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En Voyage chez l'Artisan perfumer: 1 Timbuktu - between oasis and jungle.
I became aware of the house l'Artisan Parfumeur through longer activity in this forum, as well as Luca Turin's positive mention.
The house was founded in 1976, long before the "niche hype", with the aim of putting the craft back into the center of perfumery. To what extent this was only marketing or is still the case today, I am not able to judge. Here, too, the spirits are divided on Parfumo. In any case, the classic flacons with a golden cap, which are a suitable distinguishing feature of the brand, are a perfect match Apart from that, I think we are looking at Bertrand Duchaufour's masterpiece. He created Jubilation XXV as well as several other fragrances from L'Artisan Parfumeur.
The fragrance opens with a sweet and slushy note, which comes from the mango, but reminds me of poppy cake or marzipan. For some people, the mango seems overripe, fermented... comparable to the grapefruit of Terre d'Hermes. I smell sweet edible as well as unripe, hard and green mango. Pepper and cardamom are present, but never spicy, almost shyly they are content with their role as secondary actors. Similar things happen later on, vetiver takes its place alongside mango, incense, benzoin and myrrh appear thoughtful and unobtrusive. And this despite the fact that, as spicy, dry notes, they take up the fight against the wet, green, fruity components, which opponents might oppose.
The opposite is the case, they are given the long leash and that is what they want. So the green chords are louder, but every now and then they let the resins and spices take the stage. Thus an ensemble of jungle and oasis is created, of wicked and familiar. To fascinate beautifully, it takes me on a ride through the Orient and rainforest, savannah and steppe.
The fragrance can be classified neither exclusively in the modern nor in the classical direction, it has a little of both. Playful and fruity, but also tart - dry. It should be clear that this is not the highest form of enthusiasm from the outside. (I trace the comment; "you smell like grandfather's aftershave" back to vetiver)
Something similar I have never smelled (except for the drydown of Dzonghka) and I find that with increasing heat and sunshine it works just as well as in sultry weather.
Men over 25 can wear it, here I recommend a test to fans of Terre d'Hermes. It appeals to me very much, I smell incredible expressiveness. It smells more intellectual than Flirty, but not uninteresting
The Sillage is similarly weak as rated here, I would have wished for something more. But it should be clear that Timbuktu is not a banger. It acts as understatement, penetrance would destroy its appearance.
Thank you for reading my commentary and I plan to review more fragrances of the house in the future.