Parure 1975

Parure by Guerlain
Bottle Design Robert Granai
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8.5 / 10139 Ratings
Parure is a popular perfume by Guerlain for women and was released in 1975. The scent is chypre-floral. The longevity is above-average. The production was apparently discontinued. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesPeach, Black pepper, Plum, Bergamot
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmine, Lilac, Narcissus, Patchouli, Balsamic notes, Musk
Base Notes Base NotesMoss, Rose, Leather

Ratings

Scent

8.5139 Ratings

Longevity

8.6103 Ratings

Sillage

7.2109 Ratings

Bottle

9.1111 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 01.05.2021.
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Reviews

6
Scent
9
Longevity
10
Sillage
8
Bottle
6
Pricing
2020Antiope
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2020Antiope
2020Antiope
Top Review    28  
Fin de siècle? Belle Epoque? Paris 1920? Lavish homage or long outdated veneration?
After all' the highly praised and enthusiastic comments about Parure I have long hesitated to write something to this fragrance, which is contrary to this; also to avoid being "stoned" by outraged Parfumos (today one says probably rather S...storm to it).
Yes, yes; laugh you only; have I already experienced everything...

As an avowed Guerlain fan I was happy like a little child at Christmas to have received an original bottle of Parure in the "Umbrella" version and with almost devout reverence I sat down in front of my mirrored table to open it and let it have its effect on me...

.............................................................................................................................

I back away.

A lush smell of damp, earthy mosses, fading roses, animal manure, and as if forgiving of this less than flattering ingredient, some bergamot also rises to my nose. All of this leaves, albeit quickly disappearing, the unmistakable Guerlain signature, which fortunately also proves to be a salvation in this olfactory explosion for my nose in an allusion to Shalimar. Otherwise, I would have this for me strange composition of much different, which may not harmonize with each other and little defined, which is hardly awakened also already again stifled, immediately and full of reluctance put on the side for disposal.
Only my love and adoration for Guerlain kept me from it and in the hope that this perfume yet develops differently on my skin, I held out the next hour.

No. I don't stand a chance.
The intensity of the ingredients changes almost abruptly, like someone running 'up' and 'down' a flight of stairs for hours, then stopping again to catch their breath. Sometimes the mosses are in the foreground, 'sometimes the flowers drowned with dark Patchouly, 'sometimes the leather notes, rarely the bergamots.
But no matter who has just arrived at the top of the stairs, the smell of manure is always there as an accompaniment. And that is also what I no longer like to smell. It is unbearable, almost disgusting. There also the shalimarähnliche, flattering breath is of no use, which also breaks out every 'now and then, but has no power to act at least a little balancing.

In conclusion, I like to think of how parures served to adorn beautiful heads with elaborate (high) hairstyles and expansive décolletés; I have admired such wonderful, but for us commoners unaffordable diamond jewelry in the form of tiaras, necklaces and earrings in various exhibitions and also have an eye for the other magnificent gems with which the parures of the time were studded. The wardrobes of the ladies were no less elaborate and sumptuous, and just to match the lavish perfumes.

Parure, however, was not created until the 70s.
Was it about admiration and remembrance of the splendor of that time, or rather the celebration and rejoicing over the demise of the same? Why create a perfume that has such an obvious reference to the magnificent with its name, but whose "charm" lacks pretty much everything in charm? I don't. This is a perfume I am at a loss for and want to get rid of as soon as possible.

Quite unforgivingly, however, I do not like to throw down the gauntlet to Guerlain either; maybe I've got a bottle whose content is simply no longer in order...
17 Replies
10
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
9
Bottle
Nasenputz
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Nasenputz
Nasenputz
Top Review    18  
Parure the deepest bow for this fragrance that has no twin!
as a child I used to pass the most expensive hairdresser in our city on my way to school....this hairdresser had, in addition to fine fashion, as then Jil Sander; Missoni and
Caren Pfleger had a precious cosmetics department where only Guerlain and Orlane were available; for the small fishing town, completely decadent and only for the special clientele of the customers who drove from many big cities especially to him.
each time I enjoyed the scents that blew up to the Kieler Strasse and represented a unique - for me completely different world on a sunny day on the way back from school, I smelled a special scent...he immediately put me under his spell and captivated me like a spellbinder...
i ventured into the shop, a very chic saleswoman from the boutique came up to me on the left hand side and asked what I wanted...
i told her powder red, that i find the scent so unusual, that i could perceive it so well outside.... she got the recipes, who was probably also responsible for the perfumes and she introduced me to PARURE....she had demonstrated it herself several times today and that's why it hung 'in the air'.
YES
that was him......for me then as a layman
Leather Fresh elegance and simply indescribable!
i bought myself, since I had little money as a student at that time, after the lady had introduced me to the collection, the body cream, which I found too feminine from the presentation, pink cream in a glass jar, but the price was better for me than like pure perfume, whereby the flacon charmed me and flashte....
the body cream was my sanctuary...I always rubbed it on my arms and was connected with parure
today I have to smile myself but the love for Parure has remained,
later I treated myself to the perfume and eau de toilette
unfortunately even in Paris at Guerlain there is this wonderful fragrance
the leathery chypre scent, which for me is very well wearable for ladies and gentlemen
no more.
Parure- a perfume that unfortunately never made the breakthrough..... probably not because of its unique composition.... but whoever loved it once will never forget it!
a jewel!!!!
9 Replies
8.5
Scent
8
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
pudelbonzo
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pudelbonzo
pudelbonzo
Top Review    25  
The Grande Dame
It happened at the time when I wore Mitsouko and Shalimar alternately - and occasionally L air du Temps.

That was my fragrance collection - and I was happy with it.
I was in my early twenties and newlyweds.

My dear husband was very open to scents - and he also loved my Guerlains.

When a bottle ran out, he brought a new one into the house without being asked.
And one day, parure was on the dresser.

Also a Guerlain - he proudly proclaimed.

But this perfume which surrounded me, overtaxed my nose in the beginning.
I also missed the vanilla guerlainade.

Parure appeared quite immodest - when modesty is an " adornment ".

In its volume of beguiling flowers, mossy and leather it was a real "appearance" for me.

The grande dame entered the stage.

But I'm not that grande - and my stage was the stable.
I felt overdressed with parure somehow.

So I passed Parure on to my elegant stepmother, who was at home on the social scene.

And she dressed Parure perfectly.

Today I think it's a pity that I don't have Parure any more - because in the meantime I would have grown into this impressive scent - but at that time it was a few sizes too big for me.

Nevertheless I enjoyed it again and again, when my stepmother stepped into " appearance " with Parure.

The two had looked for each other - and found each other,
6 Replies
7.5
Scent
9
Longevity
8
Sillage
8
Bottle
DonJuanDeCat
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DonJuanDeCat
DonJuanDeCat
Helpful Review    12  
Jewelry sets, collect them all!
Hey hey, the year is drawing to a close and I'm showering you with some more comments before I say goodbye here for a few days (after Christmas) (boah, I can hear how some people are looking forward to having a week off, tsss...!).

Today I come to Guerlain's Parure.
Parure... what does that mean again? Well, I looked it up, and a parure is a jewelry combination. This means that different jewelry parts such as chains, rings, earrings, bracelets and so on have all been coordinated with each other in terms of design and so on. I don't have to tell you that when you're playing video games this whole thing reminds you of "set items," that is, equipment items of the same kind that you can put on, and depending on how many items you've found in the set, you get more bonuses in the game, like more life force, endurance, damage, strength, oh, there are a lot of things, depending on the game. Transferred to perfume and fragrances one could say:

If you carry 2 items of a set, you get +10 to write Kommi!
If you carry 3 items of a set, you get +20 enlarged scent cloud!
If you carry 4 items of a set, you get + 25% increased panty-drop opportunity! Mu ha ha, I wish :D

But before I bore you all with it and you probably don't understand what I'm talking about anyway, I'll come back to the fragrance. Parure are jewellery combinations that were regarded as status symbols, especially in the past. So every lady from Stand had to own such a collection! So, and Guerlain's Parure has been inspired by the completeness of such jewelry pieces and therefore probably reflects a sense of completeness and feminine kit. Probably with perfectly matched scents, but that will be seen now!

The fragrance:
The fragrance begins with intense fruity notes like plums and especially peaches, light, weak bergamot and a much stronger (oak) moss scent. The fragrance looks quite mature and classic already at the beginning and belongs from the fragrance point of view also something into the category like that of the Shalimar fragrances, so they are all quite feminine, only that Parure comes across much more mature.
From the jasmine comes a beautiful sweetness, moreover one smells lilac and narcissus as further flowery scents. I also smell the patchouli a little, because it exudes an earthy scent. There's a rather high animal note to that, but I don't think it comes from musk because musk smells different (and I don't smell it at all yet), so I can't assign this fragrance to a fragrance note. But what I still smell, and what is not in the fragrance pyramid, is a fragrance that reminds me of resins, especially mastic resin.
Over time, a light powderiness rises, making the fragrance softer and more pleasing. This relaxes the animal notes a little, as well as the oakmoss, but the fragrance remains quite mature. Well, it's like a typical fragrance for those days, which today comes across as more mature, more old-fashioned or more classic.
Later the fragrance is much softer, also as far as the animal notes are concerned again and therefore comes across even softer. One still smells flowers like jasmine and narcissus, but now roses are added, even if they are only moderately strong. Leather has also been added to the base, and now the musk can be smelled much more clearly (which, however, does not smell animal-like like civet or beaver horny, but simply smells "dark-sweetish"), which even later becomes stronger than jasmine as far as the sweet notes are concerned. A generally beautiful fragrance that sometimes smells more mature and serious than modern, sweet fragrances today.

The Sillage and the shelf life:
The Sillage is quite high, one is certainly surrounded by a larger scent cloud, which can be smelled well on one, and this also for some time away.
The shelf life is enormous, as you might expect from an older fragrance of this kind. I had the scent on one of those days when I was up quite long... and it still held quite well after sixteen hours, only then the Sillage had become a little weaker.

The bottle:
Before Guerlain started converting many of her bottles to uniform bottles (which fortunately still look beautiful), there were many more more individual bottles for her fragrances. From Parure there were so some flacons, whereby in my opinion one of the more beautiful of it is there, which one can see straight also here as Parfumo picture. So what looks like a bottle (or a bag :D), is filled with yellow scented liquid and has a nice, flower-like structure as lid. A nice bottle, but as I said, there were different bottles. At the bottom of the gallery there are some nice photos you could have a look at :)

So, Parure smells to me on the first smell immediately like a classic and typical fragrance of the 70's/80's and even still 90's. Intense, long-lasting, large fragrance cloud emitting, strongly scented of floral and chypre-like fragrances. He is very feminine, but nowadays he may seem very mature as mentioned, so in my opinion he is not for girls in the 20s or even early 30s.

Probably the scent was also an everyday scent at that time, which could also be worn at work, but today it seems to me more like a scent for an elegant evening or to go out for higher social occasions. It would probably be a bit inappropriate to use the scent for an Open Air Techno Festival :DD

But it is already worth testing because the fragrance is of high quality. He's heading for Shalimar, although I like Shalimar better. Besides I find Parure after many hours somehow also slightly strenuous...

Soo, that's it. I hope you'll forgive my initial nerdy tale about video games, but we're talking jewelry sets! SETS! One, who just occasionally walks over fantasy worlds and kills all possible opponents, can't think of anything else there :DD

See you next time :)
2 Replies
10
Scent
9
Longevity
7
Sillage
Duftsucht
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Duftsucht
Duftsucht
Top Review    16  
We are the stuff dreams are made of and our little life begins and closes a sleep..
Parure came to me as befits such a fragrance. The really big overwhelming surprise appearance in the form of a completely unexpected rehearsal of dear E, who also separated from precious milliliters of Guet-Apens for me. What generosity!
I carefully dribbled two small drops of this sample onto my wrist this morning and now, at midnight, I don't want to go to bed without putting my impressions on paper before they fade in my sleep. The beginning of Parure reconciles me briefly with the fact that the fragrance has irretrievably disappeared into the shadows of the past, because it is herbaceous, gloomy and blatantly old-fashioned in my nose. Unfortunately, I have to report that the relief was extremely short-lived. Parure shows me his noblest jewels hour after hour, and every single stone sparkles like a star in sleepless night before a deep black sky. But Parure itself is the Milky Way, as it appears to us on a clear summer night, beauty that commands reverence, coupled with mystery, with inaccessibility, sometimes with the longing to overcome our own limited earthly existence.
In the meantime I have written some comments - and to such emotive jabbering, as some might think while reading, only two scents could seduce me so far and both are from Guerlain. This abundance of notes, which together form a wonderful unity. Velvety peach, surrounded by balsam, blossoms, tamed by delicate bitter moss, earth and citrus balance the fragile balance. Dark meets glistening radiance, sweet entwines bitter, lust seeks relaxation, longing fulfilment. Hour after hour elapses, Parure accompanies me, through a relaxed sunny day, through an evening full of work - and now into the depths of the night, into the arms of sleep... into which I let myself fall with confidence in order to dream. To dream of Venice, one of my favourite cities, of a beauty that sometimes takes my breath away and brings tears to my eyes, of its danger in the middle of the water, of its sometimes morbid charm. And every time I visit the city of my dreams, I have the feeling that everything would be correct if Venice were to sink into the sea sometime in the future, because Venice, too, made of the stuff that dreams are made of, is too heartbreakingly beautiful to exist, the Atlantis of the future, of which legends and legends will tell.
And so it is with me and Parure: It disappears in yesterday, but in today we enjoy it, talk and tell about it - and in tomorrow it will accompany us in our memories and dreams.
6 Replies
9
Scent
8
Longevity
7
Sillage
8
Bottle
loewenherz
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loewenherz
loewenherz
Top Review    47  
And we've forgotten what bread tastes like...
I know: in anthropological-philosophical (and pretty much every other respect) being is much nobler and more desirable than having. And yet sometimes it is the having that is just so much more fun. And one that I would really like to have - in the sense of 'owning an original bottle' - is Guerlain's Parure. Not because I want to wear it myself. Not because his flacon is so beautiful. It's simply because I want to have it. Because it's high art and a piece of perfume history. And a caress of the nose
Although I am a convinced representative of 'everyone should wear the fragrance he or she likes' - no matter whether he or she happens to be labelled as a ladies' or men's fragrance (and I practice this very consistently myself): I cannot imagine a gentleman to be parure. So ingratiating and melting, so calm and serious and so receptive is he - like the strings of a cello fading away in a lightless room, full of damaged softness and delicate grace, like dark golden summer evening sun on gently quivering peach skin.

Peach - fruits in general - are very clearly perceptible, but in a completely different way than is known from contemporary 'fruit scents'. Voluminous. Incredibly precisely arranged. Parure is a demanding fragrance from the very beginning, which promises knowledge if you get involved with it. One cannot really get involved with it at all - its course lures the nose like a floating light deeper and deeper into its olfactorically unbelievably densely woven timbre of nocturnal blossoms, sweet and bitter fruits and sienna-coloured wood.

Parure is Guerlain's tribute to womanhood. Far more than Mitsouko, Jicky or L'Heure Bleue, all of which can be worn well by (daring) men. Even more than the recent, sometimes missed sugar water from the pen of Mr. Water. Parure lies down on the skin like a whisper, is a dove and a snake at the same time - and tells in polished Guerlainian language (which is far too short to describe 'Chypre' here) what it means to be a woman. One who once had it in his or her nose, never lets go.

Conclusion: 'And we have forgotten what bread tastes like. How trees whisper. How the wind caresses. We have even forgotten our name.. So the Halfling Sméagol tells how the 'treasure' changed him after he had taken violent possession of it - and the cursed creature Gollum made him. Perhaps not so bad after all that I don't have this one here - Parure, the godfather among the chypres of Guerlain - the one who is able to make you forget what bread tastes like. Whisper like trees. Like the wind caressing.
16 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    6  
Parure
The signature scent is an obsolete model of perfume use. It was the perfume you mated with and wore exclusively day in, day out. If your perfume was discontinued or fatally reformulated, you were out of luck. I read often about the drawbacks of so many perfume releases each year. Creativity and exploration in commercial perfumery is stifled by market needs, narrow margins and short time frames for success. The explosion of 'niche' is impossible to keep up with without curation. Each year, hundreds of launches are aimed at the same fat middle of the bell curve. 25 years ago the dilemma was simply a dozen men's perfumes that tried to copy Davidoff Coolwater’s success after the fact. Today it’s hundreds of concurrent launches that all smell like Bleu de Chanel, each following the same model of risk management.

iTania Sanchez’s analysis that Chanel 5 wasn't successful due to marketing but to quality isn’t applicable to new perfumes. Half of those hundreds of simultaneous fragrances don't smell any worse or much different than Bleu. The quality, innovation or artistry of the product are the least important variables in the equation. Branding and marketing are the deciding factors and Chanel wins through PR power and prowess alone.

The lifelong signature fragrance has become a losing prospect. Perhaps a better model is to swim out a bit further and let the tide carry you. I don’t mean to Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Wall at Sephora. But investigate a bit. Interested in oud? You’ll have hundreds to choose from. Don't like oud? Try one of the throngs of translucent incense perfumes. Rose is having a moment these days and there are some gorgeous Rose perfumes. Why not try one of those? Even a genre as tired as for the Fruity Floral has been tested by evolution for long enough that there are some solid choices.

If you never step into the same river twice, maybe this constant flow of new perfumes isn't a bad thing. I can't think of any given time in the past 20 years when there haven't been a good number of exceptional perfumes available. I'm thrilled that Guerlain seem to have found a way to resurrect Mitsouko. But if it had simply gone the way, I would have shed a tear and moved on. This attitude is not ahistorical. There lineages, traditions and movements in perfumery that continue whether historical icons remain extant or not.

We reminisce about signature fragrances when we talk about dear old Gran who wore Arpège and Grand-dad who used to wear Caron pour un Homme. Forget the arcadian past and ask yourself, would anyone be better off still wearing Giorgio every day rather than having discovered Carnal Flower? What if your boss still wore Opium rather than l’Air du Désert Marocain?

The choices are there if you chose to act. Investigate new entries in a genre that you’ve like in the past. Discover something completely new. Follow a perfumer whose work you’ve admired. There’s a lot of perfume bliss to be followed these days

**

But back to Guerlain Parure and the value of the new. A large decant of the discontinued but coveted Parure was sent to me by a generous friend who has a particularly good ability to read perfume. I think there was some degree of test implied in the gift. What would I do with Parure? Thinking about the river of new releases has influenced my take on Parure.

From a market perspective, novelty has come to be a universally positive attribute. It has a value beyond mere goodness. If new is good, then newer is better. The latest is the greatest.

Oy, did Parure missed the boat.

Parure was released in 1975, composed by Jean-Paul Guerlain. For perspective, Guerlain released Chant d’Aromes, a prim powdery floral in 1962, Chamade, an exquisitely powerful green floral from 1969 and Nahema, an over-the-top disco queen in 1979. How is it possible that Parure is so much more in the mold of Chant d’Aromes than Nahema?

I don’t think Parure was intended to be retro. It was simply behind the times and was released into a market that had already had many similar fragrances for years. Aldehydic floral chypres: Paco Rabanne Calandre (1969), YSL Rive Gauche (1970). Green powdery chypres: Estée Lauder Private Collection (1973), Weil de Weil (1971). The more emancipated green fragrances had left the dainty green floral aldehyde behind. By emancipated, I mean taking the lead like Aromatics Elixir (1971), carefree like Revlon Charlie (1973), or active and engaged like Estée Lauder Aliage (1972). For god’s sake, 25-30 years prior women were wearing Rochas Femme (1943), Robert Piguet Bandit (1944) and Miss Dior (1947). These perfumes were erotic, some tacitly, others blatantly. They highlighted the sensuality of the body. By comparison, Parure suggested as much distance from the body as a perfume can make.

Parure was intended for a woman who closed the drawing room doors before the Summer of Love started and still hadn’t opened them in 1975. Even the name, “Parure” which means both a matched set of jewelry and, simply, finery, shows how out of step this perfume was in 1975.

But that was then. As a homo in 2014, I reclaim Parure. Its dynamics are delicate and balanced just so. Removed from the context of the retiring bourgeoise of the mid 1970s, it is a soft floral chypre with fruity elements that, after 15 years of syrupy tactless fruity florals, seem subtle and sexy. Appropriating staid perfumes that were well designed but fundamentally conservative and making them a bit come-hither breathes life into them. God, it's great to be queer.
9
Scent
Exciter76

34 Reviews
Exciter76
Exciter76
Helpful Review    3  
Oakmoss and roses at their very best
I have never seen Somewhere In Time but I used to love the VHS cover for the movie. On it, Christopher Reeves is wistfully looking into the distance, dreamily wishing for the woman he loves, while a superimposed sketch of Jane Seymour represents his daydream. There was something so beautiful, so romantically vintage, and so surreal about that cover. If there ever was a fragrant interpretation of that VHS cover, Parure is it.

Wistful roses, an enchanted forest, whispering spices—all these things are trapped within the beautiful bottle. The roses contained within this perfume are a bit dusty but they are also opulent. If roses are the floral representation of eternal love, then Parure spends its days professing undying love. The oakmoss reinforces the ethereal aura and brings enchantment often found in fairy tales. The oakmoss sets up a scenario where a princess is imprisoned within a forest and a prince comes to save her, relying on unyielding love to be his weapon. Eventually the scent quiets down but never fully leaves, depositing sweet spices as a reminder that love never fully leaves either.

I am probably over-romanticizing this masterpiece of a fragrance. I suppose the cast and crew of Somewhere In Time over-romanticized time travel and art. But fantasy is one of life’s greatest gifts. I am contented to fantasize and over-romanticize a period of time—for me, I imagine dabbing Parure on during the Harlem Renaissance, before taking in a night of dancing with a handsome stranger. I am grateful for the chance to travel with Parure.

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