By a hint of the Salon Korianke a trace-proof sealed and neutrally labelled sample of this fragrance reached Commissario Odorato's nose. She immediately aroused his curiosity: The name of the little water: short, classically melodious. "Uomo" sounds Italian, "Krizia" less, but pretty, exotic and unknown to him until now.
The intermediate state of his immediately initiated investigations is as follows: Mandelli, Mariuccia (female, born 1925 in Bergamo, Italy) decided at the age of 29 to give up the profession of teacher and turn to the profession of fashion design. In the 50's the fashion label KRIZIA was created, which has existed until today. According to available documents it is said to have contributed significantly to the success of the Italian prête-à-porter fashion and in the 70's it helped the Hotpants to their breakthrough (here a glow appears in Odorato's eyes) as well as until today a certain animal is used as a signet for each year collection
According to statements Odorato thought rather incredible, the Mandelli used the name KRIZIA as an alias for her own person as well. As far as the meaning of the term is concerned, two theories could be identified: It is supposed to be the coseform of "Lucrezia" (Odorato annoyingly: "nonsense") and it is supposed to be an allusion to the Platonic dialogue "Kritias", because in it the vanity of women was thematized. The Commissario knows his Plato (at least superficially) and knows that in this late work of the philosopher the Kingdom of Atlantis is thematized, in which (as only today again) state and war business were equally a matter of men and women. This also makes the second theory appear doubtful. Moreover, the Italian title of the work "Crizia" is Latin C. A direct questioning of the Mandelli as a witness is impossible due to her death (see below).
Mandelli last took part in a Milan fashion show of its company in 2013. In 2014 she sold the flourishing company to "Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion & Co" to die in 2015. The Chinese company stands out not only for its name (Odorato: "Marisfrolg? Sounds like an orc from Middle-earth "slurping Häagen-Dasz"), but also because it is led by a fashion designer - Zhu Chongyun (after viewing the photographs sent by Interpol Peking): Again lights in the eyes of the Commissario).
As far as the brand's fragrances are concerned, Odorato has hitherto had to rely on the information of dubious police-known informants. It is safe to say that since the 1980s a number of works by not entirely unknown perfumers have appeared under the "KRIZIA" label. Whether it was a question of pure licensing or whether the fragrances were integrally integrated into the concept of the fashion company, there is still no reliable information available about this. Also the questions, which of the smells are still produced at all and how one can acquire them, wait for the time being still for the clarification.
It seems certain that some fragrances, according to Krazy Krizia and Krizia Uomo, are still offered on the market, that the prices of the fragrances are comparatively low (100 ml Krizia Uomo are offered from about 30 euros) and that the distribution channels seem less transparent. The company's website only shows fashion, which is why direct sales by KRIZIA cannot be proven. The investigation budget was not sufficient for a visit to the company's flagship stores (formerly Rome, Paris, London, now Shanghai and Tianjin, in addition to Milan). The large perfumery chains do not seem to list KRIZIA, so that the prospective customer must fall back on Internet distributors (good in business seems to be here in particular "dambiro").
KRIZIA UOMO EdT came onto the market in 1984 with some degree of certainty and is said to have been reformulated in 2012. Odorato found only one source for this. However, since there are (at least) two different flacon designs for the product on the Internet, it seems to be reliable.
Odorato's sensory analysis of the sample, which cannot be used to determine whether it was produced before or after 2012, reveals a striking and at the same time very unusual odour. The testimonies of Chnokfir, Couchlocks, Yatagans and Gahans as well as the available expert opinions of Dr. Minigolf and Prof. Leimbacher.
give a good impression in this respect
According to the Commissioner's supplementary assessment, the object under investigation is a thoroughly male artefact which is unwearable by women, although the fragrance also has a certain floral sweetness. In this respect, the unambiguous gender classification remains a decisionistically postulated axiom (Odorato dilettiert actually also philosophically). Despite all its striking virility, the fragrance is never loud or coarse, it remains supple and controlled.
The centre of the fragrance is undoubtedly the pine needle, which provides a persistent spicy-woody, fine tart, yet soft and non-citric impression of freshness. A comparison with flat "spruce needle freshness" à la foam bath does not seem appropriate to Odorato, the aroma is far too multi-faceted for that. The pine needle centre was accompanied by plausible (rather clear) woody and (very restrained) leathery notes. Clearly perceptible are harmoniously composed aldehydes and a bouquet of flowers, which do not change the male character. Overall, the fragrance impresses with its colour metaphor "light brown" and tactile "light and loose, airy and velvety".
The fine, round development of this fragrance impresses less by clearly defined phases than by gentle accent shifts. If the spruce-needle-wood-flower-aldehyde-leather-heart is turned at the beginning by (isolated not perceptible) citric notes and by herbs rather a little into the fine bitter and clear-crystalline, its softer, rounder, fuller and (still) somewhat sweeter notes would emerge at the end, under the influence of the base notes
Despite its low price, the fragrance appears valuable. Not only is it phenomenologically difficult to obtain, but it also appears rare and unusual, which makes its wearer stand out from the crowd (Odorato: "totally unsuitable for use in covert investigations").
Commissario Odorato would be grateful for pertinent information for further clarification of the case "Uomo, Krizia".
P.S.: We know that Signora Odorato noticed attachments of the forensic sample of the scent on her husband when he returned home from his investigation in the evening. She is said to have been so taken with it that she tried to persuade him to spray himself with the evidence contrary to regulations!