The Brothers Grimm´s sleeping rose
"A large hedge of thorns soon grew round the palace, and every year it became higher and thicker; till at last the old palace was surrounded and hidden, so that not even the roof or the chimneys could be seen. But there went a report through all the land of the beautiful sleeping Briar Rose (for so the king’s daughter was called)..."
Ineke´s Briar Rose could easily transport me to a fairy tale and make me happy ever after. Rose is treated here in a very specific way, i mean, it doesn´t feel like one more rose, but instead there is a deep, thoughtful approach to the Sweet Briar (rosa rubiginosa/eglanteria)in a way that it creates an experience middle way between the botanical depiction and the poetry. I wonder if the rest of the Floral Curiosities have the same spirit and quality, and i am very looking forward to discover them.
The briar rose note is, then, the leit motiv of the fragance, but it experiences a brilliant evolution on my skin: it starts in the very floor of the woods and it ends in the fruit, rose-hips and blackberries (other rosacea for that matter)
So it opens with this rugged rose wrapped in a concoction of spices,very earthy patchouli,cocoa, and maybe some bitter oiliness from the almond, that creates an almost leatherish feeling. I guess it is the cardamom here, but I have a flashback to Déclaration d´un Soir, being Briar Rose more delectable in my opinion, with a more defined rose. They share certain sheer sensuality and a specific type of darkness (transparent, not thick) The rose-leather aspect in the beginning also recall the interesting Whips & Roses by Kerosene.
The rose note, so, appears vigorous and in shadows as it starts, fresh, natural smelling, with some green accents, like violet leaf. This is the woodland part.
"Now that very day the hundred years were ended; and as the prince came to the thicket he saw nothing but beautiful flowering shrubs, through which he went with ease, and they shut in after him as thick as ever." As fragance develops the thorny stems get fruitier and cheekier. Rose is so sensual and seductive. Add a tarty apple like note (apparently the foliage of briar rose smell alike apples), sweet violet nuances and, most important, a generous cluster of blackberries falling in between the five-petal roses, close to the sleeping beauty´s cheeks. Love is in the air. And it smells like it ends well.
The fruity rose character of Briar Rose has quite an above average longevity on my skin and a discreet-but-strong sillage if that makes any sense. Its sweetness and fruitiness is completely natural smelling, fresh and not flavour-type. I also see it as a shared rose fragance thanks to its rural character, specially its shadier early stages. Bottle worthy, in my opinion.