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Notes06/08/2021
Serenissima
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Serenissima
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23
the heart as a shell
For his 1969 appeared, as always extremely lovingly composed fragrance Jean-Paul Guerlain deliberately chose the flacon shape of the upside-down heart.
This was designed as a cult flacon as early as 1912 for the company; as a symbol of eternal femininity: a subtle fusion of straight lines and curves, with a heart-shaped closure.
But above all, he wanted this shape to be a bowl, a sheltering vessel for all the feelings that touch the heart.
None of it should be lost, which would be quite possible with a usual pointed heart.
I am thinking, for example, of the "Weeping Heart," whose pink blossom weeps white tears.
For Jean-Paul Guerlain, a lover of all things beautiful, hope, love, passion and, of course, sadness and tears should be safely tucked away as part of life.
Just like his Eau de Parfum "Chamade" in its special flacon; described by himself as a "perfume with the pulsating rhythm of a beating heart".
There is a statement authorized by the House of Guerlain about this fragrance that I do not wish to omit.
The term "chamade" comes from the Napoleonic era.
The drum, as a means of communication between general and troops, passed on important information in the various whirls: for example, the "chamade" announced the surrender of a town.
This type of communication was necessary; as was "trooping the colour" or the "taps". Both are still common today.
The troops, thrown together from different regions, could usually neither read nor write; so the regimental flag showed them where they lived (house numbers did not exist in those days) or the "taps" called for night rest.
This is shown by his somewhat lax German text: "Soldaten müssen zu Bette geh'n und nicht so lange beim Mädchen steh'n!" - The captain said so!"
Today the term "chamade" simply stands as a symbol for the "throbbing of the heart".
And this floral oriental fragrance heart throbs in a particularly beautiful way:
"It is an ode to love, bursting from the branches like spring blossoms."
This Jean-Paul Guerlain was not only a gifted perfumer; he was also a poet!
For this quote goes back to him.
Radiant aldehydes not only welcome in the company of bergamot; they remain faithful to this work of art until the end.
Hyacinth, which always has a very strong scent, makes an appearance right after with the classic floral beauties of rose and intensely fragrant white jasmine.
They spread gleefully on the skin, before large lilac umbels and the lovely, somewhat cheeky lily of the valley add their spicy-floral aroma, which is given additional fragrant shape by cloves.
After this olfactory explosion, the now developing base is wonderfully balsamic; mainly contributed by tolu balsam and the creamy creamy vanilla.
But the still radiant aldehydes entice benzoin and ambergris; they want to emphasize their glow and radiance even more - they also succeed: a final fragrance fireworks are ignited!
An impressive symphony of fragrances with the original Guerlain sound is created!
For here, too, is the fragrant triumvirate of the "Guerlinade" of jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.
Thus, "Chamade" by the many different nuances of fragrance and color becomes the fragrance of every woman who pursues her inclinations with a clear conscience and can not be influenced by the outside.
(Under the aspect of the year of publication 1969, this is already a very emancipated fragrance approach!)
But enough drumming:
"Chamade" is a feminine as well as lively companion for several hours with the well-known charming Guerlain scent progression, which leaves nothing to be desired.
From this family of five generations of fragrance wizards, Jean-Paul Guerlain is still the most fascinating personality for me.
He did not simply further develop what his ancestors created; he had a signature all his own that is still clearly evident in his creations today.
"Chamade" is also one of these works of art created with great love for women and flowers. I thank Marieposa, who offered me a bottling of this fragrance.
My love: how could I have refused this?
This was designed as a cult flacon as early as 1912 for the company; as a symbol of eternal femininity: a subtle fusion of straight lines and curves, with a heart-shaped closure.
But above all, he wanted this shape to be a bowl, a sheltering vessel for all the feelings that touch the heart.
None of it should be lost, which would be quite possible with a usual pointed heart.
I am thinking, for example, of the "Weeping Heart," whose pink blossom weeps white tears.
For Jean-Paul Guerlain, a lover of all things beautiful, hope, love, passion and, of course, sadness and tears should be safely tucked away as part of life.
Just like his Eau de Parfum "Chamade" in its special flacon; described by himself as a "perfume with the pulsating rhythm of a beating heart".
There is a statement authorized by the House of Guerlain about this fragrance that I do not wish to omit.
The term "chamade" comes from the Napoleonic era.
The drum, as a means of communication between general and troops, passed on important information in the various whirls: for example, the "chamade" announced the surrender of a town.
This type of communication was necessary; as was "trooping the colour" or the "taps". Both are still common today.
The troops, thrown together from different regions, could usually neither read nor write; so the regimental flag showed them where they lived (house numbers did not exist in those days) or the "taps" called for night rest.
This is shown by his somewhat lax German text: "Soldaten müssen zu Bette geh'n und nicht so lange beim Mädchen steh'n!" - The captain said so!"
Today the term "chamade" simply stands as a symbol for the "throbbing of the heart".
And this floral oriental fragrance heart throbs in a particularly beautiful way:
"It is an ode to love, bursting from the branches like spring blossoms."
This Jean-Paul Guerlain was not only a gifted perfumer; he was also a poet!
For this quote goes back to him.
Radiant aldehydes not only welcome in the company of bergamot; they remain faithful to this work of art until the end.
Hyacinth, which always has a very strong scent, makes an appearance right after with the classic floral beauties of rose and intensely fragrant white jasmine.
They spread gleefully on the skin, before large lilac umbels and the lovely, somewhat cheeky lily of the valley add their spicy-floral aroma, which is given additional fragrant shape by cloves.
After this olfactory explosion, the now developing base is wonderfully balsamic; mainly contributed by tolu balsam and the creamy creamy vanilla.
But the still radiant aldehydes entice benzoin and ambergris; they want to emphasize their glow and radiance even more - they also succeed: a final fragrance fireworks are ignited!
An impressive symphony of fragrances with the original Guerlain sound is created!
For here, too, is the fragrant triumvirate of the "Guerlinade" of jasmine, vanilla and sandalwood.
Thus, "Chamade" by the many different nuances of fragrance and color becomes the fragrance of every woman who pursues her inclinations with a clear conscience and can not be influenced by the outside.
(Under the aspect of the year of publication 1969, this is already a very emancipated fragrance approach!)
But enough drumming:
"Chamade" is a feminine as well as lively companion for several hours with the well-known charming Guerlain scent progression, which leaves nothing to be desired.
From this family of five generations of fragrance wizards, Jean-Paul Guerlain is still the most fascinating personality for me.
He did not simply further develop what his ancestors created; he had a signature all his own that is still clearly evident in his creations today.
"Chamade" is also one of these works of art created with great love for women and flowers. I thank Marieposa, who offered me a bottling of this fragrance.
My love: how could I have refused this?
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