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Successful balancing act
The Guerlain fragrances available in the now tall, rather conservative-looking flacons are sometimes those that have been around for over twenty years and are therefore more "aged" than I am. The rather conservative - or let's say classic - flacon design suggests a fragrance DNA that inevitably does justice to the exterior and thus tends to end up in the shopping basket of the Ü40s and Ü50s. Instead, the young Otto-Normalo, if he has Guerlain on his radar at all, is likely to focus on the more modern product lines when he makes a purchase. I'm thinking, for example, of the very Ideal series, which seems to diminish with every new release, in my opinion.
Opening the blinkers and indulging in the more classic scents can be rewarded. Classic does not mean the same old-fashioned. I already noticed this in the extremely successful "Guerlain Homme (Eau de Parfum)", in which heavy vetiver was skilfully combined with rum, peppermint and floral notes and evoked a mojito association. And Mojito is probably anything but "out of fashion", isn't it? A similarly successful combination, albeit in a different way, can also be found in "Héritage (Eau de Parfum)".
I experience the prelude to this eau de parfum as actually conservative to old-fashioned. A quite loud lemon makes itself noticeable, which is complemented by my fear note, the lavender. Lavender is such an herb that I have my problems with if it takes too dominant a role, as it always reminds me of my grandfather's after shave, which was always overdosed. I seem to be a little traumatized in this regard.
The first fifteen minutes have to be overcome. Then the lemon has used up its sour juice and leaves the field to the lavender, which surprisingly doesn't seem to bother me at all. That this is so is certainly due to the fact that this time the herb is not biting and extremely green-spicy, which I don't like at all, but rather dark and soft. To be honest, I've never heard such lavender. So it could be something with us after all.
After about 45 minutes coriander and pepper are added. The coriander is quite uncomfortable in my nose, but only when I press my nose directly against my wrist - something you should not do at all. In the air it spreads a subtle soapy note, which is spiced up with a pinch of pepper. As far as the pepper is concerned, an appropriate dosage has been chosen here. Nothing stings in the nose, nothing causes sneezing fits - very good!
After one hour has passed, the patchouli is added to round off the fragrance composition in a masterly manner - I want to anticipate that much. His presence provides a soft background that is a little bit reminiscent of chocolate, which is also accompanied by a minimal powdery texture. This patchouli is not herbaceous, does not resemble the plant you can smoke, nor does it resemble mould or any other unpleasantness. Together with the dark herbaceous, very soft lavender and the discreetly soapy coriander, it makes an appearance that reflects the perfect balancing act between the classically conservative and the new modern. We get a long-lasting, strongly radiating, but by no means too offensive and penetrating scent for the colder days, which does not need an exuberant sweetness to attract the attention of the "young generation". So I appeal to those who are still looking for something new for autumn or winter and are fed up with the sweetness of the latest new releases to take a look at the classic flacons from Guerlain. Do not be irritated by the initial signs of old-fashionedness and give those waters time to unfold. It is very likely that your patience, if you can muster it, will be rewarded. I can promise that "Héritage" will definitely not be the last fragrance from this product line that I tested.