Cuiron 2014

Version from 2014
Cuiron (2014) by Helmut Lang
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8.2 / 1087 Ratings
Cuiron (2014) is a popular perfume by Helmut Lang for women and men and was released in 2014. The scent is leathery-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Fragrance Notes

LeatherLeather
SuedeSuede
Mandarin orangeMandarin orange
Pink pepperPink pepper
CassiaCassia
WoodsWoods
ResinsResins
BergamotBergamot

Ratings

Scent

8.287 Ratings

Longevity

6.675 Ratings

Sillage

6.081 Ratings

Bottle

8.184 Ratings
Submitted by Moenti, last update on 11.10.2021.
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Reviews

8
Scent
7
Longevity
6
Sillage
9
Bottle
Afterdark

1 Review
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Afterdark
Afterdark
Helpful Review    7  
Salt Leather
I like him. A quiet, light, elegant leather with slip and tie in grey.
He is not a screamer, nor is he one of those countless sweet saffron-vanilla syrup leathers that have become so fashionable.

The leather here is a bit salty and soapy, a bit flowery on top of that and that makes it a creation in its own right. A leather that you can wear not only on cold but also on warm summer days or even in spring and autumn
2 Replies
7.5
Scent
4
Longevity
4
Sillage
7
Bottle
Pepdal

228 Reviews
Pepdal
Pepdal
   1  
Cuiron (2014)
My final review for the current line of Helmut Lang fragrances. Cuiron appears to get a bit more talk than the other two, so I was excited the first time I ever got to test this one. As i mention in the video, I have not smelled the original as a comparison. Enjoy


2 Replies
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Very helpful Review    5  
leather, revised
I don’t know the original Cuiron, but the consensus is that the new version is very close to the original. Not 100%, but the shape and the intent are the same. Cuiron’s reissue was hotly awaited but following the curse-of-threes in perfume releases it was somewhat overshadowed by its siblings Helmut Lang EDP and EDC.

The timing of the reissue was awkward. As a 2014 version of a 2002 perfume, it’s neither new nor vintage, so it arrives with two strikes against it. One, it’s a reformulation and, two, even if the restoration is flawless, it’s not old enough to be retro, just out of fashion.

I imagine that even when it was first released Cuiron was neither fish nor fowl. Ostensibly leather but actually more woody than anything else. Largely synthetic but not unapologetically so like many other millennial niche perfumes (eg. Comme des Garçons, l’Artisan Parfumeurs, Etat Libre d’Orange). Minimal but a little fussy. From the perspective of 2014 the neither/nor bit is magnified, giving Cuiron a house-of-mirrors quality that makes it seem endlessly referential.

To wit: Cuiron shares the hissy, gasoline topnotes of a few power-masculines that preceded it, namely Hermès Bel Ami and Dior Fahrenheit. Even Chanel Antaeus for that matter. It manages to find the neutral territory between the plush of Knize Ten and the starkness of ELDO Rien. Cuiron’s synth-woodiness narrowly misses the over-reliance on Iso-E Super that many of the era fell prey to, yet it hints at the freeze-dried hollowness of the norlimbanol beasts that would follow. Cuiron’s shiny, metallic topnotes are oddly reminiscent of Guerlain Coriolan, linking it to the generation of lost masculines like Paco Rabanne Ténéré, Givenchy Insensé and Jacomo Anthracite. It’s freaky how many other perfumes Cuiron brings to mind.

It’s arguable that Cuiron lacks individuality or identity. It’s not as specific as some other leather perfumes but it fits the straightforwardness of the Lang aesthetic. For those attuned to the quiet detail of the brand’s signature minimalism Cuiron was probably fairly loud but it was less bombastic than the power-fragrances and brassy fougères that preceded it.

The reissued Cuiron doesn’t suffer from reformulation, but expectation gets the better of it. The original edition gathered a cult following, especially after it was discontinued. In 2002 Cuiron would have been the star of a rising niche wave. In 2014 Cuiron faced more competition and a more informed perfume consumer. It will be interesting to see how Cuiron survives in this new setting.

from scenthurdle.com
6
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
2.5
Bottle
OcD

6 Reviews
OcD
OcD
   0  
What's All, The Hub Bub ?
I have heard good things about this, and for the likes of me, I cannot see why . I am currently wearing HELMUT LANG'S CUIRON , and it does not smell natural, or special in any way . I don't really get any leather either . This smells like the typical synthetic fragrance You can pick up at Macy's .
1 Replies
9
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
ScentFan

331 Reviews
ScentFan
ScentFan
Helpful Review    6  
Art for a Nose
Helmut Lang makes art, in both clothes and fragrance. Almost every photograph on the website could hang in a museum. The clothes are funky gorgeousness. So is this perfume. Brought back this year with two others originally introduced in the early 2000's, Cuiron immediately delighted my nose and went onto my wish list, where it won't linger. I suppose I smell its leather and suede notes, the mandarin, too, but soon the notes combine to just say, "Wear me, I am beautiful." It's the kind of fragrance I imagine the fashion icon Marlene Dietrich would have worn. She was art, too, in both speech and appearance. Maybe Marlene, a staunchly anti-Nazi German, inspired neighboring Austrian Lang about how to make art out of a life. I wouldn't be surprised. She was a movie star and cabaret artist, who privately engaged in both short and long-terms affairs with the famous of her day while happily maintaining her husband and his mistress. All this behind a mask of alluring, inscrutable femininity. Life as art, perfume as art. Lang sold 51% of his company to Prada, retired from fashion in 2005 and (no surprise) had his first solo art exhibition in 2008. The sillage isn't super strong, but inscrutability doesn't demand it. Get close, though, and you're sunk.
2 Replies

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