In 1889 Aimé Guerlain Jicky created his first masterpiece. It was the beginning of the "emotional" fragrances era, in which attempts were no longer just made to copy the innocent scent of flowers. Instead, the goal was to arouse emotions. The name itself couldn't be more related to Guerlain. Jicky was the nickname of Aimé Guerlain's nephew Jacques Guerlain, who was to become the future master of perfume "de la Maison". According to some sources, it was also the nickname of Aimé's British friend.
Jicky was born in the middle of the Belle Époque, a golden era of beauty, innovation, progress, and peace in Europe. Historically, this period began with the end of the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 and lasted until the beginning of World War I in 1914. While new inventions made life easier on all social levels, culture was on the rise. The Belle Époque was marked by the inability of the upper bourgeoisie to grapple with the harsh realities of modern life. As a result, it withdrew to a frivolous fairytale existence that they themselves created. The upper class lived outside of time and place, caring only about looks and other frivolities. Money was easy to spend. The world was moving very quickly and Paris was at the center of this turbulence. The construction of the strange Eiffel Tower was underway. The Moulin Rouge spread its red light on the street and showed the provocative half-naked can-can dancers on stage. Van Gogh painted "Starry Night" and Gustav Mahler had premiered his first symphony. Amid burning texts, turbulent conversations, and brightly colored brushstrokes, Zola, Gaugin, Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec, and a young Picasso wandered through lively Paris, visiting Montmartre and Montparnasse cafés and Pigalle's nightlife. Artists and intellectuals rebelled against anything that was considered socially obligatory. Many enlightened women refused to obey the old strict rules, wore brightly colored clothes, intense scents, and spoke loudly in public. The suffragettes fought for social and economic equality between the sexes. With the advent of technology, every industry strived for innovation and creativity.
Aimè Guerlain was creative enough for this era. He dared innovate by using more than one synthetic ingredient, namely linalool, coumarin, and ethyl vanillin. The result was a blend that evoked different types of natural essences rather than just one floral or fruity one. Jicky is considered one of the first modern perfumes and has also introduced the novelty of being a unisex perfume. It was released to women but later adopted by men. Allegedly it was also the first fragrance to be called a "Perfume". The French word "Parfum" comes from the Italian "Profumo", and the latter developed from the Latin "Per Fumum". It means "through smoke" in the sense of "expanding steam".
Jicky is a warm perfume, but it opens with a fresh blend of citrus fruits flavored with the mint and herbal notes of rosemary. Its distinctly fougère nature appears in the body with a strong rustic lavender. It is sweetened by almond coumarin and jasmine, in addition to orris earthier nuances. At this stage, the development is somewhat masculine with an almost rural roughness while lingers with a bewitching feminine, graceful sweetness. We face two patterns, a male fougère and a female oriental floral, helping each other to maintain this duality. At the base, we find a resilient amber balm typical of ambergris, flavored with spices, sweetened with vanilla and benzoin, and a bit leathery and animalistic through the notes of leather and the indispensable civet.
The performance of the modern jicky exceeds my expectations. The longevity is average in the skin, but it is superlative in clothing. The silage and projection are softer, although they vary positively depending on the heat.
When do I use Jicky? On a cold spring morning or in a darker and more humid autumn afternoon.
The modern Jicky Eau de Parfum
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- Opening: 8.0 (nice and fresh with citrus fruits and rosemary, anticipating an earthy lavender)
- DryDown: 9.0 (velvety amber dry down, spicy, and with a leathery and animalistic touch)
- Longevity: 8.0 (3 good sprays can last from 6 to 8 hours; better with warm temperatures and on clothes)
- Sillage: 7.0 (up to 4 or 5 feet at its peak, with 3 sprays; projects for 2 hours)
- Exclusivity: 8.5 (a pioneer with a more masculine brother in Mouchoir de Monsieur
; You will find some similarities with other fougères; In my case, it recalls me of Pour Un Homme de Caron Eau de Toilette
- Portability: 9.0 (A 4-season fragrance for outdoors or indoors, day or night; avoid very hot and very cold weather)
- Versatility: 8.5 (A easy to wear around perfume, more feminine but almost unisex fragrance; it's better for classy and formal events; forget sports and seaside)
- Praise: 8.0 (You will smell very good to everybody, but not in a seductive way)
- Quality: 9.5 (above-average quality ingredients, nice plunger, nice sprayer)
- Presentation: 9.0 (very nice presentation)
- Price: 6.5 (EdP 75 ml for € 70.00)
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Overall rating: 8.27 / 10.00
- between 7 and 8 = above average;
- between 8 and 9 = recommended;
- greater than 9 = do not miss;
Recommendation: If you are a woman this is a must-have.
It can be better adapted to women over 30 years of age for its earthy and animalistic nuances. For the same reason, it can also encourage more formal attire. In reality, it depends only on the taste of each one.
If you're a man, at least you should try Jicky. For me, it is a mandatory fragrance
Good enough for a blind buy? No, try it first!
Music: Edith Piaf - "Milord"