Parure (1975)

Parure by Guerlain
Bottle Design: Robert Granai
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Parure is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1975. The scent is chypre-floral. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesPeach, Black pepper, Plum, Bergamot
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmine, Lilac, Narcissus, Patchouli, Balsamic notes, Musk
Base Notes Base NotesMoss, Rose, Leather

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (117 Ratings)

Longevity

8.6 (86 Ratings)

Sillage

7.2 (91 Ratings)

Bottle

8.9 (97 Ratings)
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 26.03.2019
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Reviews

8.0 8.0 9.0 7.5/10
DonJuanDeCat

0 Reviews
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DonJuanDeCat
DonJuanDeCat
Helpful Review    11
Jewelry sets, collect them all!
Hey hey, the year is drawing to a close and I'm showering you with some more comments before I say goodbye here for a few days (after Christmas) (boah, I can hear how some people are looking forward to having a week off, tsss...!).

Today I come to Guerlain's Parure.
Parure... what does that mean again? Well, I looked it up, and a parure is a jewelry combination. This means that different jewelry parts such as chains, rings, earrings, bracelets and so on have all been coordinated with each other in terms of design and so on. I don't have to tell you that when you're playing video games this whole thing reminds you of "set items," that is, equipment items of the same kind that you can put on, and depending on how many items you've found in the set, you get more bonuses in the game, like more life force, endurance, damage, strength, oh, there are a lot of things, depending on the game. Transferred to perfume and fragrances one could say:

If you carry 2 items of a set, you get +10 to write Kommi!
If you carry 3 items of a set, you get +20 enlarged scent cloud!
If you carry 4 items of a set, you get + 25% increased panty-drop opportunity! Mu ha ha, I wish :D

But before I bore you all with it and you probably don't understand what I'm talking about anyway, I'll come back to the fragrance. Parure are jewellery combinations that were regarded as status symbols, especially in the past. So every lady from Stand had to own such a collection! So, and Guerlain's Parure has been inspired by the completeness of such jewelry pieces and therefore probably reflects a sense of completeness and feminine kit. Probably with perfectly matched scents, but that will be seen now!

The fragrance:
The fragrance begins with intense fruity notes like plums and especially peaches, light, weak bergamot and a much stronger (oak) moss scent. The fragrance looks quite mature and classic already at the beginning and belongs from the fragrance point of view also something into the category like that of the Shalimar fragrances, so they are all quite feminine, only that Parure comes across much more mature.
From the jasmine comes a beautiful sweetness, moreover one smells lilac and narcissus as further flowery scents. I also smell the patchouli a little, because it exudes an earthy scent. There's a rather high animal note to that, but I don't think it comes from musk because musk smells different (and I don't smell it at all yet), so I can't assign this fragrance to a fragrance note. But what I still smell, and what is not in the fragrance pyramid, is a fragrance that reminds me of resins, especially mastic resin.
Over time, a light powderiness rises, making the fragrance softer and more pleasing. This relaxes the animal notes a little, as well as the oakmoss, but the fragrance remains quite mature. Well, it's like a typical fragrance for those days, which today comes across as more mature, more old-fashioned or more classic.
Later the fragrance is much softer, also as far as the animal notes are concerned again and therefore comes across even softer. One still smells flowers like jasmine and narcissus, but now roses are added, even if they are only moderately strong. Leather has also been added to the base, and now the musk can be smelled much more clearly (which, however, does not smell animal-like like civet or beaver horny, but simply smells "dark-sweetish"), which even later becomes stronger than jasmine as far as the sweet notes are concerned. A generally beautiful fragrance that sometimes smells more mature and serious than modern, sweet fragrances today.

The Sillage and the shelf life:
The Sillage is quite high, one is certainly surrounded by a larger scent cloud, which can be smelled well on one, and this also for some time away.
The shelf life is enormous, as you might expect from an older fragrance of this kind. I had the scent on one of those days when I was up quite long... and it still held quite well after sixteen hours, only then the Sillage had become a little weaker.

The bottle:
Before Guerlain started converting many of her bottles to uniform bottles (which fortunately still look beautiful), there were many more more individual bottles for her fragrances. From Parure there were so some flacons, whereby in my opinion one of the more beautiful of it is there, which one can see straight also here as Parfumo picture. So what looks like a bottle (or a bag :D), is filled with yellow scented liquid and has a nice, flower-like structure as lid. A nice bottle, but as I said, there were different bottles. At the bottom of the gallery there are some nice photos you could have a look at :)

So, Parure smells to me on the first smell immediately like a classic and typical fragrance of the 70's/80's and even still 90's. Intense, long-lasting, large fragrance cloud emitting, strongly scented of floral and chypre-like fragrances. He is very feminine, but nowadays he may seem very mature as mentioned, so in my opinion he is not for girls in the 20s or even early 30s.

Probably the scent was also an everyday scent at that time, which could also be worn at work, but today it seems to me more like a scent for an elegant evening or to go out for higher social occasions. It would probably be a bit inappropriate to use the scent for an Open Air Techno Festival :DD

But it is already worth testing because the fragrance is of high quality. He's heading for Shalimar, although I like Shalimar better. Besides I find Parure after many hours somehow also slightly strenuous...

Soo, that's it. I hope you'll forgive my initial nerdy tale about video games, but we're talking jewelry sets! SETS! One, who just occasionally walks over fantasy worlds and kills all possible opponents, can't think of anything else there :DD

See you next time :)
2 Replies
7.0 9.0 10.0/10
Duftsucht

0 Reviews
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Duftsucht
Duftsucht
Greatly helpful Review    14
We are the stuff dreams are made of and our little life begins and closes a sleep..
Parure came to me as befits such a fragrance. The really big overwhelming surprise appearance in the form of a completely unexpected rehearsal of dear E, who also separated from precious milliliters of Guet-Apens for me. What generosity!
I carefully dribbled two small drops of this sample onto my wrist this morning and now, at midnight, I don't want to go to bed without putting my impressions on paper before they fade in my sleep. The beginning of Parure reconciles me briefly with the fact that the fragrance has irretrievably disappeared into the shadows of the past, because it is herbaceous, gloomy and blatantly old-fashioned in my nose. Unfortunately, I have to report that the relief was extremely short-lived. Parure shows me his noblest jewels hour after hour, and every single stone sparkles like a star in sleepless night before a deep black sky. But Parure itself is the Milky Way, as it appears to us on a clear summer night, beauty that commands reverence, coupled with mystery, with inaccessibility, sometimes with the longing to overcome our own limited earthly existence.
In the meantime I have written some comments - and to such emotive jabbering, as some might think while reading, only two scents could seduce me so far and both are from Guerlain. This abundance of notes, which together form a wonderful unity. Velvety peach, surrounded by balsam, blossoms, tamed by delicate bitter moss, earth and citrus balance the fragile balance. Dark meets glistening radiance, sweet entwines bitter, lust seeks relaxation, longing fulfilment. Hour after hour elapses, Parure accompanies me, through a relaxed sunny day, through an evening full of work - and now into the depths of the night, into the arms of sleep... into which I let myself fall with confidence in order to dream. To dream of Venice, one of my favourite cities, of a beauty that sometimes takes my breath away and brings tears to my eyes, of its danger in the middle of the water, of its sometimes morbid charm. And every time I visit the city of my dreams, I have the feeling that everything would be correct if Venice were to sink into the sea sometime in the future, because Venice, too, made of the stuff that dreams are made of, is too heartbreakingly beautiful to exist, the Atlantis of the future, of which legends and legends will tell.
And so it is with me and Parure: It disappears in yesterday, but in today we enjoy it, talk and tell about it - and in tomorrow it will accompany us in our memories and dreams.
6 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    6
Parure
The signature scent is an obsolete model of perfume use. It was the perfume you mated with and wore exclusively day in, day out. If your perfume was discontinued or fatally reformulated, you were out of luck. I read often about the drawbacks of so many perfume releases each year. Creativity and exploration in commercial perfumery is stifled by market needs, narrow margins and short time frames for success. The explosion of 'niche' is impossible to keep up with without curation. Each year, hundreds of launches are aimed at the same fat middle of the bell curve. 25 years ago the dilemma was simply a dozen men's perfumes that tried to copy Davidoff Coolwater’s success after the fact. Today it’s hundreds of concurrent launches that all smell like Bleu de Chanel, each following the same model of risk management.

iTania Sanchez’s analysis that Chanel 5 wasn't successful due to marketing but to quality isn’t applicable to new perfumes. Half of those hundreds of simultaneous fragrances don't smell any worse or much different than Bleu. The quality, innovation or artistry of the product are the least important variables in the equation. Branding and marketing are the deciding factors and Chanel wins through PR power and prowess alone.

The lifelong signature fragrance has become a losing prospect. Perhaps a better model is to swim out a bit further and let the tide carry you. I don’t mean to Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Wall at Sephora. But investigate a bit. Interested in oud? You’ll have hundreds to choose from. Don't like oud? Try one of the throngs of translucent incense perfumes. Rose is having a moment these days and there are some gorgeous Rose perfumes. Why not try one of those? Even a genre as tired as for the Fruity Floral has been tested by evolution for long enough that there are some solid choices.

If you never step into the same river twice, maybe this constant flow of new perfumes isn't a bad thing. I can't think of any given time in the past 20 years when there haven't been a good number of exceptional perfumes available. I'm thrilled that Guerlain seem to have found a way to resurrect Mitsouko. But if it had simply gone the way, I would have shed a tear and moved on. This attitude is not ahistorical. There lineages, traditions and movements in perfumery that continue whether historical icons remain extant or not.

We reminisce about signature fragrances when we talk about dear old Gran who wore Arpège and Grand-dad who used to wear Caron pour un Homme. Forget the arcadian past and ask yourself, would anyone be better off still wearing Giorgio every day rather than having discovered Carnal Flower? What if your boss still wore Opium rather than l’Air du Désert Marocain?

The choices are there if you chose to act. Investigate new entries in a genre that you’ve like in the past. Discover something completely new. Follow a perfumer whose work you’ve admired. There’s a lot of perfume bliss to be followed these days

**

But back to Guerlain Parure and the value of the new. A large decant of the discontinued but coveted Parure was sent to me by a generous friend who has a particularly good ability to read perfume. I think there was some degree of test implied in the gift. What would I do with Parure? Thinking about the river of new releases has influenced my take on Parure.

From a market perspective, novelty has come to be a universally positive attribute. It has a value beyond mere goodness. If new is good, then newer is better. The latest is the greatest.

Oy, did Parure missed the boat.

Parure was released in 1975, composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain. For perspective, Guerlain released Chant d’Aromes, a prim powdery floral in 1962, Chamade, an exquisitely powerful green floral from 1969 and Nahema, an over-the-top disco queen in 1979. How is it possible that Parure is so much more in the mold of Chant d’Aromes than Nahema?

I don’t think Parure was intended to be retro. It was simply behind the times and was released into a market that had already had many similar fragrances for years. Aldehydic floral chypres: Paco Rabanne Calandre (1969), YSL Rive Gauche (1970). Green powdery chypres: Estée Lauder Private Collection (1973), Weil de Weil (1971). The more emancipated green fragrances had left the dainty green floral aldehyde behind. By emancipated, I mean taking the lead like Aromatics Elixir (1971), carefree like Revlon Charlie (1973), or active and engaged like Estée Lauder Aliage (1972). For god’s sake, 25-30 years prior women were wearing Rochas Femme (1943), Robert Piguet Bandit (1944) and Miss Dior (1947). These perfumes were erotic, some tacitly, others blatantly. They highlighted the sensuality of the body. By comparison, Parure suggested as much distance from the body as a perfume can make.

Parure was intended for a woman who closed the drawing room doors before the Summer of Love started and still hadn’t opened them in 1975. Even the name, “Parure” which means both a matched set of jewelry and, simply, finery, shows how out of step this perfume was in 1975.

But that was then. As a homo in 2014, I reclaim Parure. Its dynamics are delicate and balanced just so. Removed from the context of the retiring bourgeoise of the mid 1970s, it is a soft floral chypre with fruity elements that, after 15 years of syrupy tactless fruity florals, seem subtle and sexy. Appropriating staid perfumes that were well designed but fundamentally conservative and making them a bit come-hither breathes life into them. God, it's great to be queer.
9.0/10
Exciter76

32 Reviews
Exciter76
Exciter76
Helpful Review    3
Oakmoss and roses at their very best
I have never seen Somewhere In Time but I used to love the VHS cover for the movie. On it, Christopher Reeves is wistfully looking into the distance, dreamily wishing for the woman he loves, while a superimposed sketch of Jane Seymour represents his daydream. There was something so beautiful, so romantically vintage, and so surreal about that cover. If there ever was a fragrant interpretation of that VHS cover, Parure is it.

Wistful roses, an enchanted forest, whispering spices—all these things are trapped within the beautiful bottle. The roses contained within this perfume are a bit dusty but they are also opulent. If roses are the floral representation of eternal love, then Parure spends its days professing undying love. The oakmoss reinforces the ethereal aura and brings enchantment often found in fairy tales. The oakmoss sets up a scenario where a princess is imprisoned within a forest and a prince comes to save her, relying on unyielding love to be his weapon. Eventually the scent quiets down but never fully leaves, depositing sweet spices as a reminder that love never fully leaves either.

I am probably over-romanticizing this masterpiece of a fragrance. I suppose the cast and crew of Somewhere In Time over-romanticized time travel and art. But fantasy is one of life’s greatest gifts. I am contented to fantasize and over-romanticize a period of time—for me, I imagine dabbing Parure on during the Harlem Renaissance, before taking in a night of dancing with a handsome stranger. I am grateful for the chance to travel with Parure.

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