05/31/2020
Trollo
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Chypre or no chypre, that is the question..
In 1917, Françis Coty created his fragrance "Chypre", which became the eponym for an entire genre of perfumes: A fresh top note, floral heart, mossy-woody, warm base. The ingredients are mostly found in the Mediterranean, hence the name "Chypre" ("Cyprus").
Almost a decade earlier, the perfumer Godet, who is hardly (yet) known today, developed a fragrance of the same name. Is this a chypre or not? When I first applied it, I really had to ask myself this question.
Discovered more by chance, I was attracted by this filigree and unusual bottle, which was offered for sale by a salesman in other European countries. Still closed, sealed, even in the original carton. I bought it blind as a reward for too much work in the last time I had to wait a while for my little treasure
Then I finally had it in my hand: a bottle that, despite its delicacy, is a real treat for the hand, with a glass stopper that was decorated with the "G" for the perfume house Godet on top. Not a Baccarat flacon, I would guess, but one made of glass that was filled in the 1940s. Can that be true? They say that the Godet perfume house had to give up during the economic crisis at the end of the 1920s? Hm, historical research for the interested person may clarify this in the future ...
Despite all the persistence, the glass stopper of my new acquisition had to give in to my attempts to open it after about five hours. A slightly alcoholic scent rose towards me, not untypical for very old scents that have bergamot in the top note. The flacon had been closed for decades, a little air was keeping it from developing in a slightly different way.
A distinct bergamot note developed during application, which very quickly turned into a flowery-creamy heart note. Rose and jasmine perhaps? For a moment I had the impression that a carnation would show itself, but I'm not sure. Very quickly a creamy, balsamic note blends in. Benzoin was mentioned in other comments / statements, that might fit. Maybe also some amber and a little bit of incense, which gives the heart note a lot of spice. Once I had the impression of leather, but only very briefly. Was it perhaps sandalwood, which can sometimes look leathery with the very old vintage scents? At the same time, an increasingly mossy note resonates velvety from the outset, which remains as a base for hours. It's not a dominant note, though, but rather calm and balanced.
Actually, I don't like chypre scents: oak moss is usually much too dominant for me, so it doesn't suit me at all.
I had recently evaluated the chyprette by A. Neuffer and was surprised by the naturalness of the oak moss used there; 'the first chypre I like', as I put it.
I can no longer maintain this statement: "Chypre" by Godet is undoubtedly a small masterpiece: as a chance discovery and blind purchase a bull's eye: it is a quiet fragrance, a calm and relaxed and also relaxing scent. Not intrusive, but discreet and reserved, a fragrance for both sexes.
Almost a decade earlier, the perfumer Godet, who is hardly (yet) known today, developed a fragrance of the same name. Is this a chypre or not? When I first applied it, I really had to ask myself this question.
Discovered more by chance, I was attracted by this filigree and unusual bottle, which was offered for sale by a salesman in other European countries. Still closed, sealed, even in the original carton. I bought it blind as a reward for too much work in the last time I had to wait a while for my little treasure
Then I finally had it in my hand: a bottle that, despite its delicacy, is a real treat for the hand, with a glass stopper that was decorated with the "G" for the perfume house Godet on top. Not a Baccarat flacon, I would guess, but one made of glass that was filled in the 1940s. Can that be true? They say that the Godet perfume house had to give up during the economic crisis at the end of the 1920s? Hm, historical research for the interested person may clarify this in the future ...
Despite all the persistence, the glass stopper of my new acquisition had to give in to my attempts to open it after about five hours. A slightly alcoholic scent rose towards me, not untypical for very old scents that have bergamot in the top note. The flacon had been closed for decades, a little air was keeping it from developing in a slightly different way.
A distinct bergamot note developed during application, which very quickly turned into a flowery-creamy heart note. Rose and jasmine perhaps? For a moment I had the impression that a carnation would show itself, but I'm not sure. Very quickly a creamy, balsamic note blends in. Benzoin was mentioned in other comments / statements, that might fit. Maybe also some amber and a little bit of incense, which gives the heart note a lot of spice. Once I had the impression of leather, but only very briefly. Was it perhaps sandalwood, which can sometimes look leathery with the very old vintage scents? At the same time, an increasingly mossy note resonates velvety from the outset, which remains as a base for hours. It's not a dominant note, though, but rather calm and balanced.
Actually, I don't like chypre scents: oak moss is usually much too dominant for me, so it doesn't suit me at all.
I had recently evaluated the chyprette by A. Neuffer and was surprised by the naturalness of the oak moss used there; 'the first chypre I like', as I put it.
I can no longer maintain this statement: "Chypre" by Godet is undoubtedly a small masterpiece: as a chance discovery and blind purchase a bull's eye: it is a quiet fragrance, a calm and relaxed and also relaxing scent. Not intrusive, but discreet and reserved, a fragrance for both sexes.
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