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Notes02/09/2020
Chanelle
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Chanelle
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Guerlain's new ways to the 190th
Guerlain looks back on 190 years and this fragrance is now supposed to be the one that duly describes the history of this company?
Probably not.
He's great, no doubt. I'm not just saying this because I've been walking around for months with the "version for the poor", the EdP, as a signature scent. But because it is top craftsmanship, modern - without copying! -is durable and portable.
But! Is he worthy? What do you want him to tell us? Why is he the way he is (almost pseudo-eco?)
I have to bring up a statement from Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's rock star perfumer. He said, mutatis mutandis, that he was paid by Guerlain to bring profits to the original French company. Refreshingly honest, a little cheeky and disillusioning towards the customer. We all want a little eyewash! Nevertheless, it is a fact that Guerlain is not the Salvation Army, but LVMH.
Before, when Guerlain was still Guerlain, the boss and head of the dynasty had almost driven the cart into the wall, because he created good but not saleable fragrances (e.g. Mahora, who actually has a lot in common with 190 Ans), and somehow lost touch, the clientele preferred new directions (Calvin Klein sends his regards!), but he could not successfully go in them (Secret Intention...).
Thierry had already created some groundbreaking fragrances when he set out to put Guerlain back on top, and LVMH had the penuns lying around.
CUT.
Recently, a new world order took place for Guerlain: a change in the French top management. And already another big cleaning under the scents began. This is not the subject here, but should explain why 190 Absolu (the refinement of 190 Ans) is just right to represent "Guerlain 190 years".
It reflects the current status of French fragrance art, and says with all the fragrance building blocks: "Guerlain"!
The top note, which is less sweet than the EdP, smells fresh and orange peel and a little almond. Orange is a big trend at Guerlain, and not only there.
Honey and everything else that the honeycomb produces is the trademark of Guerlain, and the blossom honey that is used here smells extremely natural and of high quality.
Almond and ylang ylang carry the scent and are at the same time something like the "new guerlinade", i.e. you can find them in numerous current fragrances, and Thierry is a big fan of them, as well as of benzoin. He practically never goes to the lab without it. Thierry = benzoin. Everything very finely balanced.
The iconic flacon is a no-brainer, only the bee on the neck I find a bit wanted but not skillful. But that's just the artistic demand for which I and Guerlain have been not quite at par in recent years. (JonOne! lol)
All in all: 190 Ans Absolu is the logical conclusion and exactly the fragrance that makes Guerlain "today".
He's 100%.
Love him or hate him.
Probably not.
He's great, no doubt. I'm not just saying this because I've been walking around for months with the "version for the poor", the EdP, as a signature scent. But because it is top craftsmanship, modern - without copying! -is durable and portable.
But! Is he worthy? What do you want him to tell us? Why is he the way he is (almost pseudo-eco?)
I have to bring up a statement from Thierry Wasser, Guerlain's rock star perfumer. He said, mutatis mutandis, that he was paid by Guerlain to bring profits to the original French company. Refreshingly honest, a little cheeky and disillusioning towards the customer. We all want a little eyewash! Nevertheless, it is a fact that Guerlain is not the Salvation Army, but LVMH.
Before, when Guerlain was still Guerlain, the boss and head of the dynasty had almost driven the cart into the wall, because he created good but not saleable fragrances (e.g. Mahora, who actually has a lot in common with 190 Ans), and somehow lost touch, the clientele preferred new directions (Calvin Klein sends his regards!), but he could not successfully go in them (Secret Intention...).
Thierry had already created some groundbreaking fragrances when he set out to put Guerlain back on top, and LVMH had the penuns lying around.
CUT.
Recently, a new world order took place for Guerlain: a change in the French top management. And already another big cleaning under the scents began. This is not the subject here, but should explain why 190 Absolu (the refinement of 190 Ans) is just right to represent "Guerlain 190 years".
It reflects the current status of French fragrance art, and says with all the fragrance building blocks: "Guerlain"!
The top note, which is less sweet than the EdP, smells fresh and orange peel and a little almond. Orange is a big trend at Guerlain, and not only there.
Honey and everything else that the honeycomb produces is the trademark of Guerlain, and the blossom honey that is used here smells extremely natural and of high quality.
Almond and ylang ylang carry the scent and are at the same time something like the "new guerlinade", i.e. you can find them in numerous current fragrances, and Thierry is a big fan of them, as well as of benzoin. He practically never goes to the lab without it. Thierry = benzoin. Everything very finely balanced.
The iconic flacon is a no-brainer, only the bee on the neck I find a bit wanted but not skillful. But that's just the artistic demand for which I and Guerlain have been not quite at par in recent years. (JonOne! lol)
All in all: 190 Ans Absolu is the logical conclusion and exactly the fragrance that makes Guerlain "today".
He's 100%.
Love him or hate him.
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