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08/16/2020
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"She only does what marketing wants" or to the point, honey!
Madame Alix Gres (1903-1993) opened her fashion house in 1934.
In 1942 she presented a collection in Paris that consisted only of red, white and blue clothes. A clear reference to the tricolour and an allusion that the Nazis initially ignored. But when Madame raised the French flag in front of her shop, the occupying forces forced her to close.
Perhaps Gres' reputation for having been particularly strong-willed is nourished by this story, among others.
In any case, Alix Gres was, together with Balenciaga and Dior, one of the great fashion designers of the 20th century.
Her famous fragrance "Cabochard", a masterpiece by Bernard Chant, refers in its central leather accord to Germaine Cellier's "Bandit".
(My mother used to wear "Cabochard" during the day and "Bandit" in the evening. The two complement each other perfectly)
What is special about the classic "Cabochard" is the inclusion of a fine citrus chord in the composition, a chord that has hardly any acidity and thus forms a wonderful contrast to the woody, leathery base.
This is only a short introduction. It took this preface to introduce the flanker "Chérie", which was created in 2019 on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of "Cabochard", and to distinguish it from its mother.
On Fragrantica.com you can find a longer article by perfume specialist Miguel Matos about "Chérie".
Matos advised the manufacturing company and was significantly involved in the design of the flanker.
The aim was to modernise C. without letting his mother's cool esprit go to waste.
Perfumer Dorothée Piot received the demanding briefing from the client and decided to create a high-contrast perfume to attract younger female buyers to the brand.
Now I don't belong to the target group, so you probably won't be surprised that Piot's new development doesn't - to put it mildly - pull me off my feet.
For my taste, too much has been packed into the fragrance to make it modern and appealing, a "woolly milk scent that lays eggs".
Here it seems to me that not the old "Cabochard" has been the reference point, but other megasellers of the last 10 years. So the aim is to lure younger customers with a fragrance that merely picks up on their previous consumer habits instead of developing them in a new direction.
"Chérie 2019" starts with citrus and fruit (artificial pear ,) in the heart, the white-flowering plants, which have been popular for years, are found in trio (orange blossom, narcissus, freesia) and very quickly I notice the dominant part of the fragrance: scratchy, synthetic patchouli, to my great regret, paired with a so-called "praline note"
On my skin this mix is neither pleasant nor innovative, because (as mentioned above) you have smelled similar things very often in the last years.
Besides, I do not consider "Chérie" to be a chypre, but would rather put it in the Fruitchouly category.
And the leather?
You can perceive it, but it behaves completely different from the classic. Here in the "Chérie" it is very shy and lets the praline take precedence.
By the company itself, the fragrance is known as
"offering enhanced radiance, tenderness and a gourmet touch."
I can't detect any tenderness in the patch-variation, which is very annoying for me, but I can definitely detect the "gourmet touch".
Advertising boxes: "She only does what she wants. Do you?"
Of course I do !
And in this case that means writing off "chérie" as a bad buy.
Looks kind of familiar, doesn't it?
There was something at Dior...
miss Dior", the bitter, elegant chypre damsel, became "Miss Dior Chérie" (although the first "Chérie" was still great - and then followed various flankers over flankers, which today hardly anyone can tell apart... (but somehow they are called "Chérie" more often).
However, Parfums Gres belong to a different group than Dior, and are produced by the Lalique group. On the company's website, the fragrance is offered for 69 euros, but you can find it on the net from 18 euros/100 ml.
Sillage and durability are very good, for me, who get headaches from the fragrance, no advantage. I would like to mention one thing: The teenage tester K, who is in our household. (18 years old) does not want to have given the fragrance as a present.
There's no way "chérie" is going to be our new sweetheart.
In 1942 she presented a collection in Paris that consisted only of red, white and blue clothes. A clear reference to the tricolour and an allusion that the Nazis initially ignored. But when Madame raised the French flag in front of her shop, the occupying forces forced her to close.
Perhaps Gres' reputation for having been particularly strong-willed is nourished by this story, among others.
In any case, Alix Gres was, together with Balenciaga and Dior, one of the great fashion designers of the 20th century.
Her famous fragrance "Cabochard", a masterpiece by Bernard Chant, refers in its central leather accord to Germaine Cellier's "Bandit".
(My mother used to wear "Cabochard" during the day and "Bandit" in the evening. The two complement each other perfectly)
What is special about the classic "Cabochard" is the inclusion of a fine citrus chord in the composition, a chord that has hardly any acidity and thus forms a wonderful contrast to the woody, leathery base.
This is only a short introduction. It took this preface to introduce the flanker "Chérie", which was created in 2019 on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of "Cabochard", and to distinguish it from its mother.
On Fragrantica.com you can find a longer article by perfume specialist Miguel Matos about "Chérie".
Matos advised the manufacturing company and was significantly involved in the design of the flanker.
The aim was to modernise C. without letting his mother's cool esprit go to waste.
Perfumer Dorothée Piot received the demanding briefing from the client and decided to create a high-contrast perfume to attract younger female buyers to the brand.
Now I don't belong to the target group, so you probably won't be surprised that Piot's new development doesn't - to put it mildly - pull me off my feet.
For my taste, too much has been packed into the fragrance to make it modern and appealing, a "woolly milk scent that lays eggs".
Here it seems to me that not the old "Cabochard" has been the reference point, but other megasellers of the last 10 years. So the aim is to lure younger customers with a fragrance that merely picks up on their previous consumer habits instead of developing them in a new direction.
"Chérie 2019" starts with citrus and fruit (artificial pear ,) in the heart, the white-flowering plants, which have been popular for years, are found in trio (orange blossom, narcissus, freesia) and very quickly I notice the dominant part of the fragrance: scratchy, synthetic patchouli, to my great regret, paired with a so-called "praline note"
On my skin this mix is neither pleasant nor innovative, because (as mentioned above) you have smelled similar things very often in the last years.
Besides, I do not consider "Chérie" to be a chypre, but would rather put it in the Fruitchouly category.
And the leather?
You can perceive it, but it behaves completely different from the classic. Here in the "Chérie" it is very shy and lets the praline take precedence.
By the company itself, the fragrance is known as
"offering enhanced radiance, tenderness and a gourmet touch."
I can't detect any tenderness in the patch-variation, which is very annoying for me, but I can definitely detect the "gourmet touch".
Advertising boxes: "She only does what she wants. Do you?"
Of course I do !
And in this case that means writing off "chérie" as a bad buy.
Looks kind of familiar, doesn't it?
There was something at Dior...
miss Dior", the bitter, elegant chypre damsel, became "Miss Dior Chérie" (although the first "Chérie" was still great - and then followed various flankers over flankers, which today hardly anyone can tell apart... (but somehow they are called "Chérie" more often).
However, Parfums Gres belong to a different group than Dior, and are produced by the Lalique group. On the company's website, the fragrance is offered for 69 euros, but you can find it on the net from 18 euros/100 ml.
Sillage and durability are very good, for me, who get headaches from the fragrance, no advantage. I would like to mention one thing: The teenage tester K, who is in our household. (18 years old) does not want to have given the fragrance as a present.
There's no way "chérie" is going to be our new sweetheart.
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