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Notes12/06/2020
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Since 1889 in the program: fragrances you should know, for example "Jicky" !
"Jicky" has been on the market since 1889 and prepared the ground for modern perfumery.
From the structure a real Fougére:
Bergamot and lavender frame a heart of geranium, followed by a balsamic base of vanilla, tonka, coumarin and civet. The bergamot determines the fragrance at the beginning, it encloses the green herbs and lavender, which are also present. Zibet then plays a key role: it combines the woody parts of the fragrance with the floral heart of rose and geranium. Spices are also very subtly incorporated, a little cinnamon, which gives warmth and leads to the balsamic base, where vanilla and coumarin, both synthetic, meet.
The creator of the fragrance, Aimé Guerlain, balanced each note very carefully.
Therefore, the mix of lavender, vanilla and civet does not seem old-fashioned, on the contrary, it still seems wearable today.
"Jicky" is also a unisex perfume of the first hour, much more stylish than many perfumes designed with the aroma-chemistry sledgehammer of the last 20 years, completely independent of whether they come from the "niche" or mainstream.
The Eau de Toilette in particular allows a look back into the history of French perfumery, as it has particularly finely worked top notes.
The "New York Times" hired a perfume critic in 2006. A laudable effort, because it's harder than you might think to find your way through the perfume forest. Anyone who was not allowed to grow up in a perfume-affine environment and only starts to smell the world of fragrances as an adult needs some orientation beyond the first phase of the primary fragrance experience. In recent years, a number of very useful books have been published on the subject, many initially in English, written by American or English fragrance experts*.
But luckily the French are catching up.
I find the book "Les cent onze parfums qu'il faut sentir avant de mourir" ("The 111 perfumes you should have smelled before you die") by the authors' collective "Nez culture" very inspiring and much more vividly and knowledgeably written than many a text written by Luca Turin.
That "111-Perfume-Book" begins - how could it be different - with an article about "Jicky".
Unfortunately the book has not yet been translated into German.
As fun facts, the authors* always mention for each of the fragrances described in which films they played a role and who is said to have worn them.
With "Jicky" the row of celebrities is very long: Fanny Ardent, Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Joan Collins, Jackie Kennedy, Roger Moore etc.
The average time needed to buy a perfume is 30 minutes. I learned this from reading the book "Perfume: A guide to the world of fragrances", written by none other than Jean-Claude Ellena. 30 minutes of tasting several fragrances. 30 minutes in which the base notes have not yet unfolded. Mispurchases and disappointments are pre-programmed.
The clever perfume fan makes a pre-selection.
"Jicky" wouldn't be bad
From the structure a real Fougére:
Bergamot and lavender frame a heart of geranium, followed by a balsamic base of vanilla, tonka, coumarin and civet. The bergamot determines the fragrance at the beginning, it encloses the green herbs and lavender, which are also present. Zibet then plays a key role: it combines the woody parts of the fragrance with the floral heart of rose and geranium. Spices are also very subtly incorporated, a little cinnamon, which gives warmth and leads to the balsamic base, where vanilla and coumarin, both synthetic, meet.
The creator of the fragrance, Aimé Guerlain, balanced each note very carefully.
Therefore, the mix of lavender, vanilla and civet does not seem old-fashioned, on the contrary, it still seems wearable today.
"Jicky" is also a unisex perfume of the first hour, much more stylish than many perfumes designed with the aroma-chemistry sledgehammer of the last 20 years, completely independent of whether they come from the "niche" or mainstream.
The Eau de Toilette in particular allows a look back into the history of French perfumery, as it has particularly finely worked top notes.
The "New York Times" hired a perfume critic in 2006. A laudable effort, because it's harder than you might think to find your way through the perfume forest. Anyone who was not allowed to grow up in a perfume-affine environment and only starts to smell the world of fragrances as an adult needs some orientation beyond the first phase of the primary fragrance experience. In recent years, a number of very useful books have been published on the subject, many initially in English, written by American or English fragrance experts*.
But luckily the French are catching up.
I find the book "Les cent onze parfums qu'il faut sentir avant de mourir" ("The 111 perfumes you should have smelled before you die") by the authors' collective "Nez culture" very inspiring and much more vividly and knowledgeably written than many a text written by Luca Turin.
That "111-Perfume-Book" begins - how could it be different - with an article about "Jicky".
Unfortunately the book has not yet been translated into German.
As fun facts, the authors* always mention for each of the fragrances described in which films they played a role and who is said to have worn them.
With "Jicky" the row of celebrities is very long: Fanny Ardent, Brigitte Bardot, Jane Birkin, Joan Collins, Jackie Kennedy, Roger Moore etc.
The average time needed to buy a perfume is 30 minutes. I learned this from reading the book "Perfume: A guide to the world of fragrances", written by none other than Jean-Claude Ellena. 30 minutes of tasting several fragrances. 30 minutes in which the base notes have not yet unfolded. Mispurchases and disappointments are pre-programmed.
The clever perfume fan makes a pre-selection.
"Jicky" wouldn't be bad
39 Replies
BertolucciK
