Floral Curiosities - Briar Rose 2011

Floral Curiosities - Briar Rose by Ineke
Bottle Design Ramona Rühland, Helena Seo
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7.2 / 1030 Ratings
Floral Curiosities - Briar Rose is a limited perfume by Ineke for women and was released in 2011. The scent is floral-fruity. The production was apparently discontinued. Limited Edition
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Perfumer

Ineke Rühland

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesGreen appleGreen apple Black raspberryBlack raspberry
Heart Notes Heart NotesSweet violetSweet violet CloveClove CardamomCardamom Eglantine roseEglantine rose CinnamonCinnamon
Base Notes Base NotesBitter almondBitter almond Cocoa absoluteCocoa absolute PatchouliPatchouli VanillaVanilla

Ratings

Scent

7.230 Ratings

Longevity

7.124 Ratings

Sillage

6.725 Ratings

Bottle

7.631 Ratings
Submitted by Chipsy, last update on 03.05.2020.

Interesting Facts

In 2011, this scent was only available at Anthropologie stores. In 2013, it was re-released.
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Reviews

8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Tessa

81 Reviews
Tessa
Tessa
Helpful Review    2  
Gorgeouse fruity rose.
This was the first perfume from Ineke and it got me hooked up from the first moment.
Very complex and warm and tempting at every step. More tempting than Paris by YSL and more friendly.
The cocoa absolte and the cinnamon round up this rose for all seasons.
8
Scent
10
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Happygeisha

34 Reviews
Happygeisha
Happygeisha
Helpful Review    3  
drunk on briar rose
briar rose is BEWITCHING. i've fallen deeply under its spell... i'm smelling tangy, tart green apple, red wine soaked roses and blackberries simmered over ... what is that? patchouli? stop just stop. OMGGGG... this scent is making me drunk, intoxicated. what kind of witchcraft is this Ineke? ! i may never recover (and i don't think i want to!!) ... this is like nothing i have ever smelt on my skin, who am i? who has this made me become? luscious, mysterious, someone different than who i was... does that makes sense??? this scent had literally changed me. *tears*
4
Scent
7.5
Longevity
10
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Drseid

818 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   3  
Une Rose Vermeille Has Decided To Haunt Me Again In The Form Of Briar Rose...
Briar Rose opens with a black raspberry fruit and nose tingling aldehyde combo, with just the faintest underlying hint of dewy rose that almost disappears for a short time before the rose reappears in the heart. The black raspberry and reemerged rose accord grows and grows as time passes becoming quite strong, as a very soapy shampoo-like undertone permeates the accord, remaining through the end of its development. Through the dry-down the linear rose and raspberry recede to a great degree but never completely disappear as the soapy undertone now takes on the starring role with the supporting fruity florals now coupling with just detectable patchouli late. Projection is outstanding and longevity is excellent, lasting over 12 hours on skin.

Briar Rose was a real disappointment for me. I bought the scent blind due to a positive comparison to my favorite fragrance Portrait of a Lady and I can at least see where one might make an initial comparison of the two due to the use of rose and raspberry in their respective compositions. That said, they smell nothing alike really and it is no contest at all with Portrait of a Lady winning "the battle of the fruity roses" in a walk. Briar Rose is actually much closer (very close indeed) to a scent I loathe by Andy Tauer called Une Rose Vermeille. The fruity rose combination here is quite watery, soapy and even a bit synthetic. I also do not get any of the gourmand and spicy facets the official notes list refers to. The scent projects like crazy and lasts plenty long, but performance is no good if the scent fails the initial and most important hurdle of smelling good, and like Une Rose Vermeille, Briar Rose fails that test for sure. I should also mention that while I feel comfortable wearing 90% of the rose scents on the market and do (whether they be targeted at men, women or unisex); this one does lean heavily to the "feminine" side of the spectrum and is tougher for me to feel comfortable wearing (though anyone can of course wear any scent). The bottom line is I wanted to like Briar Rose (especially as I now own it), but alas I really dislike this 2 star out of 5 scent that in the end is just an overpriced fruity rose shampoo. That said, if Une Rose Vermeille is your kind of scent then I would definitely recommend Briar Rose as a much less expensive alternative that almost certainly will satisfy fans of that one.
9
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
10
Bottle
Ysbrand

84 Reviews
Ysbrand
Ysbrand
Helpful Review    6  
The Brothers Grimm´s sleeping rose
"A large hedge of thorns soon grew round the palace, and every year it became higher and thicker; till at last the old palace was surrounded and hidden, so that not even the roof or the chimneys could be seen. But there went a report through all the land of the beautiful sleeping Briar Rose (for so the king’s daughter was called)..."

Ineke´s Briar Rose could easily transport me to a fairy tale and make me happy ever after. Rose is treated here in a very specific way, i mean, it doesn´t feel like one more rose, but instead there is a deep, thoughtful approach to the Sweet Briar (rosa rubiginosa/eglanteria)in a way that it creates an experience middle way between the botanical depiction and the poetry. I wonder if the rest of the Floral Curiosities have the same spirit and quality, and i am very looking forward to discover them.

The briar rose note is, then, the leit motiv of the fragance, but it experiences a brilliant evolution on my skin: it starts in the very floor of the woods and it ends in the fruit, rose-hips and blackberries (other rosacea for that matter)

So it opens with this rugged rose wrapped in a concoction of spices,very earthy patchouli,cocoa, and maybe some bitter oiliness from the almond, that creates an almost leatherish feeling. I guess it is the cardamom here, but I have a flashback to Déclaration d´un Soir, being Briar Rose more delectable in my opinion, with a more defined rose. They share certain sheer sensuality and a specific type of darkness (transparent, not thick) The rose-leather aspect in the beginning also recall the interesting Whips & Roses by Kerosene.

The rose note, so, appears vigorous and in shadows as it starts, fresh, natural smelling, with some green accents, like violet leaf. This is the woodland part.

"Now that very day the hundred years were ended; and as the prince came to the thicket he saw nothing but beautiful flowering shrubs, through which he went with ease, and they shut in after him as thick as ever." As fragance develops the thorny stems get fruitier and cheekier. Rose is so sensual and seductive. Add a tarty apple like note (apparently the foliage of briar rose smell alike apples), sweet violet nuances and, most important, a generous cluster of blackberries falling in between the five-petal roses, close to the sleeping beauty´s cheeks. Love is in the air. And it smells like it ends well.

The fruity rose character of Briar Rose has quite an above average longevity on my skin and a discreet-but-strong sillage if that makes any sense. Its sweetness and fruitiness is completely natural smelling, fresh and not flavour-type. I also see it as a shared rose fragance thanks to its rural character, specially its shadier early stages. Bottle worthy, in my opinion.
5 Replies
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Sherapop

1239 Reviews
Sherapop
Sherapop
Helpful Review    5  
Gorgeous Rich and Fruity Rose
Ineke Rühland is a fine perfumer, and she continues to produce new and natural-smelling compositions which dazzle me with their complexity and depth. BRIAR ROSE is a part of the Anthropologie collaborative launch of Floral Curiosities, and the focal floral in this perfume is, you guessed it: Briar Rose or rosa rubiginosa.

Something happened with the marketing of this fragrance, as it has been pulled from Anthropologie's shelves and can no longer be purchased even from the website. My theory is that whoever sent out the press materials on these delightful soliflores left out the floral note in the descriptions and hierarchies of all of them. Looking at the above notes (I've submitted a correction, but as of today, rose is not listed), one would conclude that this is barely even a floral perfume. It actually sounds pretty iffy:

Bitter almond, Exotic spices, Cocoa, Patchouli, Black raspberry, Black violet

"What?" a potential buyer might have thought before navigating away from the Anthropologie page (and this series cannot be purchased chez Ineke herself...). The same story for all of the other Floral Curiosities: POET'S JASMINE lists no jasmine; ANGEL's TRUMPET lists no Angel's trumpet, etc., etc. This mistake appears to have been repeated here at Parfumo because the pages already out there were used as the reference. The true reference, however, in my opinion, is the box, which clearly states these notes, and HRH Emperor Oliver is prepared to back me up on this (see below...):

rosa rubiginosa
black raspberry
green apple
bitter almond
cinnamon bark
clove buds
black cardamom
patchouli
viola odorata
vanilla infusion
cacao absolute

The rose is *BY FAR* the most important part of this line-up, but it is brilliantly complemented by all of these rich fruits and spices. I LOVE this juice, and when I saw it headed out the door at Anthropologie I snapped up a back-up bottle--at 50% off the already ridiculously low price of $68!!!! Unbelievable! Middle class perfumistas, you need to get your nose on Ineke's perfumes because they exhibit niche quality and creativity and smell totally natural, yet they cost less than mainstream designer "abstract" fragrances pumped out from industrial vats!!!!

So what, exactly, does this smell like? The closest comparison I can come up with is Annick Goutal QUEL AMOUR, but BRIAR ROSE smells much better because the rose is all rose, not geranium, and the epicurean spice blend adds an entirely new dimension to what might otherwise be just another fruity rose among dozens. This is one of the rare perfumes which I have loved every single time I've donned it, from day one up until today. While walking home from the library this evening I kept admiring the rich red wafts emanating from my skin.

Please bring this creation back, Ineke!
3 Replies

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