensual woody Fougère that will get you well above average compliments)
- Quality: 8.5 (It fails in comparison with the vintage version)
- Presentation: 9.0 (very elegant)
- Price: 8.0 (Quite affordable for the current version; The 100ml flask currently sells for €35 in various web retailers)
___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___ ___
Overall rating: 8.45 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommendable;
- above 9 = definitely not to be missed;

My opinion: If you are in the mood for a smooth aromatic Fougère with a woody and leathery dry down then take a look at this Givenchy offer. It has an excellent value for money and it is very consensual, besides being very versatile and easy to wear. If you spot it at a nice price, it is even eligible for a blind purchase.

Music: Breakfast at Tiffany's Soundtrack Suite (by Henry Mancini)
3 Replies
10
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
10
Bottle
4
Pricing
ChicoRoch1

89 Reviews
ChicoRoch1
ChicoRoch1
   3  
Buy the art deco bottle
This complex fragrance with over 29 different notes is an old style fougere from 1986. A masculine creation with above average longevity. I wore it when it 1st came out as a teenager during the mid 1980s. I won't even look at the new bottle because i just know it's been ruined due to reformulations. The IFRA should be ashamed of themselves at how they've butchered these classic 70s 80s and 90s works of art. Still don't and WON'T understand the oakmoss restriction. I just won't, so i overpay for vintage but i don't care i want QUALITY. It's opening is harsh but good all the way to the drydown. I smell it all day long. Do yourself a favor and pick up a VINTAGE bottle asap. If you are a fan of classic REAL strong but not overpowering masculine scents from the golden age of fragrances then ebay will be your friend.
0 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Top Review    19  
the road not taken
Two fascinating moments in perfumery happened within a few years of each other. They are the “road not taken” moments. When Thierry Mugler’s Angel hit the scene, women’s perfumery was changed irrevocably. Florals, chypres, traditional orientals were instantly ancien régime. It was a classic paradigm shift, an overthrow of the old order. The floral survived by evolving into Fruity Florals, Orientals were diminished and became Gourmands, Chypres, god help us all, became outlaws and now are effectively black market commodities.

The specifics of how the men’s market changed in the 1980s differ in some respects from the changes in the feminine market, but the parallels and simultaneity of the changes make the similarities more important than the differences. Davidoff Cool Water was the masculine counterpart to Angel.

To say the aromatic fougère was supplanted by the aquatic fougère doesn’t sound like much, but the the newer, more tailored aromatic fougères had just started to surpass the dominance of the 70s big boys like Paco Rabanne Pour Homme and Azzaro Pour Homme. It was the greatest height of the fougère since the release of Fougère Royale in 1882. Musky fougères (YSL Kouros, Paco Rabanne Ténéré, Dior Jules) floral fougères (Caron’s Troisième Homme, Xeryus) spiced fougères (YSL Jazz, Jacomo Anthracite, Laroche Drakkar Noir) were taking the genre in exciting new directions. The fougère is structurally tied to both the oriental (tonka, balsam) and the chypre (oakmoss and coumarin tethering more effusive floral and spiced notes). It is an inherently rich genre and many perfumers were using the fougère structure to find new ideas. It’s worth considering that Michael Edward’s, the most authoritative figure in the nomenclature of perfumery, placed the fougère at the center of the wheel he created as a visual analogy for categorizing perfumes. It is the ur-perfume.

There were still a few great aromatic fougères produced, such as Partick by Patrick of Ireland (1999) a fougère in the chypre direction, and YSL Rive Gauche pour Homme (2003), but for the most part, after the advent of of Cool Water (1988) the aquatic fougère ruled with an iron fist. Dyhydromyrcenol made for the creation of fougères that would have the volume of the best fougère from the 1970s, but lacked the complexity and therefore matched the feminine counterparts that were becoming ever louder, ever simpler fruity florals and candied gourmands. Feminism’s effect on perfumery changed or waned, depending on your perspective, and the empowered feminines like Aromtics Elixir, Scherrer de Scherrer, Dior Diorella, YSL Rive Gauche became ‘Old Lady Perfumes’. Hypergender became a stylistic norm, and countless straight couples could be spotted on the town: her, with hair three feet high and rising dosed with Poison or Angel; him with slicked back hair drenched in Cool Water.

I am sad over the loss of the pre-1988 aromatic fougère. It was just about to take off into some great places. Let’s not forget that these perfume were also the basic blue-print for the 1980’s mens’ power frag. Take a fougère, exchange the lavender for some more spicy elements, and freeze-dry the wood. Voila! Krizia Uomo, Chanel Antaeus, Patou pour Homme. Sometimes the player of a group known for largesse is the one to go for. Scherrer de Scherrer, a chypre that could give Aromatics Elixir a black eye is my go to green/leather chypre. Xeryus has some of that well-dressed thug appeal, seeming more like a perfume for Craig’s Bond than Moore’s. Or perhaps Dench’s M.

Xeryus is becoming on you in the way it allows to you swagger a bit. It lends authority. It’s a remarkably detailed perfume that tells you not to sweat the details. It has a vaguely threatening edge at the same time it lets you be a pretty boy. Great combo of attributes. Definitely a perfume to play with.
3 Replies
Abitvintage

28 Reviews
Abitvintage
Abitvintage
Helpful Review    3  
One word... sexy.
Sampling this in the store, I loved it so much I bought some for myself.I wore this quite a bit in the late 80's. I especially loved the green notes, and the slightly oriental edge. I had the splash, so very little was applied, and just enough. Very sexy. Come to think of it, I should probably buy some for my husband.
0 Replies

Statements

HugoMontezHugoMontez 10 months ago
A good herbal-spicy-woody classic with sweet undertones. I prefer the red spicy Rouge flanker though, but this is pretty nice. 3/5
0 Replies
Syzygy73Syzygy73 2 years ago
Antaeus without the skank. Simple as that.
0 Replies
Carlitos01Carlitos01 3 years ago
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
Fresh, spicy & woody, yet retaining an enviable smoothness. Looking for a great Fougère? Give this Givenchy vintage a try. Very affordable!
0 Replies
HermeshHermesh 7 years ago
6
Scent
7.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Spicy-mossy conifers with citric undertone. Complex, but yet somewhat one-dimensional (reformulated version).
0 Replies

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