Eau d'Hermès (1951)

7.6 / 10     171 RatingsRatingsRatings
Eau d'Hermès is a popular perfume by Hermès for women and men and was released in 1951. The scent is spicy-animal. It is still in production.

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamot, Cardamom, Clover, Lavender, Cinnamon
Heart Notes Heart NotesGeranium, Jasmine, Tonka bean, Vanilla
Base Notes Base NotesBirch, Leather, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Cedar

Ratings

Scent

7.6 (171 Ratings)

Longevity

7.3 (120 Ratings)

Sillage

6.3 (122 Ratings)

Bottle

7.9 (123 Ratings)
Submitted by Profumo, last update on 18.06.2019
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Reviews

9.0 8.0 8.0 10.0/10
Can777

6 Reviews
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Can777
Can777
Greatly helpful Review    40
The Thoroughbred
It was the first scent of Hermès. He was the firstborn in a long era of house creations. Eau d'Hermès is the thoroughbred of all Hermès perfumes for me. He is the progenitor and the actual coat of arms of the dynasty. But like many old dynasties and houses, Hermès has unspoken secrets. From the very beginning, Eau d'Hermès has divided minds into lovers and opponents. Why is that? Because it's the most animal scent of all! Hermès is known for its equestrian sport and its exquisite leather goods, which now cost astronomical sums of money. But Eau d'Hermès is not dedicated to leather or to a handbag as so often believed. That's not the case. It was dedicated to the biggest customer of the house,...a horse!

Where Bel Ami represents a racehorse in full kit, Eau d'Hermès represents the soul of the horse itself. Eau d'Hermès Is gentle but wild at the same time. The fragrance has something unbridled, but also something very familiar and sublime. You can't necessarily rely on the scent pyramid here. Eau d'Hermès reacts also here like a horse itself to its rider with sympathy or dislike on the skin of the wearer. A short fresh introduction with bergamot and gently ethereal lavender, then immediately appears the cinnamon with gentle creamy vibrations of bitter-sweet cardamom. Herbaceous rose geranium give the fragrance a little more green spice. For a long time this impression remains until it passes into the actual base. Birch or better birch tar and a slightly more acidic leather chord unfolds, but never becomes unpleasant because it seems restrained by the still existing cinnamon note and a very successful combination of spicy tonka and warm vanilla chords. All notes and chords harmonize perfectly with each other!

But what's the secret of the house now? What is it that makes this fragrance so animalistic? It's an unlisted note in the actual pyramid. Namely Zibet! These notes can be recognized from the very beginning for experienced noses. It is already hidden in the top note and mixes with the bergamot. Later it reappears in the base when the birch-leather chord takes effect. Since Zibet has a sour-leathery smell, it can camouflage and hide under the bergamot and the leather very well. However, it is available in such small quantities that it never really comes to bear among the other notes. This small amount is enough to give the fragrance its gentle animalic aura and breathe life into it. Hermès never mentioned this, because it could deter such fine society.

Conclusion
You have to want eau d'hermès, or better yet, you have to be wanted. Personally, I love him very much and he develops very well on my skin. Now I feel better than when I was young. He's incredibly warning, soft and sensitive. I used to prefer Bel Ami because he was wild and boisterous and louder. Today I prefer Eau d'Hermès because for me it symbolizes sublime and restrained power and a measure of elegance. It may be animalistic for one or the other, but that is a horse or equestrian sport. I used to ride myself, which I wouldn't do today, even if I often think back to it. But if I want to look again into the soul of a horse, then I reach for Eau d'Hermès. It is the four-legged calling card of the House of Hermès and the progenitor of the dynasty.

Eau d'Hermès Is not a handbag, it's a thoroughbred and the beginning of a story!
24 Replies
7.5 5.0 5.0 9.0/10
Cumulnimbus

74 Reviews
Cumulnimbus
Cumulnimbus
3
A elegant, peculiar and sensual eau by monsieur Roudnitska
Eau d'Hermes had been in my want list for a long time, I've had a mini of the vintage copper cap version for ages. It has been a long term obsession of mine and have rejected to buy it in the contemporary version several times. Finally, I could recently find a full bottle of the vintage version and I am so happy I finally add it to my collection I had to write a review as an homage to the master.

This is indeed a strange animal but such a beautiful one. It is a time capsule too, and is like nothing you know. Eau d'Hermes isn't what you usually expect an eau to be, it develops from a spicy citrus (I would swear there is some coriander and clove apart from the cardamom and cinnamon) which blends to a floral stage with lavender and geranium to end in an amazing slightly sweet, soft and animalic close to skin leather scent (made from the mixture of cummin and birch notes in combination with cedar, tonka, vanilla and I would say some moss too. This glorious drydown is like the smell of your warm skin kept under a high quality leather jacket.

I don't find it dirty, I find it altogether elegant, sensual and discreet. Perfect leisure eau de cologne that maybe not for everybody but just some leather lover men and women, young and not so young.

As an eau de cologne its sillage and longevity are moderate.
7.5 5.0 5.0 8.0/10
MemoryOScent

37 Reviews
MemoryOScent
MemoryOScent
6
rude eau de cologne
Created in 1951 by none other than Edmond Roudnitska, it is a piece of olfactory history by anyone’s definition. And reformulations aside it smells like it. Nothing out there smells like this. It opens with a greasy bergamot note that comes hand in hand with earthy cumin. This opening is the most challenging part of the composition. It is not fresh or clean like an Eau should be. It is dirty and sour like no one would expect and with a vinegary vibe. Soon after the weird opening accord hits you with its individuality the heart notes come into play adding warmth. Cinnamon, cardamom and tonka are the unlikely continuation of the rude opening walking in on a bridge of geranium. The cinnamon is hot, peppery and is the most prominent of the spice notes. Up to this point there is nothing in the composition to justify naming this an “Eau”. But soon after the heartnotes establish themselves the entire composition takes an unexpected turn. It starts to soften, becomes rounder and more mellow. A delicate slightly powdery leather starts to develop leaving the strange opening behind. Eau d’Hermès becomes a light, airy composition that manages to incorporate the plush leather note in a delicate way that reminds me Cuir de Lancome. All in all It is remarkable scent that transcends perfume genres and styles. It starts citrusy and spicy to end up luxurious and soft. From aggressive opening to delicate base. It is old fashioned in the same way that Bandit is old fashioned: it showcases that there was a time were perfumers took their audience with them on an adventure, rather than recreated the familiar.

Notes from my nose: bergamot, cumin, vinegar, cinnamon, cardamom, tonka, leather, powder
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
3
Most eaux de cologne smile dumbly. This one laughs sarcastically.
I wore eau d’Hermes today. Eau d’Hermes is my favorite eau de cologne. I think I wear edc for different reasons than most men. If I want simple, fresh and bracing (what I think most people want or expect from a cologne) I’ll rub on a little tea tree or lavender oil out of the shower. I turn to my colognes for a timeframe and a progression that grabs your attention when you pour it on, excites you as it fills the air around you for a few moments, then quickly quiets down to Something Else. Mugler’s cologne’s something else is that odd nose equivalent of a tuning fork crossed with a dog whistle. CdG’s Anbar’s something else is that hint of amber that would take you 12 hours to reach in an amber-oriental but you find 15 minutes after applying Anbar.

Eau d’Hermes’s something else is funk. I enjoy the decadence of stepping clean from the shower and inducing that wonderful skin scent that might otherwise take some sweat and a good few hours of ripening. I love the fact that skin smells. EdH just gets me there faster.

(note: I only know the copper cap version.)

Perfume Classification by the Community


Photos by the Community

200ml EDT (vintage) 7.5ml miniature (2001) 100ml EDT (modern) 7.5ml EDT (vintage) 200ml EDT (2001) 30ml EDT vintage 100ml EDT (2001) 75ml EDT in Leather Atomiser (1990s)
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