L'Étoile et le Papillon 2016

L'Étoile et le Papillon by Jean-Michel Duriez
Bottle Design Pierre Dinand
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7.9 / 10 25 Ratings
L'Étoile et le Papillon is a popular perfume by Jean-Michel Duriez for women and men and was released in 2016. The scent is floral-powdery. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Floral
Powdery
Sweet
Woody
Oriental

Fragrance Notes

New Caledonian sandalwoodNew Caledonian sandalwood PatchouliPatchouli Texas cedarTexas cedar Turkish roseTurkish rose LichenLichen Ylang-ylangYlang-ylang

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.925 Ratings
Longevity
7.223 Ratings
Sillage
6.623 Ratings
Bottle
7.521 Ratings
Submitted by CPL, last update on 29.12.2019.

Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
7
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Serenissima

608 Reviews
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Serenissima
Serenissima
Top Review 12  
instead of shooting stars
Yatagan wrote a very harmonious introduction to the world of fragrances of Jean-Michel Duriez, whose assortment landed with me to my surprise and great joy.
I thank Turandot very much for it and am naturally curious, what I will discover everything.

Yesterday a shooting star night was announced: how nice!
Every year I'm looking forward to the perseid fireworks that flash across the sky, and every year a layer of cloud falls in front of it.
The previous and following nights can be so clear that every little star and pimple on the moon's face seems clearly recognizable.
In the shooting star nights the cloud curtain is drawn - at least with us.

Out of defiance I thought: "If there are no shooting stars, then at least one star is needed" and reached for "L'Etoilé et le Papillon".
The night sky opened already after the first skin contact - wide, dark, transparent and surprisingly cool.
So clear is this scent course that this special star cannot get lost at all.
Moss-covered soils give themselves over to a rich patchouli fragrance, which glows earthy and golden brown and caresses a wonderfully clear rose fragrance: ripe, calm, dark earth and delicate rose aroma - how simple and yet enchanting is that then?
From the grey green to the golden shiny brown to the delicate rosé - a magic of colour and fragrance is created here.
With clear lines, with me without powder, without shadows and without frills: a special kind of scent purism and tenderness!
Bright vanilla ylang-ylang shines brightly around the fragrance work of art before the spicy cedar - just as unaffected as its companions - harmoniously surrounds it.
I also perceive the amber veil, which is mentioned in the documents for the fragrance sample.
("I wrapped their union with a light veil of white amber." O-tone Jean-Michel Duriez)
Only then is this beauty of the night completed and seduced to a journey into eternity.

"L'Etoilé et le Papillon" remains clear and distinctly cool: the magic of a wide sky, the infinity of the night was captured in this fragrance.
This star shines all night long; still in the morning it is friendly and unobtrusive.
It is beautiful, this night sky - like a deep dark blue silk cloth that envelops in a fragrant fragrance.

And the butterfly?
Our butterfly staggers over the blooming roses, a little bit sleepy already: it atomizes fine rosy and vanilla pregnant scent swaths and creates a very special magic.
Years ago a program of the dream theatre Salomé was called "The Magic of Butterflies".
Here it is, this spell!
6 Comments
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
8.5
Scent
Yatagan

80 Reviews
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Yatagan
Yatagan
Top Review 43  
Restrained approach
Uncommented fragrances No. 130

No comment, no owner, only a few users* who have the fragrance on their wish or watch list, but a big praise from Luca Turin? This is literally calling for a comment. Here he is.

After reading Luca Turin's second guide, I ordered some of the Duriez fragrances as mini-flacons. I don't go into my attitude to Luca Turin's criticisms any more here, because I have commented extensively on it in my blog.

First of all: None of the four fragrances I tested from Duriez landed on my wish list. But they fascinated me already. I'd have to find out why, but they've been standing on my desk for a few weeks now, waiting for further tests and have become anchored in my memory: L'Illusiomagist, Seine Amoureuse, Bleu Framboise and L'Étoile et le Papillon. The latter is now worth a comment to me.

It is often the simple concepts that turn fragrances into classics: Pour Un Homme by Caron is based on the tension between a herbaceous, fresh lavender head note and a vanilla base with amber accents. One could postulate that the heart note is missing and that the tension between the two poles is the attraction of the fragrance. Further examples for moments of tension as a concept of fragrances could be found (so many Fougère fragrances, the Chypre concept, Jicky / Mouchoir de Monsieur, oriental Vetivers: see my collection Vetiver d'Orient).

So it is here: There is actually no top note, in the heart Rose follows and almost at the same time the woody base with patchouli in the centre. By the way, according to Luca Turin, this is the concept behind all Duriez fragrances. They would basically consist only of a radiant base note. The head and heart notes are irrelevant - and this is quite deliberately in reversal of the sales concept currently favoured by the industry, which would be there: catchy head note baits buyers, heart doesn't matter (capitalism doesn't need a heart) and in the base note ambroxan (known from all common shower gels and triggers the homely recognition value of banal mass-produced goods: Chanel Bleu and its ilk).

The Patchouli-Rose combination, however, is as simple as it is ingenious and, with this fragrance (and more convincing than with other Duriez fragrances, by the way), leads to an approach that increases with each test. This is apparently also a characteristic of all Duriez fragrances: they appear inconspicuous at the first test, perhaps banal, but stick to all the senses, call for a new test and then anchor themselves in the limbic system
Otherwise, not much can be said about the fragrance: next to rose and patchouli, which is built into a lighter wood parquet, not much happens. It doesn't have to be, if it was combined as convincingly as here.

I wondered if there are comparable fragrances that combine rose and patchouli / wood in such a simple way. I don't come across any (at best those that combine both ingredients with numerous others). Maybe that's the big secret of this little, quiet, beautiful scent
31 Comments

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