Coque d'Or (1937) Extrait

Coque d'Or (Extrait) by Guerlain
Bottle Design: Baccarat, Michel Franck
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9.2 / 10     9 RatingsRatingsRatings
Coque d'Or (Extrait) is a perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1937. The scent is floral-powdery. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesAniseed, Fruity notes, Lavender, Bergamot, Aldehydes
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmine, Carnation, Cyclamen, Iris, Vetiver, Patchouli, Tolu balm, Musk
Base Notes Base NotesMoss, Civet, Vanilla

Ratings

Scent

9.2 (9 Ratings)

Longevity

8.0 (6 Ratings)

Sillage

7.3 (5 Ratings)

Bottle

8.1 (18 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 30.07.2019

Interesting Facts

Since February 2014, the historic gilded Baccarat flacon of Coque d'Or, shaped like a bow-tie in cobalt blue crystal, is exhibited in the "Hall of Mirrors" of the Maison Guerlain. On request, it is possible to smell the scent (extrait), which has been reconstructed following the formula of 1937.

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Reviews

10.0 7.5 7.5 9.0/10
DemonHead

18 Reviews
DemonHead
DemonHead
2
Derby's Great Aunt
Guerlain's Coque d'Or (Golden Shell) perfume was created in 1937 by Jacques Guerlain, and is easily recognisable for its beautiful gilded Baccarat blue bow-shaped flacon. It was created in the art deco age where lavishness and opulence was the norm, and its beautiful golden perfume presentation demonstrates this. Coque d'Or was additionally released in the quadrilobe flacon, as well as goutte and papillion bottles, and is a scent that typifies the glamour and mystique of this era.

Coque d'Or represents for me, some of Jacques Guerlain's most underappreciated work... it is a sensuous leathery fragrance that I feel might have been a pre-cursor to another much-loved men's Guerlain fragrance; but more on that later.

My vintage Coque d'Or eau de toilette reveals a citrus opening over an aromatic floral heart. I detect rose and something like soft iris or violets and a piquancy furnished by slightly peppery carnations and notes of nutmeg or mace. However, there is a beguiling buttery leather accord that features, and it is one that I've smelled before... it reminds me of paper-thin hand-made antique gloves of the most exceptional quality. As the perfume evolves further, curls of creamy sandalwood appear and an ambery facet (labdanum and vanilla?) brings with it a glowing sense of warmth. The whole composition rests on a glorious oakmoss base that rivals the best of other Guerlain greats. Coque d'Or is a sultry skinscent that gets better and better the longer it rests on the skin.

I would not be surprised if Jacques Guerlain's grandson Jean-Paul Guerlain perhaps drew upon the aromatic leather/oakmoss marriage of Coque d'Or as inspiration behind the mens aromatic leather fougère Derby. Whilst the two have topnotes that diverge in style and composition (florals in the former vs peppermint in the latter), their heart and basenotes run somewhat parallel. Derby is heralded as Guerlain's most revered male leather scent, and has qualities I find comparable to his Great Aunt.

I think many would welcome the return of Coque d'Or in the permanent perfume portfolio at 68 Champs Elysées. For my money, I find it a must-try for each and every Guerlainophile.

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