First, the bottle. The iconic but more sculpted and angular shape of a barechested torso compared to previous editions is the same already used for Le Mâle Essence de Parfum, here the bush is covered with a golden vine leaf. The juice inside is emerald green, so vicious, so luscious. The sailor Querelle from Brest is now Adam in the Garden of Gaultier. Subsequently, the perfume. If you have never smelt it, you will be pleasantly surprised because it smells completely different from the other Le Mâle flankers. Although Le Beau follows the trend of the 21st century, it doesn't even feel like any of its rivals.
Here and across the web, only three main notes are mentioned: bergamot, coconut, and tonka bean. However, I doubt they are the only notes present, and there is undoubtedly much more to Le Beau than the notes listed, let's see. This is heavy for cutting herbs like lavender, sage, perhaps patchouli. The iris root is most likely present since ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE is listed in the ingredients, and I perceive a powdery nuance.
The nutty-fresh coconut note is made very nicely and unabashedly likens the crispy wafer shell covered with coconut flakes of the Ferrero's Raffaello pralines. These fluffy, sweet candies combine sugar and coconut to heavenly effect. The sweetness and creaminess come from the velvety smooth cream inside. A pure pleasure that brings an unexpected touch of love and affection straightforward to your heart. The bergamot adds a right bit of powderiness and makes the opening so sensual, gourmand, enticing. Don't think of exotic suntan lotion or piña colada long drink smell. This is not the hot coconut milk by any means, this is coconut woods, which has the coconut vibe but woodier, darker, smoother, and creamier but bitter. The opening is deep, penetrating, intoxicating.
As it quiets down, at the heart, no orange blossom or spices like Le Mâle but rather a note of coconut wood in the background. Refined, not dominant yet still present, which inspires a profound desire to relax. As I anticipated, I surmise a bit of aromatic lavender and sage are present. More, there is a floral nuance in the heart, and I won't be surprised if a sweet floral rose-like or better geranium-like note is included. That floral accent is intertwined with a spicy emphasis, soothing, sweet, candy, like red hots cinnamon, which add a bit of spiciness without distracting from the main accords. Well, when I wrote that Le Beau doesn't smell like any other perfume, I was too hasty and told you a taradiddle. I catch a nuance that is present in Abercrombie & Fitch SoCal, the same coconut vibe, especially after half an hour or so.
The tonka here is sweet, but roasted, reminiscent of toffee, marzipan, vanillic, which gives it an aroma woodier and not akin to bubblegum. The more the dry down approaches, the more it turns woody. If you are familiar with modern amber interpretation, you will recognize a touch of synthetic amber in here. Not the overused ambroxan, but a rarer amberwood, which has less sweetness but more woodiness and muskiness respect to ambrox. After an hour, you are left with tonka sweetness and just a slight hint of coconut for another hour. After the two-hour mark, it's a pure skin scent, some bittersweetness that lasts another 2 hours on the skin. A dirty note lingers in the air, modern and leathery white patchouli presumably.
On my skin, the sillage and projection are moderate, a couple of hours before it turns into a skin scent, however, the longevity is excellent, several hours. The overall sweetness makes me reach for it during Spring and Fall seasons, a bit too light for Winter, but definitely too strong for Summer. I would rock it daily in leisure time, and nightly for clubbing, perhaps too risky for the office.
The review is based upon a 125ml bottle I own and received as a 2019 Xmas gift.
Stay well; stay healthy.