L'Heure Bleue Eau de Parfum

L'Heure Bleue (Eau de Parfum) by Guerlain
Bottle Design: Raymond Guerlain
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L'Heure Bleue (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women. The release year is unknown. The scent is powdery-floral. The longevity is above-average. It is being marketed by LVMH.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesAniseed, Bergamot
Heart Notes Heart NotesCarnation, Neroli
Base Notes Base NotesIris, Violet, Vanilla, Benzoin, Tonka bean

Ratings

Scent

8.5 (506 Ratings)

Longevity

8.5 (353 Ratings)

Sillage

7.6 (321 Ratings)

Bottle

8.9 (335 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 18.03.2019
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Reviews

Schnuppern
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Schnuppern
Schnuppern
9
A beautiful reading...
Beside these great comments I do not presume to have any more.
For all L´Heure Bleue lovers I would like to give only a literature tip.:
The novel "Nur einzige Brief" by Judith Lennox is about an unfulfilled love at the turn of the last century and the protagonist carries and loves...of course L´Heure Bleue with whom she enchants...
Those who like novels in which one can immerse oneself and forget the here and now will also like them and perhaps enjoy them accompanied by a breath of this unusual scent. I bought L´Heure Bleue because of the reading and the heroine and did not regret it.
4 Replies
8.0 8.0 9.0 8.0/10
Rosie88
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Rosie88
Rosie88
Greatly helpful Review    14
Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette?
I have read a lot about Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue, but I have never had the chance to test it... So I let the time pass, until I stumbled over HB again by chance here in the forum...

It must be really good... only which one is better - the EDT or the EDP???? Pooh, that's really hard to say, just from your comments, dear like-minded people...
And then there's the extrait...

Torn back and forth I searched Parfumo and the World Wide Web for answers.... But of course found no... at least not those that fit me ;-)

So I searched for a good offer and pulled out the order finger, which had been twitching and howling like a hyperactive puppy for a long time...!

....The puppy is satisfied and the EDP and the EDT are on their way to me shortly afterwards... Yes I know - a blind purchase and then both variants ordered - a bit crazy what?

But in my defense, I've let the extract go... ;-P

Anyway, I love to compare and here was a great opportunity for a 1:1 comparison of the EDP and the EDT, the result of which I would like to share with you :-)

So, enough talking and continue for comparison.

I start with the EDP:
Sprayed on and immediately impressive! Wow!
I smell clove, very much clove... surrounded by a slightly bitter bergamot and a spicy-hot anise note....
My first thought is, "this is an absolutely classic fragrance." Classic like Chanel N° 5, but different...
"Maybe I'm still a bit too young for this top note", goes through my head... but wait and see...

After approx. 10 - 15 minutes this force will settle down a little and the fragrance will soften...
A beautiful powdery iris emerges... It is powdery, but by no means dusty, dry, or old-fashioned... rather fresh and young...
"I like that better then"

Then I am overcome by a delicate violet note, which - despite its strength - breathes a floral air into the fragrance and makes it a bit more delicate... i feel the smell from then on as "freshly washed and powdered, scrubbed properly and now baby-pure" - if there is such a name ;-)

Then the scent on my skin changes again, because at the end a thick tonka bean joins the base, which makes the scent bitter, creamy and in my opinion a bit "leathery"...

The fragrance therefore remains powdery, creamy, "leathery" and absolutely wearable in the base....

Overall, I am positively surprised by the EDP. The fragrance begins a bit old-fashioned, then changes direction towards youth and then gets stuck in between. A very interesting fragrance... I like that, luckily ;-)

For all of you who don't have enough, here you can find my impressions of the EDT:

The EDT begins - compared to the EDP - much easier and accompanied by a somewhat alcoholic note...
The bitter-spicy sharpness of the EDP (i.e. its top note) is completely missing here at the EDT in my opinion...

...The EDT starts right away with this wonderful "freshly washed and powdered, neatly scrubbed and now baby-pure" note, which I personally very much like...

There comes directly "slide of Amouage" into my mind... he has a certain resemblance...

The EDT is generally not as difficult as the EDP... It is rather fluffy and light...
You can already smell the carnations, but in a lighter dose... The iris is also not dusty or dry with EDT, but rather young and fresh... The violet is much more reserved with the EDT and only quite fine to recognize...

The Tonka is slimmer and more reserved with the EDT, so that the "leathery" note, which comes up at the end with the EDP, does not come up here with the EDT. With the EDT you can clearly smell a nice unsweet vanilla, which is not the case with the EDP in my opinion.

In general the EDT - like the EDP - is rather unsweet.

In my opinion the EDT does not undergo as many changes as the EDP.

Conclusion of my 1:1 comparison:

-The EDP is very interesting because it has a great fragrance and some surprises. The prelude is very powerful and could frighten some...
The fragrance is generally very classic, but - once the top note has been sustained - it can also be worn by younger people :)

-The EDT is the somewhat "younger" version, which starts without the massive top note of the EDP.
There are no more big jumps in the base compared to the EDP. It gets a bit more herb-creamy, but the course from heart note to base is much finer than with EDP.
The EDT is generally slightly younger, fresher and more tender.

If I had to make up my mind.... i think I'd take the EDT... Or the EDP - because it is more diverse?
I'm almost at the beginning again.... No, I would take the EDT :-)

But since I have both variants now, I don't have to choose ;-P

I hope that I was able to help the still undecided with the choice - EDP or EDT
6 Replies
9.0 8.0 9.0 6.0/10
Flynn92
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Flynn92
Flynn92
Helpful Review    12
The brick
I feel inspired to write a comment here because I love the Eau de Toilette and was very surprised how the Eau de Parfum doesn't work (at least on my skin). For me it is really like a brick, very many notes on top of each other and no transparency in the fragrance. L'Heure Bleue is also in the eau de toilette form a rather linear scent, but you can still see that the spices become less during the day and the flowers more and more beautiful. The whole composition is carried by soft resins and tonka bean. With the Eau de Parfum I get this "Chinaladen Vibe", the spices and base notes are very close together and steal the show from the flowers. It's no fun for me to wear. I don't want to tear up the scent with this comment. I would rather that when people are interested in L'Heure Bleue, they first try the Eau de Toilette. In my opinion it is simply better and for new noses certainly also more easily accessible.
3 Replies
9.0 8.0 9.5/10
16paws
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16paws
16paws
Greatly helpful Review    29
When the day touches the night
No more day and not yet night, that is the blue hour, the transition from light to dark. This in-between, neither nor, the twilight, that embodies L'Heure Bleue. Not day, not night, not fish, not meat, but a mythical intermediate world, which is very, very difficult to comprehend for us humans in 2018.

1912's a long time ago and long gone. A lot's happened since then. Back then everything was different, not necessarily better, but different. People didn't know our hectic pace back then, time wasn't so fast-moving and people weren't so rushed. One traveled with the good old steam train or the horse-drawn carriage, because cars owned only a few and all the others, and that must not have been a few, even longer distances ran simply on foot. No bother on every corner, because there was no mobile phone yet and not everyone could afford a gramophone either. They were still making music themselves and talking to each other. Even the movies were silent. Still.

In the first two tests I perceive the opening of Anis very vehemently and strictly. The bergamot is dull, almost musty and reminds me of mothballs in grandmother's closet. You think this is a masterpiece? The tests were aborted and ended in the shower.

But I won't give up that easily. I want to know what makes L'Heure Bleue so special. Maybe I'm just a banausin who doesn't understand why this fragrance made it into "Parfum Olymp". I really want to know right now.

Further trials will follow. The bergamot does not prove to be citrus-fresh even after repeated spraying. I don't feel the anise as strict as I did the first time I tried it. Bergamot and anise seem to form a connection, which I found to be "musty" during my first tests, but now perceive it quite differently.

Suddenly a beautiful violet appears, which doesn't look modest at all and is supported by a no less enchanting, powdery iris. The smell picks up speed, in a direction that appeals to me very much, because the carnation contributes its fine spice, which I damn well like.

It takes some time until the vanilla shows up at my place, but it is worth waiting. I don't smell sweet. I smell a dark, smoky, slightly wicked vanilla. Infinitely beautiful. No penetrating sweetness as we are used to from current fragrances. Not only sensual, also very contemplative. L'Heure Bleue kidnaps its wearer everywhere - be it in the past or in the future and inspires to dream.

The shelf life of 8 to 10 hours is perfectly ok, but like all fragrances, I can only perceive them close to my body. That's why I don't rate the silage.

L'Heure Bleue is a fragrance that takes time, I have understood that. Time that we are seldom willing to spend today, but that is absolutely necessary to understand, appreciate and grasp this fragrance. Beauty needs time, space and frame to present all facets properly and to put them in the right light.

Conclusion: L'Heure Bleue is a fragrance from another millennium. Those who wore it then are long gone and those who wear it today will long be history, but L'Heure Bleue will outlast us all ... a fragrance for eternity. Hopefully.
10 Replies
Omni
Omni
Omni
Helpful Review    5
Pleasantly surprised
I like the current EDP, it seems to have a bit of the magic I missed early on. It is said you are a Shalimar person or a LHB person, I don't own the pillar that is Shalimar but I do have lots of spin-offs (flankers) in Eau de Cologne, Cologne 2015, Parfum Initial, PI L'Eau and Eau de Shalimar. LHB's only, sort of, flanker is L'Heure Nuit, rather obscure now. Recent online conversations with Honey Bees (Guerlain fans) confirm that the current LHB in EDP form may be alarming at first spray, however, it settles into its name very nicely, the blue velvet interlude of twilight, a more perfumey version, less mothbally than in the past, more carnation, a little rosier, less doughy.
10.0 7.0 7.0 10.0/10
Oriane
Oriane
Oriane
Helpful Review    6
A Most Beautiful Fragrance That I Could Never Be Without
Top Notes: Anise, Coriander, Neroli, Bergamot, Lemon.

Heart Notes: Carnation, Orchid, Jasmine, Cloves, Neroli, Heliotrope, Ylang-Ylang, Rose, Violet, Tuberose.

Base Notes: Iris, Sandalwood, Musk, Benzoin, Vanilla, Vetiver, Tonka Bean.

I wanted to try some of the classic Guerlain fragrances a few years ago, including Mitsouko, Apres L'ondee, and L'Heure Bleue. L'Heure Bleue is the first one I tried, and I was/am very happy with it. I can see why this is considered a classic. It smells heavenly!! (I have fallen totally in love with it. : )

L'Heure Bleue is soft, fresh, clean, feminine, and yes, powdery, too. It has a fresh, fairly intense floral base. (It is considered an "Oriental" or "semi-Oriental.") Initially, it has a moderate++ sillage, and after two or three hours, it wears fairly close to the skin, at least on me. It smells like the kind of fragrance one wears to "dress up" for a special evening, so its name is very apropos. I like it enough to know that it will be a staple in my collection for all the years to come. It does not smell like any other fragrance I own.

Many young ladies these days do not like anything that smells powdery. They prefer fragrances that smell candy sweet. L'Heure is not that kind of fragrance. If you do NOT like a fairly strong powdery note to your fragrance, then this is not the scent for you. However, if you do like or do not mind a powdery, make-up-E scent, then I think you will like L'Heure Bleue.

L'Heure Bleue makes me think of ladies in long gloves, long evening gowns, with upswept hair and sparkling jewels. It is very elegant and feminine to be sure. It is alluring but not overtly "sexual," if that makes sense. If you want to at least try some of the classics, then this one is definitely one to try. You might even fall in love with it as I did. : )

Fragrance: 10/10
Projection: 9/10
Sillage: 9/10
Longevity: 7/10
10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0/10
Adelina
Adelina
Adelina
Helpful Review    8
Masterpiece
OH, L'Heure Bleue! Scattered dreams that reach the sky... How could I describe the "blue miracle"? How could I evoke its beauty? L'Heure bleue was not mine, but I was truly his. He made me kneel through its beauty, embraced my soul, kissed it and gave it back to me stigmatized with his memory. Oh, how I love this perfume!

The perfume seems rather melancholic, but it is such a sweet melacholy! I got lost in its bittersweet depht.

I feel like I do not even know how to describe such perfect blended, refined notes. Iris, heliotrope, carnation and tuberose live in symbiosis, they would die one without the other and all that would remain behind would be a trail of smoke...

Resins and vanilla join and make the fragrance's composition more rounder, also adding more mistery. Towards the end I feel pretty good sandalwood among other notes that I can individualize. The composition is too homogenic, the notes blend gently, telling different stories. Rose feels very vague ... it's more of a shadow, a memory.

I would wear L'Heure Bleue on my wedding day. It's melancholic, but it's for brides who, just for a moment, close their eyes and let it leak a tear for the sake of things left behind by the time that has elapsed.
Danieq
Danieq
Danieq
Very helpful Review    10
A comforting blanket
I'm not especially good with notes, and when you are trying to tear apart notes for classic Guerlain, I find it even more daunting. So I won't try.

First, let me say how curious I find some of the reviews below. But then, I often notice that we all react very differently to fragrance. Cold? Dusty? Mothballs? Antiseptic??!!???

To me, this is a fragrance that takes me to a warm, safe cocoon. It's softer than soft, protective. The powder is certainly there in the drydown, but it's not alone. There is sweet sophistication, like cashmere and feathers.

I own both vintage extrait and current EdP and I love both. Oh, and some vintage Lotion Vegetale. I enjoy all three and often layer them together to get the full effect of my favorite comfort scent. When I wear L'Heure Bleue, I feel more like a woman, full grown, strong, yet also a safe haven for others. It's comforting, I'm comforting. It's a classic for a reason.
3 Replies
7.5/10
Mujo
Mujo
Mujo
Greatly helpful Review    8
Melancholic beauty
I recently bought a vintage edt (batch code 2004 - I'm not sure if it can already be labeled as vintage after 10 years).

L'Heure Bleue is very different from my other perfumes. I mostly wear less complex scents (not counting my beloved Shalimar). But I have to admit that if I am in the mood for L'Heure Bleue it's very pretty. I perceive L'HB as very much belonging to a different, more romantic and melancholic, period.

First of all it's very sweet to my nose, also it's very powdery and some might even say it's soapy (my husband thinks L'HB smells like soap and mothballs - I guess it's not very appealing to his nose). To me however it's more a potpourri flower fragrance, which almost feels like incense with a remarkable (unexpected) musky drydown. L'Heure Bleue is thick, complex, strong and powdery.

Like I said I have to be carefull wearing this, as it can easily overwhelm me. But applied in small dosages and the right state of mind it simply smells perfect.
10.0 10.0 10.0/10
ScentFan
ScentFan
ScentFan
Very helpful Review    12
A Unicorn
When I first sniffed my sample of L'Heure Bleue I was so startled I closed the vial and lay it by the edge of my keyboard where I could peep at it now and then, much as one would hide behind a tree and peep if suddenly come upon a unicorn. I simply couldn't believe it. Many days later, I tried it again and, once more, couldn't believe it. None of the listed notes can account for this extravagant smell, much like the words horse, white and horn can't create a mythic animal. Bergamot is just bergamot and violet violet, after all. L'Heure Bleue, for me, is actual magic. And I'm talking the current version. I wore it when I remarried my guy. When it's time to die, I hope I'll be wearing either Bal à Versailles, Vikt, Jeke or this. Very hard to be analytical about this fragrance, but I'll try. The intense heart of carnation and neroli blasts up into the top note next to bergamot as if a sudden, opulent masquerade ball broke out in your living room. Vanilla is strong from the start, but there's simply got to be more to this fragrance than this. There must be a little musk from Sita's deer in the Ramayana, or perhaps amber from the golden tears of the daughters of the sun, crying over their brother Phaethon's grave. Sigh. (So much for analytical.) I tried to purchase a vintage version but ended up with a used bottle of what smelled like cherry syrup. Will try again at some point because I hear the original is even better than this, if that's possible. In short, I wasn't sure if I'd love or hate L'Heure Bleue on first sniff. I just kept peeping at it now and then until I realized this unicorn is real.
4 Replies
5.0 5.0 2.0/10
Katad
Katad
Katad
6
Not for me...
Count me in amongst the haters of this classic and universally loved scent. All I get here is antisceptic soapiness. This review is for the current version, not the vintage which I haven't tried and could possibly be a stunner, but, alas I'll never know. Bleeech for me, worthy of a scrubdown...
4 Replies
10.0 5.0 7.5 8.0/10
LadyRogue
LadyRogue
LadyRogue
Greatly helpful Review    13
Blue Hours Can be Beautiful
What can one say that's not yet said about a perfume whose name casts a big shadow and is on the same shelf as Mitsouko, Jicky, Vol de Nuit, Liu & Shalimar? Classics that helped define our taste in perfume. Countless of people grew up with these scents as the epitome of french perfumery...Long before Chanel made a name for herself Guerlain was selling these beauties that still are coveted by reputation alone. Complicated classics that might confuse, nay even repel the modern perfume palate.

So, what do I think of this much discussed and reviewed L’Heure Bleue? Well, after reading some reviews I came across sentences like: "it smells sad" - "It smells dusty like an old attic" et cetera. I understand these statements, or, more accurately, I understand what evokes them. L'Heure Bleue is very unusual and very polarising, I understand both ends of the spectrum that people feel/smell in it.

To a nose that has never smelled L'Heure Bleue before and might not have smelled anything like it...it might come as an olfactory shock! Moth balls? Hospital hallways that just got cleaned with an antiseptic? Dusty rooms? Oh, dear! Poor LHB, I make her sound as though I feel the same...I don't; I love her because she is unique, unforgiving, ever-changing and represents her era so impressively well.

But she also reminds me of a lot of things that I love: Antique book-shops where a lady just walked through the aisles perusing books as she permeated the air with a light floral perfume that mingled with the stories in the books...paper and florals, and I inhale deeply thinking of all the adventures, dramas and love stories locked up in these books that are waiting to be released by the reader.
I smell the ancient Roman-Greco wings of the British Museum where the mummies are wrapped in linen that was scented with precious oils and adorned long ago with wilted and dried flowers....Do they really still permeate any floral scent? Perhaps not, perhaps it is in my imagination...I mingled the images of the dried floral wreaths and oil amphoras with the slightly dusty smell of old civilisations that fascinated me my whole life.

LHB is not just something you can discern and explain by listing the notes and trying to see which ones your nose can pick up. No, to me LHB is a mood that captures you --for good or bad-- you must smell LHB and see what trip it takes your senses & imagination on. It's a time-machine in a bottle that might transport some of us to their (great)grandmothers bedroom where she always had fresh flowers on her vanity next to her luxurious body powder with big fluffy puff. Or, to a Cathedral where you walked in on a sunny day...it's warm and bright outside, a big contrast with the cool, solemn mood of the inside where the smell of beeswax candles, polished pews, hymn books and the flowers on the altar mingle into an image of all the prayers that were spoken.

LHB is kaleidoscope of nostalgia is every drop, and nostalgia conjures up many different moods. I love LHB because I have always been fascinate with history, old books & antiques. But what I love most is that LHB makes me travel back to many nostalgic places from my own past...it mirrors the nostalgia of your own life too......It does that, you see.

Even when one loves/likes LHB it's a scent you have to be in the mood for; I wear it as such...To bed when I am reading before sleep. To the office...when I know its going to be a busy day, because it's such a calming scent to me. On an autumnal walk with the dog...or to a party - It's all up to the wearer.

LHB is special and most certainly a required taste. Don't be sad if she isn't for your chemistry/olfactory. Not all people like to revel in the dust of time. Just make sure you sniff/test her at least once in your life...Because she is a scent every Perfumista should have experienced.

Silage is: I could embrace you forever and keep you safe - Longevity is: One century of memories and countless flowers.
4 Replies
10.0 7.5 10.0 8.0/10
Sherapop
Sherapop
Sherapop
Very helpful Review    11
Endothermia or The Coldest of All Possible Perfumes
I have both the eau de toilette and the eau de parfum of L'HEURE BLEUE, neither of which I wear more than about once a year, believe it or not. Sounds like I hate this perfume, right? But I do not! Is this a contradiction? Am I hoarding L'HEURE BLEUE for fear that twenty-first-century LVMH-supervised bottles may contain inferior liquids inside? No.

The truth is that I rarely feel like wearing L'HEURE BLEUE, and yet I do not find it ugly and in fact find it even rather appealing, in a cold and intellectual way. I've seen many people compare L'HEURE BLEUE to APRES L'ONDEE, which is to me a mistake. APRES L'ONDEE is so human and fragile, while L'HEURE BLEUE is cold and clinical, like a scalpel of the soul.

Yet I like it. Back when it was named, "blue" would have seemed the perfect way to describe this pensive, introspective creation. After the aquatic blue movement some decades later, "blue" no longer seems quite right because that term has been usurped by the tsunami of calone-based, seasickness-inducing, vat-produced "no plants were sacrificed in the production of this perfume" juice.

L'HEURE BLEUE to me is akin to an endothermic chemical reaction. Exothermic reactions give off heat. Endothermic reactions absorb heat, sucking energy in and creating a lower temperature than before the reactants were mixed together. L'HEURE BLEUE does not meld with the skin to become a warm cozy seductive perfume. L'HEURE BLEUE is like Spock or a sociopath--someone totally devoid of any human emotions and warmth.

This is not a romantic elixir. L'HEURE BLEUE is the perfect perfume for an eccentric recluse or an anchorite. Wear L'HEURE BLEUE and use its pointed nib to write a poem, all alone.
3 Replies
6.0/10
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
Very helpful Review    11
Disappointingly ... not for me!
From the Guerlain website:

"The sun has set, but night has not yet fallen. It’s the suspended hour… The hour when one finally finds oneself in renewed harmony with the world and the light. L’Heure Bleue is the moment when the sun disappears beneath the horizon and the sky is painted with night’s velvet. It is an atmosphere, an inexpressible rendering exceptional moments.

L’Heure Bleue was born in 1912 of the fleeting sensation that inspired the Impressionist painters whose works Jacques Guerlain collected. He pictured this bouquet of roses softened with iris, violet and vanilla, which evoke his favorite moment of the day when, as he put it, “the night has not yet found its star” and all of nature’s elements are cast in blue light."

I am testing the EDT, a decant of which was sent to me by EvaK (thank you!!) when she learned that I'd never tried this classic fragrance.

I am truly puzzled by it! If this is a bouquet of roses softened by the twilight then I should ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. To be quite honest, on my skin L'Heure Bleue has absolutely no mystery whatsoever ... she simply sits there, dower-like, smelling strongly of talcum powder and faintly of mothballs ... and very much like a vase of dried roses made to smell by adding potpourri oils. It's very sad!
To add insult to injury I just nipped over to my long suffering guinea pig's house (my adorable mother teehee) and hit her with a few hefty sprays to make sure I wasn't going out of my mind. "Ooooh," she coo-ed ... "that's gorgeous!". Now to put things into perspective, my Mom is a glamorous 68 year old who could pass for 52. On her, L'Heure Bleue erupts into the most beautiful cascade of scintillating hesperidic top notes before softening to a glorious symphony of soft florals in a lipstick like base of Iris and powdery woods. It's just fabulous!!
Back on my skin ... there she sits ... Whistler's Mother, cackling maniacally and smacking her toothless gums (no disrespect to Whistler intended) ... how unfair!! Truly ... all I get from L'Heure Bleue is overdone, plasticky violet and the aforementioned heaps of talcum. So sorry Eva ... I tried to love it!!

All of that said ... when I smell how beautiful this is on my Mother I can see what all the fuss is about. Her birthday is in two weeks ... I think I'll treat her to some! I could certainly enjoy someone in my life smelling that way :) ...
9 Replies
7.5 7.5 9.0/10
Cryptic
Cryptic
Cryptic
Greatly helpful Review    18
Dying Swan
L'Heure Bleue in its current formulation never interested me much. It always struck me as the wallflower sister of the classic Guerlain family of Mitsouko, Shalimar, Jicky and Apres L'Ondee. Although LB seemed pleasant enough, it couldn't hold a candle to its more interesting relatives in my mind.

Recently, I was gifted with a generous sample of vintage LB from one of the old "donut" bottles. The color alone was enough to get my attention. It had that deep garnet hue that confers a certain gravitas to perfume and is never associated with anything light, simple, aquatic or gourmand. Testing vintage LB brought home to me how much perfumery has been crippled by the loss of eugenol/iso-eugenol and heliotropin. The current miniscule allowance of these ingredients permitted by the IFRA accounts for the vast difference between the nice LB of 2012 and the glory of Jacques Guerlain's original creation. Belatedly, I can understand why LB inspired so many other perfumers to strive for that same powdery perfection with Insolence and Kenzo Flower, or the "blueness' imparted by clove/carnation in Bluebell, Blue Grass and Wild Bluebell.

LB really was trend-setting, ground-breaking stuff in its day, but along with the loss of its true, natural carnation note, the current juice is also handicapped by lack of heliotropin. Whereas my precious vintage vial contains a luscious, almondy heliotropin that whispers, "I'm what's for dessert," today's version of the flower simply says plastic doll head. I never got the melancholy, the "blue hour" poignancy of this perfume until now. I can see the progression from the wistfulness of Apres L'Ondee to the voluptuous but pensive moodiness of LB like lavender deepening into navy on Jacques Guerlain's palette. If you can find it, do try the vintage in order to fully appreciate this beautiful wonder. Thanks again to the lovely person who made this revelation possible with their generosity. :)
5 Replies
LiliumLibido
LiliumLibido
LiliumLibido
Helpful Review    8
Time travel
L'Heure Bleue is a spicy/powdery floral oriental from the Old World that has somehow managed to slink its way into a time machine where it is riding the centuries while still enthralling people everywhere she goes.
Not a small feat!

Throughout the full development, from top to bottom, every note works to foster the powdery nostalgia that L'Heure Bleue is so famous for. Slightly medicinal in the opening, the scent warms but never smolders: it stays breathy and balmy throughout.
The heart is a complex maze of various floral essences that bring out a comforting element (Heliotrope), femininity (Orchid, Rose), a tandem of exoticism and sensuality (Jasmine, Ylang), all connected to the piquant duo of carnation and clove.

Unlike the note list, however, I detect the iris in the heart, not in the base. The base has orris root concrete, which gives the perfume a violet-like note.
(the scent of violet cannot be obtained from the flower, at least it couldn't when L'Heure Bleue was created, but maybe modern technology has fixed that. I am reviewing the vintage)
The combination of vanilla and vanillin that Guerlain has always favored contributes to that flighty yet substancial feel, thanks to the aniseed in the top and the the continuation of the spicy notes throughout.

I also detect a dry amber in the base, which works beautifully with the benzoin and the sandalwood.
The musk and the vetiver give the fragrance an additional lingering feel while preventing it from getting too sweet.

Some people experience L'Heure Bleue as liquid playdoh, and dislike it because of it. Personally I do not, I consider myself lucky.
I won't even try to describe it as "old world charm" because I find it timeless: as appropriate in the early 20th century salons as it is in any 21st century metropolis. It is not a time specific perfume, it is a woman specific perfume, becoming deeply personal and intrinsically private... IF L'Heure Bleue agrees with you.
jtd
jtd
jtd
Greatly helpful Review    9
Classic Guerlain that best suits me.
Describing Vol de Nuit once, I said I can't analyze or dissect the classic Guerlains. This holds true for l'Heure Bleue. I get an anise-like vanilla and orange blossom, but it seems like one of those immensely complex orientals of its era. Beyond my analytical skills. Still, it is my favorite of the classic Guerlains. It's been described as melancholic, moody, shadowy. Maybe this is a distinction without a difference, but for me it's less about affect or emotion than it is about a contemplative state. I tend toward reflection when I wear l'HB.

I find the simple prettiness of l'HB always affecting. This prettiness, sort of beauty on a low flame, burns its way into you. Capital-B Beauty with its drama might infatuate for a moment, a day. But l'HB's attractiveness entices over time. L'HB has no gloss, but looking at its matte finish over time, you come to realize it's your favorite color.
10.0 7.5 7.5 10.0/10
EvaK
EvaK
EvaK
Very helpful Review    11
Fabulosity in a bottle
L'Heure Bleue is a perfume that brings a caleidoscope of images to my mind.. memories that aren't memories, but should have been. A journey in time.
It's the faint smell that rises from a forgotten scarf in the Orient Express. It is the whiff from an aristocratic lady passing by, wearing a fur coat and a hat. That kind of lady that makes men throw their coats in the gutter for her to step so she won't ruin her shoes.
It's the silk lining in an old, expensive crocodile purse. The enormous staircase in the grand hall from an old hollywood musical, and the diva slowly walking down, her dress floating on the steps. It is the view from the balcony once you escape the laughter and the shallowness of the party. It's a golden powdercase with enamel decoration and a facetted mirror in the lid. It is pearls, gold and diamonds. Gas lights in dusk. An abandoned bench covered in autumn leaves in an empty park just after rain.
It is the very atmosphere of Hotel Paris in Prague - or any other fabulous original Art Noveau-interior.
It is warm and sophisticated, bold and distant, yet intimate and romantic. Old-fashioned? Yes. It makes me feel I live in the wrong era. Not the perfume, but me. 'Old lady'? Well, I can't imagine a teen girl wearing it, but everything is possible. Just as I couldn't wear it with jeans, but some could probably pull that off too.
L'Heure Bleue is fabulous. It is divine. The ultimate perfume. This is what defines 'classic'.
4 Replies
10.0 5.0 7.5 8.0/10
Ineverwas
Ineverwas
Ineverwas
Helpful Review    6
Like Feeling Blue
This is quite likely one of the toughest fragrances to review, at least for me. It's a gorgeous, nostalgic, dusky classic that's at once memorable and very hard to describe. I can't easily pick the notes apart as they're so well blended and the whole perfume feels smooth and seamless. But for the sake of analysis and review, I will try to isolate them :)

L'Heure Bleue starts with a burst of heliotrope, violet and anise, which is surprisingly playful and a bit dramatic. But the opening doesn't really prepare you for what is to follow - a gorgeous, classy, powdery heaven, of old-school Guerlain refinement. There is iris in there, there is vanilla and soft sandalwood and benzoin, all developing slowly as the perfume dries down, while a sublime note of orange blossom is constantly apparent to my nose.

L'Heure Bleue definitely feels like a floral oriental, with nutty undertones of almond-like heliotrope, trademark Guerlain iris powderiness and a soft, lush, creamy base of woods, resins and spices. A combination like that might sound rather bold and overpowering, but with L'Heure Bleue, it's all a melancholic whisper, of understated grace.

I have received very diverse feedback while wearing this - some people loved that it smelled like French face powder and cosmetics, others found it soapy and old-fashioned like homemade soap. My best friend was excited that it smelled to her like her favorite Indian incense sticks. There were about as many opinions as people to tell them.

To me, though, L'Heure Bleue smells like a feeling, a human emotion. It is not merely a perfume, it is a mood, a contemplative, melancholic state of spirit - like... feeling blue. :)
10.0 7.5 7.5 10.0/10
Lola82
Lola82
Lola82
Helpful Review    4
L'Heure D'or
They should renamed this L'heure d'or
(The golden hour) it's too warm to be thought of as being blue' blue is an clinical color and this is not an clinical
scent far from it.
The opening is similar to almost all of the older Guerlains it opens with a warm
Note bergamot and the powdery dry irises'
the lemon dries the the top note with sharp accords.

the middle drydown begins to be sweeter
with the vanilla-like sweetness of heliotrope and orchid to bring a little
exotica to add to the oriental craze that swept Europe and the U.S in the early 1900's' cloves with it's pungent
bitter and diluted sweetness with the presence of jasmine adds with the earthiness.

Carnation with it's spicy sweet aroma
stands it's own with the other stronger notes such as Cloves bergamot coriander
and lemon' the two elusive notes of ylang ylang and delicate rose as it's
shy guests.

Powdery iris starts the drydown i notice amber is missing from the note card and i can smell the warmness of the scent
dry sandalwood makes it dryish and woodish there is a nice musk factor here
subtle but noticeable and Vanilla ends the elegance with it's domineering and a bit masculine presence ends the beauty.

L'heure d'or brings you to europe before
the First world war where it was decadent with artists decussing shocking new techniques can can dancers entertained men in brothels without their wives knowing beautiful sinuous
lines of art nouveau with angels kissing
on the murals of the most elegant hotels
with golden stairways beautiful gold railings white lilies adorned the lobby
women with their finest elegant gown
checks in this Perfume relfect life before the grimiest of war and the art after that took it way forever.
Show all reviews (22)

Statements

Carlitos01 42 days ago
L'Heure Bleue EDP has a very nice smoky touch that makes it unisex in spite of the florals. Good performance and an extraordinary scent!+3
9.0
8.0
9.0
9.0

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