08/10/2022
Emrego
22 Reviews
Emrego
Very helpful Review
12
Quentin Bisch and Akigalawood again
Very good fragrance. Quentin Bisch continues to create formulas where Akigalawood becomes the star of the overall profile. Bois Imperial and Ganymede being the best in show, I can now put Kenzo Homme EDP 2022 as the designer/more reachable alternative to the former 2.
That patchouli note you see there, is Akigalawood. It is much more than just patchouli of course, it is synthesized from patchouli essential oil, but has a rich black pepper facet as well as a clean oud profile - very abstract note that many noses are not even used to it, it's a Givaudan captive, which means it is not widely used and offered only for Givaudan perfumers, which means Akigalawood makes a fragrance smell unique "today". In 10 years it can become public and we can experience it much more to the point that it becomes boring. So this EDP is one to enjoy today while it lasts. And it is very much enjoyable at that. Much more than the Intense EDT I think...
The EDP flanker is quite similar to the Intense EDT original, but differences are clear. The EDT has somewhat lactonic, somewhat green fig notes and a prominent Calone/Cascalone-like seawater-watermelon note. I always assumed it is Calypsone, which is a new generation aquatic ingredient, and safe to say some people perceive it as raw or rotten eggs, freshly washed dish/washer steam - that I also understand how that is perfectly making sense, knowing the seaweedy breeze on a humid day always made me think of raw eggs too. Safe to assume the seawater note in this EDP is also Calypsone, but not as prominent as the EDT.
The EDT also has a strange vibe, which I can only describe with a color - grey with blue shade. The EDP feels more refined, the leather and Akigalawood takes center stage, aquatic weirdness with fig note less prominent, hence the increased similarity to Ganymede and Bois Imperial.
So all in all, I liked the EDP much more than the EDT, it will smell unique to people who haven't smelled any other Akigalawood fragrances (which is, most people). Women who are familiar with Miu Miu - Miu Miu fragrance will definitely pick up the same black peppery patchouli spicyness.
That patchouli note you see there, is Akigalawood. It is much more than just patchouli of course, it is synthesized from patchouli essential oil, but has a rich black pepper facet as well as a clean oud profile - very abstract note that many noses are not even used to it, it's a Givaudan captive, which means it is not widely used and offered only for Givaudan perfumers, which means Akigalawood makes a fragrance smell unique "today". In 10 years it can become public and we can experience it much more to the point that it becomes boring. So this EDP is one to enjoy today while it lasts. And it is very much enjoyable at that. Much more than the Intense EDT I think...
The EDP flanker is quite similar to the Intense EDT original, but differences are clear. The EDT has somewhat lactonic, somewhat green fig notes and a prominent Calone/Cascalone-like seawater-watermelon note. I always assumed it is Calypsone, which is a new generation aquatic ingredient, and safe to say some people perceive it as raw or rotten eggs, freshly washed dish/washer steam - that I also understand how that is perfectly making sense, knowing the seaweedy breeze on a humid day always made me think of raw eggs too. Safe to assume the seawater note in this EDP is also Calypsone, but not as prominent as the EDT.
The EDT also has a strange vibe, which I can only describe with a color - grey with blue shade. The EDP feels more refined, the leather and Akigalawood takes center stage, aquatic weirdness with fig note less prominent, hence the increased similarity to Ganymede and Bois Imperial.
So all in all, I liked the EDP much more than the EDT, it will smell unique to people who haven't smelled any other Akigalawood fragrances (which is, most people). Women who are familiar with Miu Miu - Miu Miu fragrance will definitely pick up the same black peppery patchouli spicyness.
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