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01/10/2020
SchatzSucher
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SchatzSucher
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52
The new robe does not have to hide
The Grès fashion house was founded in 1935 by Germaine Émilie Krebs (1903 - 1993), better known as Madame Grès. An important pioneer of haute couture, she made a name for herself in the 1940s with her dresses, which combined elements of Greek antiquity with minimalist and timeless designs. She counted celebrities like Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Edith Piaf among her regular customers.
And that a famous fashion house also brings fragrances onto the market is almost obligatory. After all, what is a beautiful robe without the matching fragrance?
So Cabochard appeared in 1959 and quickly became very popular. Created by Bernard Chant, who also created fragrances for Estée Lauder, Clinique and Aramis, among others.
Cabochard is a classic chypre with spicy and leathery tones. I was able to test the EdP some time ago, but I didn't really get along with the scent, although I'm usually very fond of the scent classics.
The scent was too dense, too overpowering, and I felt disguised. And it wasn't even the leather note that bothered me (as is often the case with scents) Leather notes were represented differently in older fragrances than in modern fragrances. I often find them more natural, softer and more accessible than in modern fragrances. Leather has a rather deterrent, artificial, pungent and intrusive effect on me.
Like many a fragrance classic, Cabochard has been revised and reissued several times. And we all know that revisions are not always to the satisfaction of the consumer.
In 2019 Cabochard has been re-released and I have ersoukt the EdT here, on good luck. At a more than reasonable price. And I'm really excited about this scent Cabochard 2019 has everything that makes a real chypre fragrance, but still appears in a modern garment.
Wonderful is already the crunchy green prelude with galbanum and its characteristic scent, which makes e.g. Chanel N°19 so unmistakable. In addition a strong portion of aldehydes, which provide a light soapiness. Something herbaceous is also noticeable.
Quite quickly flower chords are added. They remain tart and unsweet and no floral note stands out particularly clearly. The galbanum note also continues to be present.
The flowers are joined by spicy tones and a fine and very beautifully worked leather note. This leather note doesn't push itself too much into the foreground and doesn't spoil the fragrance for me. I am especially relieved about this, because it remains nicely well-behaved in the bridle and doesn't sting in the nose.
A touch of wood I mean also to perceive.
And last but not least, the oak moss that gives chypre fragrances their special character in general. Oakmoss has been frowned upon and notorious for years and is now practically no longer allowed to be used in fragrances.
Several fragrances were mutilated, robbed of their soul or had to breathe out their life. The time of the chypre scents seemed to be over. Especially since the market was flooded with countless clean roses, fruity fresh good mood scents, oud orientals and gourmands But now it seems that successful oak moss substitutes have finally been found and chypre fragrances can be revived. Which makes me very happy, because I am still very fond of chypre.
The classic Cabochard has been very well transferred to modern times. The fragrance is a little lighter and more airy than the original version, the weight has been taken off a little, here and there the contours have been smoothed a little and everything has been given a modern touch, and yet the original Cabochard can still be recognized very well.
The fragrance still swims against the current, it doesn't join the almost endless series of arbitrary fresh-happy-flowery-sugar-waters, it is in no way cute and adapted and I really like that.
Cabochard 2019 also has a very good shelf life, 8-9 hours are easily in there. The scent is very well perceived in the first 2-3 hours, until it gradually recedes.
The bottle is beautifully designed with a few subtleties and the black ribbon. The 100 ml size fits very well in the hand.
And also here I can confirm that Cabochard is suitable for men without further ado.
One gets the scent in the net amazingly cheap, but I find that it is sold far below value, because it can easily keep up with the high-priced scents. Because cheap doesn't smell at all with Cabochard.
Unfortunately, the Grès fragrance house has at some point sunk a little into insignificance. After Cabochard in 1959, there were still a few scents here and there, but none really stuck. In 1990, Cabotine, which I described in a statement as a wild bouquet of flowers, was released as another fragrance with great recognition value. Then there were countless offshoots of Cabotine, here and there a new scent, but nothing really wanted to inspire more The fragrances that were released from the 90s onwards were already no longer part of the Madame Grès company. She retired in the mid-80s and died in 1993 in poor circumstances.
Perhaps the Lalique Group will succeed in giving the once great name Grès a little more momentum again if it continues along this path. I would appreciate it very much Here you have done everything right and have given a great classic fragrance a new look, but without raping the original character.
I would like to thank Heikeso once again for this wonderful fragrance experience!
And that a famous fashion house also brings fragrances onto the market is almost obligatory. After all, what is a beautiful robe without the matching fragrance?
So Cabochard appeared in 1959 and quickly became very popular. Created by Bernard Chant, who also created fragrances for Estée Lauder, Clinique and Aramis, among others.
Cabochard is a classic chypre with spicy and leathery tones. I was able to test the EdP some time ago, but I didn't really get along with the scent, although I'm usually very fond of the scent classics.
The scent was too dense, too overpowering, and I felt disguised. And it wasn't even the leather note that bothered me (as is often the case with scents) Leather notes were represented differently in older fragrances than in modern fragrances. I often find them more natural, softer and more accessible than in modern fragrances. Leather has a rather deterrent, artificial, pungent and intrusive effect on me.
Like many a fragrance classic, Cabochard has been revised and reissued several times. And we all know that revisions are not always to the satisfaction of the consumer.
In 2019 Cabochard has been re-released and I have ersoukt the EdT here, on good luck. At a more than reasonable price. And I'm really excited about this scent Cabochard 2019 has everything that makes a real chypre fragrance, but still appears in a modern garment.
Wonderful is already the crunchy green prelude with galbanum and its characteristic scent, which makes e.g. Chanel N°19 so unmistakable. In addition a strong portion of aldehydes, which provide a light soapiness. Something herbaceous is also noticeable.
Quite quickly flower chords are added. They remain tart and unsweet and no floral note stands out particularly clearly. The galbanum note also continues to be present.
The flowers are joined by spicy tones and a fine and very beautifully worked leather note. This leather note doesn't push itself too much into the foreground and doesn't spoil the fragrance for me. I am especially relieved about this, because it remains nicely well-behaved in the bridle and doesn't sting in the nose.
A touch of wood I mean also to perceive.
And last but not least, the oak moss that gives chypre fragrances their special character in general. Oakmoss has been frowned upon and notorious for years and is now practically no longer allowed to be used in fragrances.
Several fragrances were mutilated, robbed of their soul or had to breathe out their life. The time of the chypre scents seemed to be over. Especially since the market was flooded with countless clean roses, fruity fresh good mood scents, oud orientals and gourmands But now it seems that successful oak moss substitutes have finally been found and chypre fragrances can be revived. Which makes me very happy, because I am still very fond of chypre.
The classic Cabochard has been very well transferred to modern times. The fragrance is a little lighter and more airy than the original version, the weight has been taken off a little, here and there the contours have been smoothed a little and everything has been given a modern touch, and yet the original Cabochard can still be recognized very well.
The fragrance still swims against the current, it doesn't join the almost endless series of arbitrary fresh-happy-flowery-sugar-waters, it is in no way cute and adapted and I really like that.
Cabochard 2019 also has a very good shelf life, 8-9 hours are easily in there. The scent is very well perceived in the first 2-3 hours, until it gradually recedes.
The bottle is beautifully designed with a few subtleties and the black ribbon. The 100 ml size fits very well in the hand.
And also here I can confirm that Cabochard is suitable for men without further ado.
One gets the scent in the net amazingly cheap, but I find that it is sold far below value, because it can easily keep up with the high-priced scents. Because cheap doesn't smell at all with Cabochard.
Unfortunately, the Grès fragrance house has at some point sunk a little into insignificance. After Cabochard in 1959, there were still a few scents here and there, but none really stuck. In 1990, Cabotine, which I described in a statement as a wild bouquet of flowers, was released as another fragrance with great recognition value. Then there were countless offshoots of Cabotine, here and there a new scent, but nothing really wanted to inspire more The fragrances that were released from the 90s onwards were already no longer part of the Madame Grès company. She retired in the mid-80s and died in 1993 in poor circumstances.
Perhaps the Lalique Group will succeed in giving the once great name Grès a little more momentum again if it continues along this path. I would appreciate it very much Here you have done everything right and have given a great classic fragrance a new look, but without raping the original character.
I would like to thank Heikeso once again for this wonderful fragrance experience!
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