Anthracite pour l'Homme 1991 Eau de Toilette

Anthracite pour l'Homme (Eau de Toilette) by Jacomo
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8.3 / 1020 Ratings
Anthracite pour l'Homme (Eau de Toilette) is a popular perfume by Jacomo for men and was released in 1991. The scent is spicy-woody. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamotBergamot
GrapefruitGrapefruit
Green notesGreen notes
Sweet corn
MarjoramMarjoram
Heart Notes Heart NotesCyclamenCyclamen
CarnationCarnation
IrisIris
JasmineJasmine
LavenderLavender
Base Notes Base NotesAmberAmber
MossMoss
MuskMusk
SandalwoodSandalwood
Tonka beanTonka bean
CedarCedar

Ratings

Scent

8.320 Ratings

Longevity

6.818 Ratings

Sillage

6.518 Ratings

Bottle

6.425 Ratings
Submitted by Seglein, last update on 02.10.2021.
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Reviews

8
Scent
5
Longevity
7.5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Drseid

809 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
   1  
A Rollercoaster Ride With A Nice Payoff...
Anthracite pour l'Homme opens with a blast of aromatic lavender spiked bracing greens supported by bitter grapefruit. An odd slightly indolic jasmine led aromatic accord comprised of florals and herbs leads off the early heart development as it melds with powdery makeup-like iris and slightly sweet supporting sandalwood rising from the base. As the composition moves though its heart the awkward florals and powder dissipate though are still detectable, with the composition turning towards an oakmoss laced mix of slightly sweet and dry woods. During the late dry-down the early florals finally vacate as relatively dry amber mixes with slightly sweet sandalwood remnants through the finish. Projection is above average and longevity average at 7-9 hours on skin.

Anthracite pour l'Homme is a bit of an enigma... The aromatic open smells incredible, with the lavender and green accord providing quite the eye opener. After the open things get a bit weird and unsettling as the composition turns just a hair indolic with a jasmine-led floral accord that smells different than anything I have encountered to date, pairing with powdery iris. The combination is definitely strange and not particularly enjoyable. This stage represents somewhat of an inflection point, as the wearer wonders if this oddity is the beginning of what amounts to overall disappointment, or a potential turn around opportunity. Luckily for the wearer the latter scenario is the case, as the powder and indolic florals tone down to a whisper as a fine sandalwood and cedar duo moves in to take control with solid oakmoss support solidifying the turnaround. The late dry-down is a bit uneventful after the roller coaster middle, but the relatively dry amber led finish is quite pleasant, coming off very smooth as it melds perfectly with the remaining natural smelling sandalwood. The bottom line is the sadly discontinued $100 per 100ml bottle on the aftermarket Anthracite pour l'Homme really challenges the senses during its early mid-section, but its aromatic open and late heart seal its place in the winner circle, earning it an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a solid recommendation.
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
   1  
Harmonious Floral Fougère. Who's the audience?
What I get from Anthracite is a floral fougère with a bit of spicy fruit sweetness. Very nicely put-together, shows great evolution and has a coherent dry-down. I know that Luca Turin has referred to this as one of the artful late 80s-early 90s men’s fragrances that that were influential critically, but not commercial successes. Given the others similarly noted (Insensé, Heritage, Ténéré) I looked forward to trying Anthracite. While the florals here (mostly rose to me, but also something tropical, or is that the fruit?) are interesting for the fact that they eventually replace the lavender in the fougère accord, Anthracite falls into the category of harmonious fougères for me. I prefer starker, rougher fougères, so I don’t mean this as a compliment. When a fougère is blended to removed the sharp edges left by the collision of lavender and coumarin, it seems too restrained. Reserved in a way that might suit a chypre, but not a fougère .

Scorecard
Stark: Rive Gauche pour Homme, Azzaro pour Homme, Paco Rabanne pour Homme, PR Ténéré, and Caron's Troisième Homme (the last two stark despite their florals.)

Harmonious: YSL Jazz, Drakkar Noir (loud, yes, but focused on blend) and Anthracite.

I’ve left out Cool Water deliberately. Despite its identification as the iconic fresh, aromatic fougère, it just does’t seem like a fougère to my nose---its innovative water fruit vibe made it qualitatively something different from a fougère.

So where does this leave Anthracite? It’s got some of the fruit that Cool Water has. It’s got a non-lavender floral, like Ténéré. In execution of the fougère accord, it’s a little meek like Jazz. In some ways it’s similar to Givenchy’s Xeryus, a floral with a healthy nod to the fougère. But Xeryus’s use of florals and coumarin is much ballsier than Anthracite.

I could argue with myself here that Anthracite is in fact the best use of all the various elements I’ve mentioned above. It certainly is my bias that I want a rough ride from a fougère and I could just be blind to Anthracite’s charm. But both floral and fougère, Anthracite does seem cross-bred like a mule. Close enough for the parents to reproduce, but Anthracite is sterile and leaves us with no direct descendants. I guess I’m left undecided.

Perfume Classification by the Community


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