Jacomo de Jacomo opens with a hyper-black, hyper-dry fougère blend dusted with an intoxicating, overwhelming dose of dry and bold spices, notably cloves – pungent, harsh, almost rough. Really modern, if you ask me: the structure is of a classic masculine cologne (leather, patchouli, oak moss, woods, etc.), but this ultra-dry, black, spicy fog is pure “future baroque” for me. A really creative variation on the theme. Can’t really describe the smell exactly, but it’s really pungent, sour, dry and as I said, quite harsh. Together with oak moss and leather it creates a threatening and austere feel, like crashing on the dusty arid soil of a black planet (any Sisters of Mercy fan out there?). Think of some dark powerhouses like Krizia Uomo, Krizia Moods, Smalto PH, just with a crazy dose of cloves. Then however, quite soon a bit of the charme fades away; after one hour or so, as the spices tone down, it emerges the bone-structure of Jacomo, which is a more conventional and softer “barbershop” scent: woody, herbal, mossy and soapy, still spicy, dry and dark but a bit more friendly, lighter and more wearable (but also slightly more dull in a way, as without that crazy initial blackness it becomes more close to just another “generic” barbershop scent like many others – still good and still different, just with a bit less of that “special” added value). Anyway: an austere, creative and shady take on the classic masculine scent, fascinating and quite ahead of its time for sure, well crafted and a must for any “gloomy fougères” enthusiast.