Looking for an extraordinary violet fragrance for spring I recently tested Insolence - the EdT and the EdP.
I liked the EdT already once very well, but of course I was now still curious about the EdP.
The EdT appeared in 2006, created by perfumers Maurice Roucel and Sylvaine Delacourte. The EdP came onto the market two years later. This time "only" Maurice Roucel was at work, whom I have in good memory as the creator of the successful apple scent "Be Delicious". I was curious to see what had happened in these 2 years with regard to insolence. Somehow I had the feeling that the fragrance would now appear more "mature", more mature, rounder, softer, creamier, more elegant, more refined. So something like that.
If the EdT was still wild, impetuous and loud, I expected something quieter, a fragrance, so to speak, that already knows what and where it wants to go. Well - and where does the direction go?
In the beginning both perfumes are relatively similar. I find the EdT on my right hand a bit sharper and thanks to the citrus notes more lively and fresh. With EdP on my left, I sniff less freshness, but it develops more personality from the very beginning. In other words: the fragrance is much more powdery and clearly warmer immediately after spraying on. I'd say you can just feel more guerlinade here
Maurice Roucel has changed the composition, it seems to me. The violet is also strongly present at EdP, even a little earlier, but it doesn't seem so provocative. Maybe it's because it doesn't have to fight a strong rose here. Therefore, it can show its true essence from the beginning without restriction, and that is gentle, graceful, soft, creamy, full of charm and beguiling. But that's not all. For the violets, Roucel has put aside the noble sweetness of ripe raspberries.
A garden party in the style of Alice in Wonderland - intense colours, as they are to be found otherwise only in dreams, shrillly dressed party guests in warm sunlight. Ladies in fragrant blossom white dresses with incredible hat creations, very elegant and feminine. Fresh green, exuberant mood - perhaps due to the violet punch, which is strongly attributed here everywhere. On the table a huge vanilla pudding with many freshly picked raspberries, which exude a fine, sweet scent.
(I know this perfume doesn't contain vanilla, but that's my association.)
The atmosphere has something unreal, magical, lively, but also this exciting feeling that everything can happen here at any time. But whatever happens, I feel that of all the adventures I could experience now, I can always return to this cheerful place with the violet punch if I want to.
The EdT seems to me comparatively rather mainstream with its proven citrus chords and the equally proven red common berries. It may be more suitable for the beginning of spring. For it is more sparkling, cheekier, cooler, greener, more citric and fresher. The flowery-fruity EdP, on the other hand, can also survive well in summer. I have the impression, it gets along with fewer scent chords, which are however more complex defined. Maybe that's why I find it so inspiring, because it's not as loud and restless as the EdT. Somehow EdP has more substance for me, more depth. And a longer shelf life of course anyway.
Violets and raspberries dominate from the beginning. I don't notice any citric notes at all. Iris and orange blossom give the fragrance its typical powdery note, which immediately recognizes it everywhere, but are more in the background.
And the woods in the base note also only seem to underline the noble flowery-fruity sweetness that makes this perfume so attractive.
The fragrance has been described as something for a thoroughbred woman or for women who know what they want. That's not how I feel about Insolence, though. There are more than enough fragrances for self-confident women who know what they want. Most are more classic, strict, synthetic, abstract and dominant than the more cuddly, charming insolence.
And the thoroughbred? A beautiful sensuality is already present, and the fragrance is very feminine, but also has something elitist, eccentric. I therefore see the wearer more as a woman with a certain serenity, courageous enough to have retained her natural girlhood and still willing to explore fairy-tale worlds.
I can well imagine going through spring and summer with Insolence EdP next year.