Fleur du Mâle (2007)

Fleur du Mâle by Jean Paul Gaultier
Bottle Design: Jean Paul Gaultier
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Fleur du Mâle is a perfume by Jean Paul Gaultier for men and was released in 2007. The scent is floral-sweet. Projection and longevity are above-average. It was last marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International.

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Fragrance Notes

Top Notes Top NotesPetitgrain
Heart Notes Heart NotesNeroli, Orange blossom
Base Notes Base NotesBasil, Chamomile, Coumarin

Ratings

Scent

7.0 (331 Ratings)

Longevity

8.6 (227 Ratings)

Sillage

8.2 (209 Ratings)

Bottle

7.5 (221 Ratings)
Submitted by DonVanVliet, last update on 16.07.2019

Interesting Facts

The face of the advertising campaign is spanish model Andrés Velencoso.

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Reviews

5.0 10.0 9.0 4.5/10
Galahad

0 Reviews
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Galahad
Galahad
7
"Les Fleurs du Mal" - The flowers of evil
Charles Baudelaire, one of France's most influential poets, titled his cycle of poems, which was important for the modern age of Western literature, "Les Fleurs du Mal" (The Flowers of Evil). As is so often the case in French, a letter determines a major change in semantics.
The fragrance creation of the French label Jean Paul Gaultier by Francis Kurkdjian, also a compatriot of Baudelaire, could well bear the lyrical title. Kurkdjian, the creator of the classical "Le Male", tried to perform a flowery and optically bright metamorphosis of the classic with this nimbler. In my opinion, the fragrance, which is no longer produced, has little in common with the title and the brilliant white appearance. Rather, a piano lacquered bottle would fit better here.
The fragrance, whose title directly evokes the literary association in me, unfolds a scent image that awakens a further, this time pictorial imagination with a figure of "Hamlet" in me. It is Shakespeare's Ophelia, the unhappy lover of the title hero, who drowns in a water surrounded by flowers. The original text is:

"A willow tree is leaning over the stream
And shows in the clear stream its grey foliage,
With which they fantastically wreathed wand
Of cockfoot, nettles, Maßlieb, cuckoo flowers.
...
Until their clothes, which were heavily drunk,
The poor child of her melodies
Drawn down to the muddy death."

The British artist John Everett Millais captured this scene on canvas - a masterpiece of pre-Raphaelite art. And this same picture already evoked the title of the fragrance for me. When I sprayed the scent on for the first time, I felt as if I stood next to Ophelia's water grave and smelled all those flowers that were transpiring around the slowly sinking water light.
Whoever has the painting in front of their eyes and wears the scent on their skin may be able to feel my connection to Baudelaire, Shakespeare and Millais. So strong an associative image has hardly ever been aroused by a fragrance.
This may also be due to the fact that I have perhaps never experienced such an indescribably strong and expansive scent as the aforementioned Fleur du Male, which actually becomes maliciously dominant with more than two sprayings. I can only confirm the floral note, which attributes his name to him, as well as the numerous descriptions, to a limited extent. As in the painting, for me the fragrance has an antiquated, somewhat stale and slightly musty note throughout, which always reminds me of an overripe splendour of flowers that have already fallen into biological decay. As strongly withered, already more dead than living flowers, so he smells the Fleur. Just as I imagine Ophelia's water grave of wet shore grass, aquatic plants and all the flowers around her. But also with the basic note of a being that is no longer among the living. The aesthetics of the dead, a motif that Baudelaire and later the Expressionists in Germany also took up, can be found in the Fleur. As fascinating as I feel the scent because of its unbelievable durability and projection, so repulsive are the scent wafts, which accompany you up to a day, after a short while, on me. Slight nausea, the smell of organic decay and a constant "Memento Mori" surround me when I wear it. Like a flower of evil! That's why I don't perceive any light scents like Neroli and Petitgrain or chamomile in the Fleur, but always have the image of an exotic giant flower in mind, which grows night-black and toxic in dark and humid places, such as in floodplains. Anything that approaches this flower cannot escape its spell.
The "Fleur du Male", a scented icon, which cannot deny "Le Male" to its ancestors in approaches, is simply unbearable for me. I don't know what the occasion is, nor could I define a type of carrier. It is an olfactory experience that took me into fantastic worlds and at the same time strongly deterred me, as I always felt slightly uncomfortable and surrounded by a breath of decay. He is a beast, he is terrifying, he demands a lot from his wearer and he is definitely not a "crowdpleaser". It has to leave my collection because it is not what I expect from a floral fragrance.
Instead of the man's flower, the Fleur has always been the flower of evil for me! As little as I can bear the mood of expressionism longer, I can carry this scent on my skin. The love between the fragrance and me failed just as dramatically as in Hamlet. I wanted to love him as much as I wanted to love Le Male. But the feelings that the fragrance aroused in me were morbid and so "Fleur du Male" became my Ophelia
2 Replies
7.0 6.0 6.0 7.0/10
Darkbeat

155 Reviews
Darkbeat
Darkbeat
Helpful Review    2
One of the best "Le Male" Flankers that I've tried
Up to now, the best "Le Male" flanker, has nothing to do with the mother fragrance, except for some reminiscences in the final drying, of Kurdjian-style musks, which are evidently inspired by the original, but nothing remarkable, could have been an independent perfume perfectly.

Its beginning is of a green and fresh nature, with a very realistic accord of petit grain and a touch of chamomile, which brings that bitter touch characteristic of the infusions, and enhances the output, offering us, the aroma of bitter orange leaves , in a facet little seen, fresh, sparkling, wild and very clear. Slowly, and above the aroma presented, emerges the fragrance of orange blossom, which, little by little, will take over the aroma, but not like the typical white flowers of orange, but as a floral aroma, clean, musky and with shades ajazminados and lactones, a precious aroma, more typical of the mixture of substances such as Hedione, Galaxalide or Nerolidol, than a orange blossom accord itself, although equally, a very beautiful fragrance. Few changes more I can appreciate on my skin, except that the musk, not listed, acquires something more presence in the last hours of the perfume.

The treatment of orange blossom, in this perfume, reminded me at times to Joop! Homme, and have nothing to do with each other, but if it is true that it seems, that the orange blossom chords used in both fragrances, have to have some element in common, because the memory is present, although it is not easy to recognize.

A beautiful and strange perfume, unconventional, and, therefore, not suitable for everyone. In that aspect, I understand its descatalogación, it is not a perfume of massive sales, which is what is sought nowadays, and therefore nothing interesting for the managers of these usurious companies.

As for performance, at least on my skin, it is not as extraordinary as it is said, good longevity and moderate wake, which is not bad at all. The use, I see it more appropriate for warm and temperate climates and indifferently to dress it both day and night, I do not see many drawbacks in that regard.

It is a very beautiful and original aroma, but I also do not see that the hype created around it is very realistic.

Sorry for my bad english.
K1

121 Reviews
K1
K1
Helpful Review    1
Powdery blossom and musk
Punchy, vibrant, and type of "hey I'm here" perfume! Opens with deeply overripe orange blossom. It is late spring, the blossoms are falling down and leave the smell dot of fruit behind. The ground is covered with mesmerizing white blossoms. Decay is set in. They are about to spoil and the smell is turning rotten and chemical. This is the neroli used in this fragrance.
I'm disappointed by this opening and I've got bad compliments from this long-term opening. The stubbornly synthetic neroli fades away and chamomile and musk occupy the composition after an hour. At least the core is much better than the opening.
But what I concern much is why "gay" perfumes tend to expose out? Fleur du Mâle is a white powdery musky fougere fragrance with deep floral force.
4.5/10
JSpines

118 Reviews
JSpines
JSpines
Helpful Review    4
Fleur du Mâle
This is lovely. What a wonderful combination of masculine and feminine. I was so afraid that I wasn't going to like this. I was expecting something heavy and smothering. When I sprayed it on, what I picked up right away was a bitter "green" blast with something powdery. The initial blast settles down fast and slips into something that is somewhat of a contradiction in terms - bold yet soft. The star of the show here really is the orange blossom and it's done so well, mixing with the other notes flawlessly. I am not a huge fan of the original, over-exposed, Le Male. Something about it irritates me and turns my stomach. You can smell a little of the original in here at its base but it's understated and kept at bay when mixed with the other notes. Not every man will like this. In fact, I don't think the average man will. You have to be in touch with your feminine side and be comfortable in your own skin to pull it off. I only needed one spray and that sufficed nicely. I believe that this scent is best suited for the cooler weather. I can't see wearing this in hot weather. I think the heat might make it a little aggressive and obnoxious. Different and unique as far as men's cologne goes. A modern throwback! Head and shoulders above the original. A classic in its own right. Highly recommended for the self-assured, confident man!
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review    9
shocking
Looking back, Francis Kurkdjian’s Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male marks a time when Kurkdjian was pivoting his career from work for designer labels and the more rarified niche lines to his own line. Fleur du Male was released in 2007. 2009 saw the first perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

Designer, but with a twist, Fleur du Male Fleur du Male matches and surpasses the Gaultier brand which had beaten its enfant terrible schtick to death and by this time had become its own catch phrase. Kurkdjian breaths new life into a tired marque and gives Gaultier a perfume that speaks to his base while also attracting new buyers. Technically a flanker, Fleur was released 12 years after le Male, also by Kurkdjian for Gaultier. Matching the Gaultier sensibility, Fleur du Male is an effusive fragrance that speaks with waving hands and superlatives. Any lack of enthusiasm I have for the Gaultier’s brand in general, is sidelined by Fleur du Male. Daring and lovely, it’s a strong statement that breaths some beauty back into a dull mainstream masculine market.

The fougère makes it masculine, the huge orange blossom note makes it fey, the locker room sensibility makes it gay. It feels boisterous and affable, typical of the fougere genre. The enormous floral flourish ties in with a sweaty, steamy locker room vibe. The result is a fragrance tailored to the gym queen sensibility of the 1990s and early millennium. It feels as if it was intended to target a middle-aged gay set who remember the 1990s nostalgically as a time when gyms were the new bars, steroids surpassed poppers and the cruising took place in the showers showers more than the dimly lit bars of the previous decades.

The perfume bottle is recognizable from le Male and both are derived from the Schiaparelli Shocking bottle (1937 ). It is a sort of trophy, a nude Oscar, a robotically idealized male form in white. It's a nod to the clone look/life that fits hand-in-glove with gym queen-dom. It gives the impressions of some sort of fetish, in all senses of the word, at the same time that it looks like an insertable sex toy. Where it's easy to dismiss the cheap eroticism of the le Male bottle, the same shape has a new meaning in Fleur du Male. The white marble-like bottle, a young male nude in a standing pose, is a salute to the kouros. The perfume it contains, a musky, orange blossom fougère, is a nod to YSL Kouros, its predecessor. Nice touch.

Fleur du Male hints at some of Francis Kurkdjian's later work for his own line where woody, spicy and floral notes were used to bend traditional forms to convey more contemporary tastes. The allure of recognizable classical perfumery draws the wearer closer and then comes the twist, the surprise. It's a smart, successful use of the 'change from within' strategy, a that trend continues in Kurkdjian's own line.

from scenthurdle.com
10.0 10.0 10.0 4.0/10
Miaw2

339 Reviews
Miaw2
Miaw2
1
Heavy and sweet!
Flowers. Sweet flowers.

This should be called "Flowerbomb" instead of V&R's one.

Deep and sweet, tends to be more feminine.

Lasting power, sillage and projection are hazardously high. Thumbs up!

Updated January 2014
10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0/10
Coutureguru

223 Reviews
Coutureguru
Coutureguru
Very helpful Review    8
Pushing the envelope works!!
"Coumarin is a fragrant organic chemical compound in the benzopyrone chemical class, which is a colorless crystalline substance in its standard state. It is found naturally in many plants, notably in high concentration in the tonka bean, vanilla grass, sweet woodruff '(etc. etc ...)'.The name comes from a French word, coumarou, for the tonka bean. It has a sweet odor, readily recognised as the scent of new-mown hay, and has been used in perfumes since 1882." Paraphrased from Wikipedia.

I've been wondering of late whether the immediate acquisition of Fleur du Mâle upon its launch in 2007 has caused my growing interest in cologne-like fragrances. Quite possibly so, because if anything, this fragrance with its high levels of Petitgrain, Neroli and Orange Blossom could very well be a long lasting EDC, were it not for the addition of Coumarin in its base.
Fleur du Mâle is a sweet fragrance ... but not 'toothache inducing' sweet, more like walking through an orchard on a cloudy Spring day. A vanillic milkiness is quite evident here, exacerbated by a very fragrant Chamomile note drawing the mind in the direction of tea ... a steaming cup with a spoonful of demerera and a cloud of milk :) ... quite the desired effect of Coumarin! Without this note Fleur du Mâle would probably be just another 'orange flower water' ... its addition here is simply inspired!
Even the promotional material for this fragrance, featuring an extremely handsome man submerged in a tub of cloudy water scattered with white rose petals alludes to this milkiness ... a modern day Mark Anthony at his bath?
I personally find Fleur du Mâle to be a marvellous idea and I really enjoy wearing it too. Pushing the envelope by creating a floral fragrance directed at men is a great way to break down the social taboos of gender specific fragrances, imho. I've never been one for worrying about how a fragrance is marketed, I simply wear what I like. Wouldn't it be wonderful if one didn't have to choose? Fleur du Mâle has, in true Gaultier form, wonderful sillage and longevity. I get a good 8 to 10 hours from it with sincere compliments every time I wear it.

I find that the more I sample the work of M. Kurkdjian, the more I conclude that he is a genuine genius of the modern industry. A fragrance such as this should not only be something that comes out of a bottle ... it should be a lifestyle.
3 Replies
5.0 7.5 7.0/10
Missk

1165 Reviews
Missk
Missk
Very helpful Review    5
A floral masculine
Jean Paul Gaultier's Fleur de Male is aptly named, as this fragrance is quite flowery. But don't let the florals put you off guys, because this fragrance is quite sexy.

The composition is mostly soft, milky and soapy floral accords, with a hint of rich, citrusy orange blossom and aromatic herbs. Yes, it does smell a little feminine at times, but I found it more unisex than anything else.

I'm really enjoying it actually, when I thought that I wouldn't. I'm very finicky about men smelling like 'men', and although this fragrance is flowery, it gets my blood running in a way that I never expected. It's comforting yet seductive. Not a clubbing scent by any means, but one that helps put the wearer and his lady at ease.

Although clean smelling, the herbaceous notes add a hint of masculinity, which makes it a little rough around the edges. I placed a tester card of this fragrance under my man's nose earlier, and his observations were that it smelt like soap and brown sugar. Some days I think he has a better nose than myself.

I'll agree that Fleur du Male is a difficult scent to pull off, but for those men daring enough, I think it could smell very appealing. Well-dressed metrosexuals are more than likely going to be the perfect men to douse themselves in it and smell amazing at the same time.
10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0/10
MarkStar

7 Reviews
MarkStar
MarkStar
Very helpful Review    4
Fantastic stuff!
I live in hot & sunny Florida and while I own, wear, and love many "heavy" scents, every now and then I just need something light and summery (but still rich enough for my tastes) and this is where Fleur Du Male comes in. A clean, powdery, floral with great longetivity and sillage.

Is it kinda feminine and flowery? Well, I guess I can see how certain guys might have a problem wearing this, and that's OK for them.

As for me, I'm secure enough to wear what I like, when I like. And I like Fleur Du Male very much.
1 Replies

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