Jicky 1889 Eau de Toilette

Jicky (Eau de Toilette) by Guerlain
Bottle Design Gabriel Guerlain
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8.1 / 10131 Ratings
Jicky (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1889. The scent is spicy-floral. It was last marketed by LVMH. Pronunciation
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Perfumer

Aimé Guerlain

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamotBergamot
Mandarin orangeMandarin orange
RosemaryRosemary
LemonLemon
Heart Notes Heart NotesBasilBasil
Orris rootOrris root
JasmineJasmine
LavenderLavender
PatchouliPatchouli
RoseRose
VetiverVetiver
Base Notes Base NotesAmbergrisAmbergris
BenzoinBenzoin
SpicesSpices
LeatherLeather
RosewoodRosewood
SandalwoodSandalwood
Tonka beanTonka bean
VanillaVanilla
FrankincenseFrankincense
CivetCivet

Ratings

Scent

8.1131 Ratings

Longevity

7.2113 Ratings

Sillage

6.7114 Ratings

Bottle

8.4104 Ratings

Value for money

7.714 Ratings
Submitted by Ronin, last update on 13.10.2021.

Variant of the fragrance concentration

This is a variant of the perfume Jicky (Extrait) by Guerlain, which differs in concentration.
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Reviews

8
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
10
Bottle
Kurai

102 Reviews
Kurai
Kurai
   3  
Wearable museum piece
I mean, this is a classic through and through and it still manages to score well in terms of versatility. I find that it interacts extremely well with skin and it has a clear but non-intrusive presence. Therefore it is wearable on pretty much any occasion.

The opening is quite an experience. Sweet-sour lemon candy powder is how I'd describe it. Utterly old-fashioned compared to modern fresh-citrus openings. But I'm a fan of dramatic entrances, so this is perfectly fine with me. Then the scent continues with a number of classical elements that manage to set a lively mood; slighty tangy maybe and totally dandy - again, big fan!

Even when the candy-like aspect settles down and a lavender-coumarin accord kicks in, the sweet powdery feel persists. The whole is carried by a mild Orien.. err.. ambery vanillin base and spiced up with a lovely civet note.

Although I can imagine that this does not appeal to the younger audience, this 'museum piece' is still more than relevant. Above all, a lesson in proper use of civet.
1 Replies
8
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
April22Bee
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April22Bee
April22Bee
Top Review    33  
Surprisingly different and challenging
"Jicky"...Who are you, I thought to myself when I was able to join a Guerlain masterclass last year.

The fragrance from the year 1889, which is produced since then continuously, splits the minds and is in my opinion already rather what for the very hard-boiled Guerlain fans. So "Jicky" was traded as the first "modern perfume" in the world, which combines complex aromas and beguiled women and men alike.
In the master class training of guerlain I have learned, among other things, that at that time for the first time in the world of perfumes a synthetic molecule - namely the so-called "vanillin" was used.

The smell was accepted by gentlemen immediately, women showed up at first rather astonished, before also these could inspire themselves for the smell.that lasted however a while.

I think I belong to the circle of ladies from the year 1889,because also to me Jicky appears as a difficult candidate...he pleases but nevertheless well,because he is just so refreshingly different.

JICKY, so promising the name, so is also a story underlying the fragrance and that is that aimé guerlain, so it is said at least, was inspired by a hopeless love from the study time. The fragrance owes its name to the very lady who remained in Aimé's memory. Coincidentally, jicky was also the name of his nephew Jaques, affectionately so named.

Jicky is a contrasting fragrance,which I find rather unpleasant in the first half hour.From the citrus top notes bergamot, mandarin, lemon and rosemary I actually smell nothing,at least not at the beginning....denn the fragrance builds up with me in reverse order.he starts with the base and ends with me the top note....very strange for me and at the same time fascinating.The heart note is very spicy,unfolds through the strong base but not very at me.Opulent are leather,balsamic notes,incense and civet.

After three quarters of an hour, the citrusy, warm, vanilla accord fights its way to the front and the fragrance becomes rounder and more harmonious.

The fragrance is truly rich in contrast.by the different components unfolds the fragrance on each differently, at least I could determine that, because I have sprayed him on different people.
It is fascinating how seemingly so different and contradictory notes can unite into one fragrance. The mysterious love of aimé guerlain, must have been a versatile woman,because the fragrance is truly diverse: sensual,animalic,lovely,fresh and a little mysterious and magical.

sillage and projection are good.the durability I would describe as überdurchschnittlch.
So chapeau for over 100 years of perfume history. A test is therefore worthwhile in any case.

Thanks for reading
25 Replies
8
Scent
7
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
Serenissima
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Top Review    14  
first the scent of dandies
Browsing through family stories has such its own unique appeal.
Especially, of course, if this family is called Guerlain and so with five generations the world of fragrances with remarkable creations beglückte.
Such information around the great and also smaller classics of the fragrances bring them closer to me. Because I love fragrances with history and stories.
So of course "Jicky".

When the sons Guerlain followed their father Pierre-François-Pascal in 1864, the distribution of roles in the company was clear: the younger brother Gabriel takes over its management; Aimé can devote himself entirely to the creations of fragrances. Which he does successfully.
After he had made a name for himself with "Fleur d'Italie" and "Excellence", he wanted to go other, previously unknown ways and also promptly produced a scandal!
There's nothing like a proper scandal!
It was certainly no different back then!
One tore the mouths; but what did it matter: usually a proper scandal attracted the success!
So, of course, it happened with "Jicky".

The time was ripe to try something new and Aimé simply dared to do it:

He used the first synthetic fragrances to make "Jicky"; such as coumarin or vanillin, an aldehyde taken from vanilla. (Still found today in sugar of the same name.)
It rustled already quite properly in the smell leaf forest: What does he make then? He dares what!
Because a women's perfume should smell like flowers; a well-composed bouquet of sweet-smelling roses, violets and jasmine expected one.
But "Jicky" was suddenly so different, half oriental and spicy-aromatic.
The fragrance notes tumbled more or less in confusion; "Jicky" was an entirely new, indefinable scent that resembled nothing familiar.
When "Jicky" came on the market, something unexpected appeared: this fragrance was suddenly bought predominantly by men. "Jicky" became the fragrance of the dandies!
They had discovered their passion for this elusive scent, and it was only after a magazine "for the lady" was dedicated to it in 1912 that "Jicky" was able to conquer the ladies' world.

With this history in mind, I tested "Jicky," the eau de toilette, for the second time; the first trials had left me a bit confused.
Well, no wonder, as I now know!

Right at the beginning, "Jicky" reminds of a fragrance duet of bergamot and lavender, accompanied by fresh singing by mandarin and lemon, to which rosemary hums spicy before itself.
A very southern French entry into this fragrance experience; the Provence with its so different scented landscapes sends its regards!
This impression is still deepened by the peppery spiciness of basil, before the heavy swathes of fragrance of white jasmine and the noble, no less fragrant rose enter the stage.
Not only followed by the iris, which also provides some powdery softness here, but surprisingly also by patchouli and vertiver: what are these two doing here?
I would not have suspected them in a heart note and now I realize why I was so strange when I first got to know: Aimé Guerlain has really shaken the otherwise so smooth structure of the classic fragrance pyramid and thus created a not floral-feminine, but also spicy-earthy mixture, which is not quite so soft and round.
For this, he remains in the base but largely true to the usual: the most beautiful aromatics emerge here in cozy togetherness.
If only because of the noble rosewood (how I loved the silky shimmer of my little sewing table made of rosewood, the light scent when the sun shone on it and warmed the wood).
It's accompanied by a surprising accord of spices and leather, before the smoky clouds of incense and amber make themselves known; a bit scratchy and resinous, and so attuned to sandalwood, which, after all, isn't always entirely cuddly either.
This creation retains its special, not only feminine charm, reconciles a bit with the unexpected so far; the flow of fragrance begins to flow more quietly, the eddies, which provided some surprises, become less.
But that only seems so: after all, civet suddenly shocks with an animalicism that no one would have expected. Vanilla and tonka bean ensure by their very generous warmth also still that this nuance can blossom sensually.
"Jicky" has its finale - with timpani and trumpets and a surprising Tusch!

For that reason alone, "Jicky" must have shocked when it first appeared in 1889!
Where were the opulent floral bouquets, the fine woods and all the feminine playfulness that was expected of a women's fragrance?
First the for spoiled ladies noses tart-spicy entrance, which reminded of pristine Mediterranean nature, and then also so clearly occurring sensuality.
A "decent woman", and for this the customers of the house of Guerlains held themselves at the end of the 19th century, did not wear something like that!
So it is no wonder that the dandies pounced on this new fragrance being: finally they had discovered something, whereby they could emphasize their personality.
A glance at the known years shows that this remained so for a good twenty years.

In the meantime, "Jicky", which I tested here as an eau de toilette, has conquered its place: it is worn by women and men and the explosiveness of its shocking appearance is long gone. No one asks for it anymore.

I miss a little the harmonious round scent that always delights me in the Guerlain fragrances and to which I can surrender, like a warm loving embrace.
"Jicky" interrupts this even harmony again and again by unexpected shallows in the scent stream, some corners and edges.

This certainly makes the special charm of this fragrance; but keeps me a little at a distance.
I fremdele even after several more tests and know: you are beautiful, charming and passionate - but nothing for me!
So I admit "Un défait en amour" - a defeat in a fragrance love, which wanted to win so much for me.
But "Jicky" is so much-loved that I can turn my back on it with peace of mind.
I was still happy to have made this second attempt; I know now what it is: for "Jicky" I am too much female!
10 Replies
DoctorIon

6 Reviews
DoctorIon
DoctorIon
   2  
A female perfume for men?
Anyone who loves "Egoiste" (Chanel) can not help but love "Jicky". They are two perfumes with a common spirit.
The aggressive explosion of real lavender at the beginning acts as a vehicle of a warm spicy hug of cinnamon with oriental shades from all the usual suspects of the time: vanilla, sandalwood, benzoin (supports the former) while civet, with its unquestionable "dirty" trace, signs a seemingly simple scent of contrasts that you trust.
Its good character carries a madness. Its feminine intuition loves men. Its versatile temperament prefers the intelligent.
"Jicky", is not a feminine perfume that will be worn by a man who wants to impress. It will be worn by a man who wants to be loved!
1 Replies
10
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
Yatagan
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Yatagan
Yatagan
Top Review    79  
I'm flying
It is completely superfluous to add another comment to this page, because almost everything has been said and if not here, then on the Eau de Parfums or Extraits page. Jicky is one of the oldest fragrances, perhaps the first modern fragrance with synthetic ingredients, sometimes declared as a women's fragrance and sometimes as a men's fragrance, dazzling like hardly any other fragrance, perhaps fallen out of time or timeless. I don't know.

For lavender lovers, and it is only for them that I am writing this comment, however, that the fragrance is a special revelation. While lavender in the coumarin context is usually much more herbaceous and greener, in its pure form as a genuine lavender fresh floral-herbaceous and in contrast with sweet raw materials (vanilla / vanillin in Caron Pour Un Homme) has a tension arch, only in Jicky this contrast of lavender, wafer-thin Fougère accents and animal notes (Zibet) can be found. Really only Jicky (apart from the close relationship with Mouchoir de Monsieur) smells like this. In addition, there is a nostalgically dusty powderiness, while the lavender is complemented by citric notes in the overtones. It is actually idle to describe all this, because almost everyone knows the scent. However, one should not really suspect that this results in such an idiosyncratic overall sound when reading the ingredients.
Besides, you probably won't like Jicky at the first test. I even hewed: You can't like it at all. There is, for example, the strict, the tense, the backward-looking nostalgic, which must lead to irritation.
However, if you take the fragrance perspective and acknowledge that the concept goes back to the late 19th century (1889), it becomes clear that lavender, coumarin and vanillin lead back to the future. I confess that sometimes when I wear the scent I think I'm flying
41 Replies

Statements

BertolucciKBertolucciK 8 months ago
9
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle
Fougère, unisex and not old fashion at all. Bergamot, lavender, floral with a balsamic base of vanilla, tonka, spices and a nice civet.
CatarinaCatarina 2 years ago
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
9
Bottle
I just love this animalic citrus and lavender potion. The civet touch is awsome. A landmark from Guerlain!

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