Rêve en Cuir 2008

Rêve en Cuir by Indult
Bottle Design Etienne de Souza
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7.0 / 1013 Ratings
Rêve en Cuir is a perfume by Indult for women and men and was released in 2008. The scent is woody-spicy. It is still available to purchase. Pronunciation
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Fragrance Notes

LeatherLeather
BergamotBergamot
LemonLemon
CloveClove
CardamomCardamom
Pink pepperPink pepper
HayHay
OreganoOregano
SuedeSuede
CedarwoodCedarwood
VetiverVetiver

Ratings

Scent

7.013 Ratings

Longevity

6.511 Ratings

Sillage

6.011 Ratings

Bottle

6.314 Ratings
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 23.01.2022.
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Reviews

jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    3  
Reve en Cuir
Some notes are easier than others. Not to create, but to accept at face value. Vanilla is one. People recognize 'vanilla', whether it's a vanilla bean or ethyl vanillin. Synthetic vanilla aromachemicals are used because they smell ‘like’ vanilla.

Leather requires a little more imagination. There are more links in the chain of associations that lead to the scent of leather. It’s not even strictly leather that we smell, it’s the combination of the hides and the chemicals of the tanning process. The scent of leather is not one particular thing, but a range of tones in the spectrum of leather.

However a material is derived, if it smells ‘like’ vanilla, it can be considered vanilla. Perfume composition relies on an olfactory algebra: let x = vanilla. Leather presents a more interesting premise to the perfumer. After a connection from A through Z is made, our neurology doesn’t perceive the steps in a chain of associations, just the connection of A and Z. Whether we see the links or not, they are there for the perfumer to play with, making leather a playground of abstraction. Witness the birch tar leathers from early in the early 20th century, the inky synthetic leathers that followed and the range of floral and plastic leathers that came along as compositional rules loosened.

The goal of creating a leather perfume isn’t emulation of leather, though perfume marketing has historically spun piles of bullshit about leather opera gloves, black leather corsets and the innards of Birkin bags. Leather is the inspiration, not the goal. There are as many strategies to composing a leather perfume as there are sub-genres. See: Vierges et Toreros’s lucite leather. S-Ex’s subliminal musky leather. Azurée’s sizzling citrus leather. Bel Ami’s gasoline leather. Cuir de Russie’s iris leather. Cuir d’Ange’s herbal-soapy leather.

Reve en Cuir’s approach isn’t novel but it is effective. It creates a hissy topnote similar to the violet-leaf gasoline of Dior Fahrenheit and its predecessor, Bel Ami. The topnotes sharpen, coalescing into a cool, sweet, clove-like heart. Reve en Cuir’s richness comes from intricacy and what it lacks in projection it makes up for in evolution and duration. It balances richness with precision editing and, though it smells like no particular leather object, it is perfectly coherent. Exemplary of Kurkdjian’s best work, it isn’t radical but it is inventive and intelligible.

from scenthurdle.com
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
Helpful Review    2  
Unremarkable imaginary leather
Reve en Cuir opens with a load of cloves juxtaposed to sweet, tart notes of vanilla, citrus (not that “citric”, rather aromatic and plushy) and nutty-resinous cardamom. I don’t get much oregano honestly, and I was intrigued by that as despite I love it, I rarely smell it in fragrances. But I do smell something more generically mossy-herbal, and also something somehow “woody-syrupy” if that makes sense, something like the cedar note in Lutens’ Cèdre if you know the fragrance. Now, the contrast between the pungent sharpness of cloves and herbs, and the sweet-tart-nutty notes of vanilla, citrus and cardamom (and that sweet, cedar-like note), is not exactly the most pleasant clash around in my opinion: it’s interesting at first, but soon a bit cloying to me. And overall that is my take on this scent, since it does not have much of an evolution; it has something that just does not work in my opinion. It’s not that pleasant, not particularly refined, not that deep or compelling, and on the other hand, not enough “creatively stinky” to represent some sort of creative statement. It’s just... don’t know, a “meh”. The drydown would be nicer, if it was just a bit louder, while it’s really close to skin. Sweet-woody-herbal cloves for hours, basically, with a warm and soft drydown; nothing bad, but nothing particularly remarkable either (especially for the price).

6-6,5/10
6
Scent
2.5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Drseid

809 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   3  
Ressurected, But Still Lacking Life...
Reve en Cuir opens with a mild clove and herb spiced cedar before transitioning to its middle. During the early heart the spiced cedar remains now joined by an emerging powdery vanilla rising from the base and a very subtle supporting suede accord. During the late dry-down the powdery vanilla dominates as the composition quickly fades. Projection is below average, as is longevity at 6-7 hours on skin.

I can only describe Reve en Cuir as a disappointment. It is disappointing because the suede leather is so subtle it gets overpowered (or should that be "over-powdered") by the vanilla base note which isn't that strong to begin with. Cedar is also detectable from the get-go, but this is not really the kind of cedar I enjoy, unfortunately, with its implementation strongly resembling pencil shavings. The whole thing comes off as way too introverted for my tastes; highly polished, but somehow missing heart and spunk. The bottom line is the $200 per 50ml bottle Reve en Cuir is a polished composition for sure though it comes off detached with wimpy performance, earning an "above average" to "good" rating of 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5. It is tough to recommend Reve en Cuir at its relatively lofty price point with the less costly Duchaufour composed Cuir de Nacre by Ann Gerard being a much better smelling and implemented alternative.

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