Collection Homme - Thé Brun 2005

Collection Homme - Thé Brun by Jean-Charles Brosseau
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7.0 / 1023 Ratings
Collection Homme - Thé Brun is a perfume by Jean-Charles Brosseau for men and was released in 2005. The scent is spicy-smoky. It is still available to purchase.
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Perfumer

Pierre Bourdon

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamotBergamot
PineapplePineapple
MelonMelon
CinnamonCinnamon
CardamomCardamom
Green leavesGreen leaves
Ozonic notesOzonic notes
Heart Notes Heart NotesJasmineJasmine
LavenderLavender
Orange blossomOrange blossom
VioletViolet
Lily of the valleyLily of the valley
Base Notes Base NotesIrisIris
VetiverVetiver
SandalwoodSandalwood
RosewoodRosewood
OakmossOakmoss
CuminCumin
Lapsang Souchong teaLapsang Souchong tea
Powdery notesPowdery notes
AmberAmber
VanillaVanilla
MuskMusk

Ratings

Scent

7.023 Ratings

Longevity

6.619 Ratings

Sillage

5.319 Ratings

Bottle

6.420 Ratings
Submitted by Lissy, last update on 28.07.2020.
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Reviews

5.5
Scent
8
Longevity
6
Sillage
6
Bottle
Rquill67

198 Reviews
Rquill67
Rquill67
   0  
Rice, tea, play-dough and barbershop!
The opening smells like fresh play-dough, putty or rice (yet there is no rice mentioned in the notes). Definitely aromatic, warm, fresh, spicy and green. The tea in this fragrance is well blended. Nothing designer or cheap smelling about this fragrance in the dry-down. It is fresh, spicy, green and a classic barbershop fragrance. This was a blind-buy for me, and unfortunately barbershop fragrances don't do well on my skin. If I had to compare this to any fragrance on the market, I would compare it to L'Anarchiste from Caron, but a more palatable, toned-down, less oily and I would say superior more wearable fragrance. 7 / 10 for me!
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
Helpful Review    1  
Exotic oddity!
What an odd scent this is. At first, Thé Brun smells actually quite as a faithful, vibrant, extremely pleasant representation of some traditional Chinese tea (I thought of the Oolong, too). Genuine dark brown leaves out of the bag. Quite a complex and really vivid structure of earthy, pungent, dry nuances blended with an uplifting fruity-herbal-balsamic heart and some really mild sweet-vanillic-floral nuances. Now, the odd part is that to my nose there’s at least two other major accords which smell at the same time perfect, and completely random; a really bold, fairly cheap and almost acrid sort of musk-hedione base (sort of a damp, grassy, slightly milky and extremely musky accord with a hint of pungent fruitiness) and a greyish, ashy-rubbery note, quite synthetic as well, the same exact kind of ashy-mossy rubberiness found in Bulgari Black, or in several works by Rasquinet (notably the MiN NY line, or Bois d’ascèse). It’s a dark grey, dusty, salty yet slightly camphorous feel similar to ambergris (on fire) which for some reasons, goes just perfectly with the brighter earthy-herbal tea heart of the fragrance and the sort of “lactonic” musky-green accord - which is quite bold as well, with also nuances of tarragon and bamboo (and some woods too, but I can’t detect them in detail). I know it may be hard to imagine how Thé Brun smells overall, and in fact it’s quite a unique and complex blend – not necessarily a good thing (but well, it kind of is here).

So basically, for me Thé Brun smells initially and for quite a while, like a sort of intricated hybrid between something like O de Lancome pour Homme and something like Bulgari Black, both gravitating around a grey-brownish balsamic heart of woody-earthy dry tea leaves. Quite fascinating overall, honestly a bit screechy but for some reasons, with a really peculiar and overall fascinating feel of “something smells wrong, but I can’t stop sniffing it” (most surely it’s the fruity nuances meeting the rubbery-ashy ones causing that). It feels like a bizarre mosaic of diverse inspirations – the archaic heritage of Oriental tea, the smell of a moldy grass field under the rain, and a whole range of artificial smells of rubber, ash, dirt, damp wood, wet concrete. So well, now that I think of it, it may make sense to connect these inspirations and imagine a shabby suburban teahouse in some desolated Chinese metropolitan district. Somewhere you can still drink an excellent cup of tea, just not in a postcard setting, but rather sitting in front of a crippled window looking at uncultivated grass bushes erupting out of an abandoned parking lot. I’m not entirely sure whether Brosseau wanted to evoke such a forlorn post-communist atmosphere, but it’s still better than the usual Oriental clichés in perfumery.

Anyway, back to the actual smell: pretty linear for a while, until the grassy-herbal-tea heart progressively vanishes and on the other hand, the ashy-musky base becomes warmer, gentler, in a way absorbing the top notes as if the whole tea-herbal stuff evolves and disappears as a result of an “infusion” among the base notes. At this time some of the screechy “oddness” is gone, and Thé Brun gets surprisingly refined and soothing, with a discreet smoky-musky presence with a sprinkle of amber yet still a bit grassy and balsamic, lasting quite long and projecting just fine.

I’m not entirely sold, but this is surely quite worthy a sniff.

7-7,5/10

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