Mont de Narcisse (2018)

Mont de Narcisse by L'Artisan Parfumeur
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Mont de Narcisse is a new perfume by L'Artisan Parfumeur for women and men and was released in 2018. The scent is smoky-leathery. It is being marketed by Puig.

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Perfumer

Anne Flipo

Fragrance Notes

Bergamot, Pepper, Cardamom, French narcissus, Osmanthus, Vanilla bean, Immortelle

Ratings

Scent

7.7 (16 Ratings)

Longevity

7.2 (13 Ratings)

Sillage

6.5 (13 Ratings)

Bottle

7.6 (21 Ratings)
Submitted by Greifswald, last update on 14.02.2019
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Reviews

Bottle 8.0/10 Sillage 6.0/10 Longevity 7.0/10 Scent 8.0/10
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1
A form of aromatherapy?
A bit like a bouquet of flowers and herbs picked in summer and now dried from the forest on the hill, bound with a thick leather band. At the end almost only bulging leather. In the base note I subjectively perceive a kind of birch tar, even if it is not listed here. In the heart note and towards the end almost unpleasantly numbing - I have the suspicion that goes among other things back to the Immortelle. In general, during the first test I have the subliminal impression of smelling a kind of medicine - not that it necessarily smells like usual preparations, it is rather an almost unconscious attitude towards the perfume.
A consistently exciting fragrance that is worth exploring a little further - I have the suspicion that on different days it is noticeably perceived differently.
1 Replies
Bottle 8.0/10 Sillage 3.0/10 Longevity 7.0/10 Scent 7.5/10
1
Bulldozed Narcissus Hill
Mont de Narcisse opens with refreshing bergamot and transparent woody pepper, but soon turns darker with the addition of sweet tart, softly boozy and fleshly plums, and slightly smoky, phenolic birch.

These two opposite aspects are then quickly reconciled thanks to the appearance of the leather. Here, it's slightly rubbery, exhibits a hay-like nuance and a subtle saffron hint as well, but at same time evokes a supple, velvety texture, much like suede. The plum and birch feel like natural complements to the suede. Not only do their olfactory profile overlap, the contrast between the lusciousness of plum and the austere, dry, phenolic aspect of birch enriches the whole suede/leather effect.

The fragrance turns slightly more resinous and more suave in the dry down, thanks to the immortelle rounding it off with its adorable honeyed warmth and smokiness. The sillage is rather close, while the longevity is around 8 hours.

Throughout its development, Mont de Narcisse reminds me of Hermès Cuir d'Ange and Givenchy Cuir Blanc. The former, because the suede note in both fragrances are quite similar, but the suede in Mont de Narcisse is not seen through an ethereal veil of heliotrope nor is it adorned by flickers of cumin like in Cuir d'Ange. Instead, it feels darker and more lavish. Meanwhile, my reminder of Cuir Blanc is mostly due to that both open with lightweight pepper and fresh bergamot, then focus on a suede note. But again, Mont de Narcisse appears richer in layers thanks to the supporting trio of plum, birch and immortelle, while Cuir Blanc chooses white musk to create a cleaner, more luminous effect.

However, as much as I enjoy the overall suede fragrance that is Mont de Narcisse, I can't help but ask:

Where is the narcissus?

Sure, the narcissus might have played a role in summoning a hay-like aspect to the suede note, but it doesn't appear as a clearly defined note any time during the entirety of its development on my skin, at least not in a way that I'm more familiar with, of the enticing juxtaposition of horse, barnyard, hay, green sap and white flowers. Instead, Mont de Narcisse is a suede fragrance through and through. A very lovely one for sure, but for a fragrance whose name literally translates to "hill/mountain of narcissus", I feel a prominent suede fragrance is not what I signed up for.

As a result, I'd refrain from recommending Mont de Narcisse as a narcissus fragrance, but rather a slightly balsamic and suave modern fruity suede fragrance.

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