Mister by Jasper Conran
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6.1 / 1024 Ratings
Mister is a perfume by Jasper Conran for men and was released in 2007. The scent is spicy-woody. It was last marketed by Fragrance Factory.
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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBasilBasil MugwortMugwort DavanaDavana GeraniumGeranium
Heart Notes Heart NotesWoodsWoods PatchouliPatchouli Tonka beanTonka bean
Base Notes Base NotesMuskMusk TobaccoTobacco

Ratings

Scent

6.124 Ratings

Longevity

6.019 Ratings

Sillage

5.314 Ratings

Bottle

6.723 Ratings
Submitted by DirkDS, last update on 05.03.2022.
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Reviews

8
Scent
5
Longevity
5
Sillage
7.5
Bottle
Drseid

818 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review    2  
Eat This Tom Ford...
Mister opens with a slightly bitter vermouth-like wormwood. As the composition quickly moves to its early heart, a moderately sweet tonka bean infused soft, deep pipe-tobacco-like patchouli takes the fore as star with a controlled vague synthetic woody undertone. During the late dry-down, the pipe tobacco-like patchouli nearly vacates, as an amber-like soft musk takes over as primary star with underlying natural smelling vague dry woods as co-star through the finish. Projection is slightly above average and longevity average at 8-9 hours on skin.

What a pleasant surprise Mister is. The composition was released in 2007, but after sniffing it I would have sworn it was out of the late 80s or perhaps early 90s. It is extremely rare for a designer release from relative present day to feature patchouli in such a prominent starring role, but that is exactly what Mister does. Equally impressive is the extremely deft use of norlimbanol by the perfumer to approximate a vague woody undertone as support for the deep pipe tobacco-like tonka bean sweetened patchouli. I know I have derided the ingredient's use in my last couple reviews and many times previously, but in Mister it just works. It takes some serious skill to tamp down the woody synthetics to get just the right balance with the patchouli, and in Mister the unfortunately undisclosed perfumer wholly succeeds where so many others have miserably failed. Also successful is the perfect level of tonka bean derived sweetness that infuses the soft, pipe tobacco-like aromatic patchouli. Up through this point there are a lot of similarities to the much later released Patchouli Absolu by Tom Ford for his exclusive Private Blend line, but Mister smells superior to my nose. Unfortunately, the late dry-down is not as interesting as the open and mid-section, turning into a somewhat mundane though highly competent dry natural woody affair with an amber-like soft musk facet. It was probably too much to ask for the late dry-down to be as good as the first two thirds of the composition's development, but at the end of the day, praising Mister is quite easy, as the perfumer generally has brought the end of the great 80's to the next millennium in fine fashion. The bottom line is the discontinued $99 per 100ml bottle on the aftermarket Mister is a fine, risky example of a relatively recent mainstream designer release with heart, created by a perfumer with serious skill, earning an "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 rating and a very strong recommendation to both soft patchouli composition lovers and/or folks who enjoyed Tom Ford's Patchouli Absolu but balked at its price or found its synthetic woods a bit too much.
8
Scent
7.5
Longevity
Apicius

220 Reviews
Apicius
Apicius
Helpful Review    9  
A Rare Aromatic
Perfumes are described by fragrance notes, and these notes usually give the impression that the oils and distillates incorporated are "all natural". Of course, the more advanced perfume consumer knows that modern perfumery would not have been possible without the achievements of the aromachemical industry. Yet, it would be highly unromantic if the smell of perfume was described by abstract or technical terms instead of natural odours.

However, the usual way of describing a fragrance fails if an aromachemical compound has an odour of its own, one that does not easily resemble the fragrance of certain flowers, woods, or resins. This dilemma very much applies to the popular Terre d'Hermès and all ist successors. Its aromatic base is usually refered to as cedar and vetiver in the note pyramids although IMHO it has no resemblance to neither of them.

Whereas many perfume lovers know and appreciate that specific woody-aromatic smell they are not aware of another odour: less well-known, not so tart as in TdH but just as woody-aromatic and with a specific kind of boozyness. As far as I can see, Jasper Conran's Mister was the first gents' cologne where this note plays a leading role. It was released one year after the famous Hermès fragrance. I dare say it shares the same nature and presumably has targeted the same audience: men who are predisposed to a more straightforward perception of scent, and thus are amenable for purism in perfumery.

With Jasper Conran's Mister, we are beyond the concept of the aromatic fougères of former decades. Yet, I would regard Mister as an aromatic fougère in the best sense. Its booziness is woody and - well - aromatic, and on top there is a blend of tart herbal notes strong enough to justify the fougere label. There seem to be no citruses involved for the top note but I smell a certain sharp fruitiness that lets me think of pineapple. The fragrance does not change much during its development.

Just as the basic compound of TdH has been used widely by now, the central note of Mister seems to have inspired other perfumers as well but not many. We have a small group of gents' colognes exploring this specific booziness. At first, there is Lubin's Itasca. With a less dark herbaceousness than Mister it gained lots of attention by Parfumo users when it came out, including the ladies. Then the Greek brand Kings & Queens used it together with musky notes in their budget fragrance King Solomon. But that's about it. I think I have found traces of this note in other perfumes (i.e. Jewel for Him by Micallef, maybe also Royal Vintage) but never again as the main focus.

So, two notes of the same kind available at the same time but only one became popular. I have to admit the prospect of smelling "boozy" is a bit off-putting. Yet, I think Mister's central note deserves to be explored further by skilled perfumers. At the moment, only the Lubin fragrance is still in production but leftover stock of Mister is still available on the net.

I suppose Mister will not appeal to everybody so I cannot generally recommend a blind buy. But if you are familiar with Itasca and want more of that kind you should buy now.
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