Chamade 1969 Eau de Parfum

Chamade (Eau de Parfum) by Guerlain
Bottle Design Robert Granai, Raymond Guerlain
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8.4 / 10 219 Ratings
Chamade (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1969. The scent is floral-spicy. The longevity is above-average. It was last marketed by LVMH. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top Notes AldehydesAldehydes BergamotBergamot HyacinthHyacinth JasmineJasmine RoseRose
Heart Notes Heart Notes LilacLilac GalbanumGalbanum CloveClove Lily of the valleyLily of the valley
Base Notes Base Notes AmberAmber BenzoinBenzoin Peru balsamPeru balsam SandalwoodSandalwood Tolu balmTolu balm VanillaVanilla VetiverVetiver

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Ratings
Scent
8.4219 Ratings
Longevity
8.5157 Ratings
Sillage
7.4157 Ratings
Bottle
8.9164 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 21.01.2023.
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Reviews

8 in-depth fragrance descriptions
9
Bottle
8
Sillage
9
Longevity
9
Scent
Serenissima
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Top Review 23  
the heart as a shell
For his 1969 appeared, as always extremely lovingly composed fragrance Jean-Paul Guerlain deliberately chose the flacon shape of the upside-down heart.
This was designed as a cult flacon as early as 1912 for the company; as a symbol of eternal femininity: a subtle fusion of straight lines and curves, with a heart-shaped closure.
But above all, he wanted this shape to be a bowl, a sheltering vessel for all the feelings that touch the heart.
None of it should be lost, which would be quite possible with a usual pointed heart.
I am thinking, for example, of the "Weeping Heart," whose pink blossom weeps white tears.
For Jean-Paul Guerlain, a lover of all things beautiful, hope, love, passion and, of course, sadness and tears should be safely tucked away as part of life.

Just like his Eau de Parfum "Chamade" in its special flacon; described by himself as a "perfume with the pulsating rhythm of a beating heart".
There is a statement authorized by the House of Guerlain about this fragrance that I do not wish to omit.
The term "chamade" comes from the Napoleonic era.
The drum, as a means of communication between general and troops, passed on important information in the various whirls: for example, the "chamade" announced the surrender of a town.
This type of communication was necessary; as was "trooping the colour" or the "taps". Both are still common today.
The troops, thrown together from different regions, could usually neither read nor write; so the regimental flag showed them where they lived (house numbers did not exist in those days) or the "taps" called for night rest.
This is shown by his somewhat lax German text: "Soldaten müssen zu Bette geh'n und nicht so lange beim Mädchen steh'n!" - The captain said so!"

Today the term "chamade" simply stands as a symbol for the "throbbing of the heart".
And this floral oriental fragrance heart throbs in a particularly beautiful way:
"It is an ode to love, bursting from the branches like spring blossoms."
This Jean-Paul Guerlain was not only a gifted perfumer; he was also a poet!
For this quote goes back to him.

Radiant aldehydes not only welcome in the company of bergamot; they remain faithful to this work of art until the end.
Hyacinth, which always has a very strong scent, makes an appearance right after with the classic floral beauties of rose and intensely fragrant white jasmine.
They spread gleefully on the skin, before large lilac umbels and the lovely, somewhat cheeky lily of the valley add their spicy-floral aroma, which is given additional fragrant shape by cloves.
After this olfactory explosion, the now developing base is wonderfully balsamic; mainly contributed by tolu balsam and the creamy creamy vanilla.
But the still radiant aldehydes entice benzoin and ambergris; they want to emphasize their glow and radiance even more - they also succeed: a final fragrance fireworks are ignited!
An impressive symphony of fragrances with the original Guerlain sound is created!
For here, too, is the fragrant triumvirate of the "Guerlinade" of jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.

Thus, "Chamade" by the many different nuances of fragrance and color becomes the fragrance of every woman who pursues her inclinations with a clear conscience and can not be influenced by the outside.
(Under the aspect of the year of publication 1969, this is already a very emancipated fragrance approach!)

But enough drumming:
"Chamade" is a feminine as well as lively companion for several hours with the well-known charming Guerlain scent progression, which leaves nothing to be desired.

From this family of five generations of fragrance wizards, Jean-Paul Guerlain is still the most fascinating personality for me.
He did not simply further develop what his ancestors created; he had a signature all his own that is still clearly evident in his creations today.

"Chamade" is also one of these works of art created with great love for women and flowers. I thank Marieposa, who offered me a bottling of this fragrance.
My love: how could I have refused this?
11 Replies
10
Bottle
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
10
Scent
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Top Review 11  
Regal and Divine
Somehow Guerlain CHAMADE survived in all its glory and splendor and nobility. Nearly everything else chez Guerlain went under the accountant's knife and ended up looking like a botched nose job, like the mother of an ex beau of mine. She was so beautiful before, I know because I saw photos hanging in their home. She had a nose with character, which made her look strong and wise. Then she went under the knife and came out looking like she'd had Christie Brinkley's pug pushed into her face. As though she were Mr Potato Head with changeable face parts. The result was infelicitous, to say the least. Yes, sad to say: she looked more like Mr. Potato Head than she did like a human being and nothing like her former self. So, no: Michael Jackson was not alone, may they both rest in peace. Moral of the story: don't go under the knife, you'll come out looking worse than before and, on top of that, you'll be scarred for life with the badge of your low self-esteem.

Nothing of the sort has happened to CHAMADE, one of a cluster of perfumes which I reach for when I'm looking for genuine beauty. It's a perfectly balanced composition of mixed floral and various and sundry other notes with a light aldehydic opening--some days it seems stronger than others--followed by the sudden plummeting of tons of rose petals from above as though they have been released like pent-up raindrops trapped in a cloud until God or reasonable facsimile scratches the glass. In a swoosh they tumble down in all their glory from the heavens onto my head.

The scent is truly divine, and every time I wear this perfume I recognize again how so much of what goes by the name of "perfume" these days is really nothing of the kind. We have lots of fragrances and scents, but how many bona fide perfumes are being launched these days?

CHAMADE has survived, a reminder of the good old days, when perfumers toiled for years before launching a single creation rather than rolling out dozens of random-note generator Lego castles at the same time.
0 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Top Review 8  
Chamade
Chamade captures the olfactory gestalt of Springtime like no other perfume. It smells like fresh stems, flowers, moisture, soil and rot. Succulence and indolence. More than a summary of notes, though, it smells like the sensations of Spring. It combines the acceleration of exploding growth and the leisurely pace of a world thawing over time. The rush of hyacinth pushing against the constraint of snow and pollen exploding from flowering trees convey the good-natured horniness and impatience of youth, yet the rebirth of the season is a free pass to young and old alike. The juxtaposition of the cool, crisp greenness and the burnished languor of the base, create a tension, an indeterminacy. It comments on one season but refers to the cyclical nature of time, posing questions without offering conclusions.

Springtime is classically the season of potential and therefore, expectation. It suggests wide-open horizons and dreams of love and success, but a crocus blooms only briefly and not all the chicks that hatch survive. Spring is equally passionate and cruel.

And I thought opera was melodramatic.

Chamade expounds on all of the above better than I could ever hope to. I avoid describing artwork as great because the ‘greats’ are usually a tally of opinions and ‘musts’. Greatness is held out as a threshold, a line to be crossed. Still, greatness in art has precedent. Great works are perennially rediscovered by individuals and generations because they are significant and remarkable. They express the meaning of their times at the same time that they offer advice to future generations.

Chamade is a great perfume and it can be read on many levels, another attribute of great work. Its meaning for you could be Springtime, the story and the era of the novel after which it is named (Francoise Sagan’s La Chamade) or the excellence of its composition. Most ‘great’ perfumes are cited for the measurable effect they had on the state of the art. Chamade didn’t spawn movements and artistic trends in that way that Fougère Royale, Mitsouko, Shalimar and other iconic perfumes did. Its lasting influence is its capacity to frame broader meanings through expert composition.

I know that my take on Chamade comes off like a litany of cheap platitudes, and I apologize for that. I’ve tried to write about Chamade numerous time, each time throwing out what I’ve written as it never seemed to capture the pertinence of Chamade. I still don’t do Chamade justice, but I’ve changed my goal from understanding it to acknowledging it.

froms scenthurdle.com
2 Replies
7.5
Bottle
5
Sillage
5
Longevity
4
Scent
WRoth

154 Reviews
WRoth
WRoth
Very helpful Review 3  
Chamade
This fragrance opens with an intense floral bouquet and a dash of pepper. The spice adds zest to a composition which without it would have been too simple. As the notes bloom on my skin, I identify jasmine and rose as the key players of the accord. Once the flowers burn up most of their intense sweetness, they reveal a smooth base of spices and wood. A dash of ambery and creamy notes joins the three in a harmonious union. The fragrance becomes lighter and creamier as it progresses, reminding me more and more of old-fashioned barber soap. This is the last stage of the scent’s development.
0 Replies
LiliumLibido

51 Reviews
LiliumLibido
LiliumLibido
Helpful Review 7  
Airy yet full bodied
A superb fragrance!

The aldehydes immediately take flight with the hyacinth, backed up with the soft sensuality of rose and jasmine, but with the brightness of bergamot: this first effect is one of gentle freshness, an ideal introduction to the rest of the composition.

In the heart is an another paradoxical combination: the fullness of lilac and lily and the valley, the green bite of galbanum, with a hint of spice (some clove, yes, but something else as well... I'm just not sure what) that seems to underscore the slightly spicy edge of the hyacinth from the top.

The base, oddly enough for a floral, could be perfect for any typical oriental scent, yet Jean Paul Guerlain found it appropriate for Chamade, and he was right: while on its own, it would be a warm, sweet, full bodied concoction, in this case it gives the earlier notes an unparalleled voluptuous feel.
(though I think that while all the basenotes have their role and place, the star trio here is the Peru Balsam/sandalwood/vetiver, it prevents the scent from getting too sweet, tones down the florals while carrying their sillage)

Chamade arrives almost muffled in its tone, a slow and steady rhythmic beat, not particularly melodious but impossible to get out of one's head. It's a cello, or a barytone, deeply hued, warm and glowing. Dramatic and compelling in that it really doesn't come off as a scent that wants to be noticed but its substance and texture are truly artful.

I do believe that all scents are appropriate for just about anything if you happen to be in the mood for it, but Chamade really has that top drawer classic feel that speaks more of 7 figure fund raisers than dashes to the local convenience store.
0 Replies
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IndolicIndolic 14 days ago
The caravan‘s waiting; just one last spray… Chamade, Chamade…. my heart beats for you.
0 Replies

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