Sublime (1992) Eau de Parfum

Sublime (Eau de Parfum) by Jean Patou
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Sublime (Eau de Parfum) is a popular perfume by Jean Patou for women and was released in 1992. The scent is floral-chypre. The longevity is above-average. It was last marketed by Designer Parfums.

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Perfumer

Jean Kerléo

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesBergamot, Green notes, Coriander, Mandarin
Heart Notes Heart NotesCarnation, Orris root, Jasmine, Lily, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Ylang-ylang
Base Notes Base NotesAmber, Oakmoss, Musk, Sandalwood, Styrax, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, Cedar, Civet

Ratings

Scent

8.4 (146 Ratings)

Longevity

8.2 (109 Ratings)

Sillage

7.7 (111 Ratings)

Bottle

8.5 (113 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 22.09.2019
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Reviews

jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Greatly helpful Review    6
'90s chypre
Somewhere in the ’90s the chypre fell off the radar. Blame the IFRA, blame Angel (also 1992), blame whoever you like. It went quietly from the pinnacle of chic to over-the-hill faster than you can say ‘mousse de chêne.’

Why and how to restrict perfume materials is a popular if confusing debate today, but in the 70s-90s the discussion of the hazards of aromachemicals and botanicals took place behind closed-doors. The general public didn’t know what went into perfumes in the first place or who made them, so discussions about restricting oakmoss or refining bergamot had little significance. They did have a stifling effect on perfume composition, though it might not have been readily apparent in 1992.

Chypre perfumes tend to have a strong presence and it’s easy to characterize the eras of the chypre. The ur-chypre by Coty and the seminal chypre by Guerlain, Mitsouko. The animalic chypres of the ’40s (eg. Miss Dior). The moonlit floral chypres of the ’50s (Jolie Madame.) The aldehydic and green chypres of the ’60s (Calèche and YSL Y ), the liberated chypres of the ’70s (Aromatics Elixir and Diorella) and the roaring rose chypres of the ’80s (La Nuit and Parfum de Peau).

But the chypre seemed to lose its identity in the ’90s. It was seen as both suffocating and passé when compared to the self-effacing new style of ’90s perfumes and their notes of air, water, light and apology. After the loud florals and orientals of the ’80s, modernity in perfume came to be synonymous with minimalism and the chypre became synonymous with old-fashioned. Traditional perfumes became outmoded and ‘classical’ perfumery started to seem like bad Hollywood Regency–stylistically overburdened yet without the saving grace of true kitsch.

The 1990s chypre-style, if there was one, played with the chypre’s affinity for fruit notes. YSL Yvresse (Champagne) 1992, Nina Ricci Deci Delà 1994 and Cartier So Pretty 1995 split the difference between the chypre and sweet fruity-florals of the day. Hybrids such as these aim for the best of both worlds. The risk is that they lack synergy and simply combine notes and materials from each genre. These three were famously successful but have been discontinued, I suppose pointing out another risk: that even a successful hybrid might not be popular enough to stay afloat.

Sublime has a finger in so many different pies that the term hybrid doesn’t quite capture it. Chypre? Oriental? Woody Floral? Yes, and then some. I think of it as a Resinous Woody Chypre. Cop-out? Sure, but it fits. It’s also fruity, floral and powdery. Powder over woods creates a sweet-tart dynamic similar to the vetiver-vanilla dissonance of Habanita, but in Sublime it is quieter, less stark. Mandarin and ylang ylang give Sublime a lusher feel than the expectable bergamot/white floral found in many chypres. It follows a long arc and the drydown takes its time arriving. Atypical for a ’90s perfume, the basenotes are the most complex part of the perfume. Resinous woods define the drydown–vetiver, patchouli, and especially sandalwood–but amber, musk and civet keep the woods from growing sharp. The pillow-soft drydown is classically proportioned and has the diaphanous depth of traditional woody orientals like Vol de Nuit and Bois des Isles.

Unfortunately it’s no surprise that Sublime sputtered and stalled. It wasn’t bad–not by a longshot–but it was seen as irrelevant when held to the growingly detached, hygienic aesthetic that would come to define the 1990s. Viewed on its own merits, Sublime is a history lesson on the genre by one of the 20th century’s strongest classicists and historians, Jean Kerléo. It is also urges speculation as to where the chypre genre might have gone if materials restriction hadn’t hobbled it.

Whether you like traditional chypres or not, if you’d like a tour through the history of French perfumery in a single bottle, try vintage Sublime. It illustrates the techniques and ideals of a century of perfumery and who better to conduct the tour than Kerléo, founder of Osmothèque?

from scenthurdle.com
1 Replies
7.5 7.5 7.5 7.0/10
K1

121 Reviews
K1
K1
4
Golden ylang ylang
The title is a hasty conclusion. I've been entirely occupied by this beauty. Many thanks to a dear friend from Bucharest who gave me the chance to try this magnificent perfume.

90's movies and motion pictures are identical by gold and hazel lights and colors, dreamy fades on edges of portraits and morning-sunshine-like lighting. Such a sexy, heart beeping, hope-giving picture right? You actually can see an example in the ad picture right beside the perfume picture here. So as the smells, 90's feminines are arranged by golden yellowish, calm and indoory vibes on top of which ylang-ylang is notorious!

Deep sweet animalic maquillage material smell, slightly freshened by bergamot. The heart but is on more waxy and sweetness from ylang and sandal which deliver assertive Indian mood. Very hippy and stony chypre. Many classic perfume with aldehyde are much stronger than Sublime but there's something in Sublime that keeps it exclusively for middle age. It's +25.

The base is vanillic and sweet floral with dried mossy vibe. Sublime is a straightforward feminine perfume, powerful and classy.
7.5/10
7.5 5.0 10.0 4.0/10
Seatonica

21 Reviews
Seatonica
Seatonica
Very helpful Review    3
Re-launched as a fruity floral
Is it just me, or has Sublime (originally a thing of complex beauty) been re-launched as a fruity floral with a hefty dose of pineapple?

Bletch.

Sorry - I don't know what else to say :(
3 Replies
10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0/10
Tessa

79 Reviews
Tessa
Tessa
1
There is no greater word!
The epithomy of beauty. I reach for it more than for Joy. If a scent can make you happy, try this one. Although it is considered a notch down from Joy on the perfume scale of knowledgeable perfume testers and "noses" , I have my own scale and this perfume went up to the "sublime" grading.
7.5 7.5 5.0 9.0/10
Drseid

671 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Very helpful Review    8
A Very Apropos Name...
*This is a review of vintage Sublime edp.

Sublime (vintage) opens with a gorgeous mandarin orange and sharp green bergamot tandem. As the fragrance enters its early heart the orange now joins potent carnation and ylang-ylang florals as co-stars with underlying rose support, as vanilla and oakmoss rising from the base add an underlying powdery sheen and tonka bean, amber and sandalwood mild sweetness. During the late dry-down the orange, ylang-ylang, powdery vanilla, amber and sandalwood all remain, as slightly animalic musk and well-integrated civet add balance. Projection is excellent and longevity average at 6-8 hours on skin.

Sublime (vintage) is everything one would expect from a composition with that name composed by legendary nose Jean Kerleo. It opens almost aldehyde-like with the mandarin and green bergamot before turning into a gigantic carnation driven floral that is an amalgamation of way too many notes and accords to list but balanced brilliantly in a way only a handful or two of master perfumers living or dead could even dream of accomplishing. The base notes play a big role in the composition early-on, with the oakmoss in particular featuring its powdery facets instead of the normal mossy green one usually expects. Finally, I would be remiss if I didn't mention that this is one of the best implementations of civet I have encountered (the other being vintage Monsieur de Givenchy) as it is extremely well-concealed and yet oh so effective in balancing out the complex composition. The bottom line is Sublime (vintage) will run you a minimum of $80 for a 100ml bottle on the aftermarket, but this Kerleo masterpiece is a composition that is well worth the investment and then some, earning an extremely strong rating of 4.5 stars out of 5 and my highest recommendation to all perfume lovers. Bravo Jean Kerleo!
10.0/10
Annasol

1 Review
Annasol
Annasol
Helpful Review    1
One of the best scents ever
Very beautiful perfume. One of the best I own. Very feminine and classical but beautifully made. It is a real pity this gem is not sold anymore or other perfumes made by Jean Kerleo. I first bought this as a mini and was immediately surprised by its grandeur. Very, very impressive. This could be my signature scent had I been earlier as it is for mature ladies but I still like to wear it from time to time
7.5 7.5 7.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Helpful Review    6
A golden beauty; really quite sublime
It's such a pity that Sublime no longer graces our shelves anymore. I managed to grab a lotion on sale a few months ago, but since then, Sublime and its body products are nowhere to be found.

This is such a rich, interesting fragrance. It's slightly spicy, but mostly floral with delicate, citrusy top notes. It smells classy and sophisticated, in some ways a little dated, yet very likable.

Luscious orange top notes blended with cinnamon and green nuances is what opens Sublime. Surprisingly this fragrance smells quite clean and refreshing. As the orange settles, jasmine, carnation and ylang ylang provide a sweet, feminine bouquet.

The drydown is quite possibly my favourite part, with civet, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver ending the fragrance with a big bang. It's quite animalistic and raw. I find Sublime very sexy in a strange kind of a way.

The sillage is incredibly powerful. One could easily mistake this fragrance for being a big powerhouse from the 70's and 80's. I love the ever changing composition which goes from sweet and charming to bitter and bold in an instant.

For me, Sublime takes me back to the days when I would play under our orange tree in the back yard, inhaling the green and salty aroma of an orange freshly picked from the tree. For that reason, Sublime captivates me.
3 Replies
7.5 7.0/10
Awesomeness

247 Reviews
Awesomeness
Awesomeness
Helpful Review    6
An everyday floriental
Wow, what a shape-shifter of a fragrance. I'm definitely liking this one ... and I don't consider myself a lover of florals or of Patou.

Sublime opens strong & very green to me, a phase that I truly enjoy. As it dries, I sense some incense (probably due to the combination of woody notes in the base), plus aldehydes & florals. The base is there and comes in & out during the wear -- vanilla, amber and sandalwood. As it dries, Sublime seems creamy & dreamy, classy but not stuffy. The ylang-ylang, orris and carnation are noticeable but don't dominate. Kind of ends on a whimper of its former self -- about 4 hours out it's a soft base.

I think Sublime is best characterized as a floriental. At the opening, it seems like it's a formal occasion fragrance. But Sublime tames quickly and easily, so it could be an everyday fragrance.

I've heard this is reformulated but I'm not sure what vintage that I have. I purchased a part bottle, EdP in 30ml, and given excellent condition without a box, I suspect it's relatively young. If you watch for it, it's possible to pick up a part bottle on ebay for well under $20.

Sublime reminds me of my beloved Van Cleef by VCA, plus a bit of Samsara. If truth be told, I prefer both Van Cleef & Samsara to Sublime. Even so, I have a feeling that Sublime is going to become one of my favorite fragrances because it is so easy to wear. I am now on the hunt for a vintage formulation.

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