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Ecce Bogart or: How to perfume with the hammer
And once again thanks and bows to the community: Without Parfumo.de, Mr. Teste would hardly ever have come across the fragrances of this Parisian fragrance factory, which also produces the similarly muscular Lapidus fragrances.
After the beautiful green-spicy classic Bogart Man first moved in to round off the collection of retro, green-soapy fragrances, he was soon followed by the original One Man Show. The two old bullies are seldom used, but especially in early spring, their pot-like natural herbaceousness fit into the landscape quite nicely.
What the perfumers Rainbow and Minigolf felt down here and put into words, the Gold Edition of One Man Show now also got involved. And already his performance is powerful, even if rather diffuse: dark fruity, yes, apples, but not sweet ones, but already at the beginning slightly musty. If there's mandarin in this show, it's certainly not a brightly shining one like the Aqua Allegory Mandarine Basilic or the 4711 Mandarine Kardamon. Bogart Gold offers dark red-golden fruitiness (with the transition to brown tones)
I have to think of Friedrich Schiller, who, as the motor for writing, stored rotting apples in his desk drawer. Their scent inspired him! If the old Swabian had used the Boss apples from Metzingen back then, the wonderfully steep aphorisms in Don Carlos and Wallenstein might not have happened. Had he been able to get the Bogart Gold Edition in Weimar: maybe he would have delighted us with perfect choral tragedies or even better: with comedies?
Because this fragrance is more oblique than classically elegant. It is powerful and long lasting. In my nose it has a strange mixture of light sweetness, irritating and irritating mustiness and deep earthiness. Probably this results from apples, then cinnamon-lavender. And the whole thing rests on a strange amber-labdanum base. On the handkerchief it easily lasts for 2 days and delivers there similar dark earthy echoes like Hechter's Caractère or Arrogance Homme, while the Original One Man Show stays somehow greener even on the long distance.
These Bogarts have something, but they are not very easy to use in company, as they seem to me more like hearty home cooking than an engraved French menu. Bogart is not Guerlain, but in its own way it is a French, popular fragrance heritage: more Parisian East than 5th arrondissement. The Bogarts probably use large calibres, measuring cups instead of pipettes when mixing; the same applies to the Lapidus grenades I know of. And these are by no means bad scents. They seem to me to be more interesting than many weak new releases.
Their areas of application are not easy to define.
The best way to wear the golden one-man-band is to wear it on your own or in a somehow already strongly scented environment: smoky barbecues, gardening, so that the neighbours behind the hedge get a scented greeting, maybe with animals in nature... On building sites rather than in offices or seminar rooms. Maybe also at loud outdoor summer events?
Or just now, in the confinement, in rainy weather after many sunny early spring days, at your own desk.