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Notes09/28/2019
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Apicius
220 Reviews
Apicius
They can if they want to!
Whenever Guerlain launches a new fragrance for the mass market, the outcry at the afficionados is big. Firstly, no bearer of this name is responsible because there is no Guerlain left in the company. And secondly, it has little to nothing in common with the great classics of the past. Especially the house perfumer Thierry Wasser is regularly scolded because he does some things differently.
Ah, where are the times!
We know the stories about the Guerlinade, the magical note that once distinguished this house and which was based on a confident handling of the vanilla note. Remember - there is still supposed to be a supplier in France who produces vanillin exclusively for Guerlain according to the old production method. Its smoky impurities should only make the scents more alive.
With its powerful, oriental note, the Eau de Toilette, on the other hand, was inspired by the scent habits of a modern, rather young audience. Take a look at the embarrassing advertising video - the cool guy, surrounded by women. Marketing has its sights on the pimply youngster, not the noble dude.
But who really buys the perfumes of this brand? It makes me wonder why L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum, being the first flanker to follow up the original, so much cites the house's great past.
Here we have it, the vanilla - clearly present and skillfully staged! The oriental woody note of the original has been dimmed down with all its loud statements of cherry, almond and marzipan. The beauty of a Guerlain vanilla always reveals itself in dialogue with its surroundings, as here too.
For the first time I notice the leather note, which should also be present in the original. It is very delicate and can only be perceived in the projection. And it is important, because the projection is what our environment perceives when we wear a scent. You should always try to place yourself next to your body when trying out a perfume. If you only press your nose to the the back of your hand you will miss a lot. For me, a piece of refinement and finesse becomes visible, as we attribute it to the classics of the French perfume art.
Compared to the original, L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum is the finer fragrance. The vanilla in front of the more discreet oriental-woody background gives me an impression of softness. For me, it's less for the office and going out, more for private, intimate occasions. If the original is for the week, then L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum is for Sunday.
Ah, where are the times!
We know the stories about the Guerlinade, the magical note that once distinguished this house and which was based on a confident handling of the vanilla note. Remember - there is still supposed to be a supplier in France who produces vanillin exclusively for Guerlain according to the old production method. Its smoky impurities should only make the scents more alive.
With its powerful, oriental note, the Eau de Toilette, on the other hand, was inspired by the scent habits of a modern, rather young audience. Take a look at the embarrassing advertising video - the cool guy, surrounded by women. Marketing has its sights on the pimply youngster, not the noble dude.
But who really buys the perfumes of this brand? It makes me wonder why L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum, being the first flanker to follow up the original, so much cites the house's great past.
Here we have it, the vanilla - clearly present and skillfully staged! The oriental woody note of the original has been dimmed down with all its loud statements of cherry, almond and marzipan. The beauty of a Guerlain vanilla always reveals itself in dialogue with its surroundings, as here too.
For the first time I notice the leather note, which should also be present in the original. It is very delicate and can only be perceived in the projection. And it is important, because the projection is what our environment perceives when we wear a scent. You should always try to place yourself next to your body when trying out a perfume. If you only press your nose to the the back of your hand you will miss a lot. For me, a piece of refinement and finesse becomes visible, as we attribute it to the classics of the French perfume art.
Compared to the original, L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum is the finer fragrance. The vanilla in front of the more discreet oriental-woody background gives me an impression of softness. For me, it's less for the office and going out, more for private, intimate occasions. If the original is for the week, then L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum is for Sunday.
Néroli Outrenoir
